jerryy

@MARRIEDGUY9, Are you up for considering something entirely different? This image you posted really makes me think of Ansel Adams zone system approach for black and white photos as well as for toned photos such as platinum toning. I believe this one would make an excellent toned image (uh, but not sepia) if you wanted to concentrate on bringing out shadow detail without destroying the brighter highlights.

You should be able to use the Expodisc, except the procedure is slightly different than pulling an image from the card. These may help: https://fujifilm-x.com/en-gb/learning-centre/get-to-grips-with-custom-white-balance/ https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/gfx50s/menu_shooting/image_quality_setting/index.html#white_balance Scroll down to the custom white balance section for the second link.

I have one of those. I use it a lot for my camera lens based images. It is light, weight wise, which is good for travel/carrying, easy to use and works well. Hopefully, the weather will let you outdoors at night and you can have some fun. Right now, the Orion Constellation is readily visible with all of its nebulae and galaxy season (Spring) is coming. p.s. Coming up on March 13/14, 2025, is a Lunar eclipse: https://www.timeanddate.com/eclipse/lunar/2025-march-14

Manual settings all the way !!! 😎 😇

Welcome to the forum. That option got phased out a while back: https://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/50923-macro-mode-no-longer-an-option-after-firmware-update/ Check your firmware version to see which version your camera is using. The camera is supposed to automatically go in and out of macro mode.

NGC 2244 (Revisited Rosette). Testing some equipment... Back on Page Two of this thread, NGC 2244's posting has some closer-in and further-out views. This view is from a different setup at a different location. This is the equivalent of 56 minutes, 10 seconds of camera capturing exposures. And for your referencing pleasure: https://www.constellation-guide.com/rosette-nebula/ https://apod.nasa.gov/apod/ap210221.html

At The Cross Roads... The North Celestial Pole. Alpha UMi is the designation astronomers give Polaris. Although it does not seem to move if you casually watch it; from the watcher's perspective, Polaris does rotate 'round and round' the celestial pole, it just does it verrrry imperceptibly. There is a corresponding south celestial pole and Earth rotates around that polar line, making the stars in the sky seem to go in circles. 2 of 2.

That could be it! They are show-offs, very inquisitive critters. https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Northern_Mockingbird/id For what it is worth, there are several bird identification apps out there, such as: https://merlin.allaboutbirds.org The Audubon folks have some North American guides as well: https://www.audubon.org/birding/identifying-birds

Welcome to the forum. Hopefully, these may help: https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/stories/advanced-month-5-focusing-20-focus-bracketing/ https://youtu.be/gouqhCSVdAY

Guiding Light: This is the equivalent of 63 minutes, 40 seconds worth of exposure. Often used as a guide star for night travel or as a prop in stories, this is Polaris, part of Ursa Minor, the Little Bear. Currently the North Star, it sits up in the sky, seemingly one that never moves for folks in the Northern Hemisphere while the others arc around making circles in long-exposure star-trail photos. Currently, Seemingly, but that was/is not entirely true. https://www.constellation-guide.com/constellation-list/ursa-minor-constellation/ https://www.star-facts.com/polaris/ https://science.nasa.gov/solar-system/skywatching/what-is-the-north-star-and-how-do-you-find-it/ https://science.howstuffworks.com/north-star.htm 1 of 2.

There are a couple of things for you to consider. In terms of maybe accidentally changing the rear command dial : https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t50/menu_setup/button-dial_setting/ scroll down to the section for the command dial settings, you may have changed the default on the rear dial. Also, just below this is the section called S.S. OPERATION which also may affect what you are trying to do. Secondly, the shutter speed mode you are in affects the shutter speeds you can use. https://fujifilm-x.com/global/products/cameras/x-t50/specifications/ Scroll down to the section called Shutter Speed to see some options. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

