Jürgen Heger

@Tikcus I share your pain. GAS is the only desease where I do not want to be healed of.☺

I would keep all of them. But if I had to decide I would probably sell the 16.

I guess when the Fuji representative speaks about glas he means the transparent material rather than the polished lens.

I am happy that I can be sure that whatever Fuji lens I buy it will give an excellent image quality