I appreciate your excitement and enthusiasm and hope you have you have a wonderful and safe journey there and while there and then back home again. But slow down a bit and think about it some more. A XF200 mm f2 lens (which includes a 1.4 tc) is going for around US$ 5000. That one would be good for many settings there but … for considerably less money you can get fantastic zoom lenses giving far more photography options and put the leftover money into a big stack of memory cards, batteries and chargers, etc. and have cash leftover to tip your travel guides and enjoy the local cuisines. Landscapes with animals include things like elephant herds among the Baobab trees, cheetahs watching antelopes on the savanna, etc. I often use a 150-600mm for various projects. I can easily handhold it and get sharp steady shots, but after a while it goes back on the tripod to finish up. IBIS, etc. does not work well at longer focal lengths, so plan on being able to work when you are tired. That type of outdoor activity wears your lens holding arm.

You are probably going to need to add in some more information before anyone can begin to help you. Information such as 'how much budget are you using to purchase lens equipment and does that include all of the other camera related gear you will also need', 'what kind of tours are you intending to take part in -- strictly herd animals or more isolated opportunistic critter viewing', 'are you going for landscapes with animals or animal portraits', etc.

For some reason, Fujifilm limits the electronic shutter to 1 second exposures in bulb mode. If you want longer electronic shutter exposures, switch the shutter speed to t mode and set longer times. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Uh hmm. I guess I may have more bad news, USB C power delivery did not come out until much later after the X-T1 was released, I do not think it will work for you (actually I do not think you can charge the camera via USB at all, you need to put the batter(ies) in the external charger to refill them with juice. Your power grip may have the PD capability, but please check the specs sheet and make sure it does. PD can push out amps at 20 volts, if the equipment took any short cuts in the safety regs, it could damage things. Your new camera is very good, but does not use the latest tech as nicely as we might wish for.

I do not think there is a regular fix of the kind you probably are hoping to read about. There are/were battery grips folks could install that held an extra battery (Fujifilm’s part number is VG-XT1). Third party versions of the grip are still bring sold. If you look around you may be able to find one with a battery door cover that works as you are hoping. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Did you ever find out what kind of bird this one is? It is beautifully posed, almost as if it practices for photographers.

Trees Tunnel.

One month later (January 3, 2025) ... … Venus and Waxing Moon are still playing tag.

Welcome to the forum. This issue shows up now and then, some folks are able to find a solution and some are not Try a different lens (your local camera store may be willing to help you if you do not have a spare). Get some quick drying electrical contact cleaner, spray some on a cloth and wipe the contacts on the lens and body a few times and let both dry for an hour or so before before reattaching the lens to the body. Do not get any of the cleaner any where other than the contacts though or you might bring on an entirely different issue, A long time ago, folks would use the eraser on pencils to clean contacts, but it is easy to slip and push the pencil in where it should not go. If these approaches do not work, you may need to see how much the estimate will be for the cost to repair it and go from there.

The Bridal Veil... A long time ago, a big 'ol star near the Cygnus Constellation got very down-sized by collapsing in on itself. But things went too far, so much too far that it turned into a super-nova and the remains of that were discovered by William Herschel in 1784. This one goes by several names, the Cygnus Loop, the Filamentary Nebula, the Bridal Veil Nebula or just the Veil Nebula among other names. Then astronomers started giving names to the parts they could see and we have, today, three main named parts. The Western Veil Nebula, also known as the Witches Broom Nebula -- NGC 6960, the Eastern Veil Nebula -- NGC 6992 and some of the middle part called Pickering's Triangle also known as Fleming's Triangle. (Williamina Fleming discovered it and named it after the director of the observatory she used to find it. It does not have a NGC number because she discovered it after that catalog was published.) https://www.constellation-guide.com/veil-nebula/ https://hubblesite.org/contents/media/images/2015/29/3620-Image.html https://www.nasa.gov/image-article/cygnus-loop-nebula/ This one is not too hard to find and see in telescopes in moderately dark skies. Just look for the Swan up in the sky and start from there. This is the equivalent of a few moments more than 32 minutes of exposure.

December 21, 2024, Winter Solstice Day. Locally, winter is unpacking the sled and looking around for the best digs to stay a while. Those cool misty mornings and colorful landscapes are finished for this year.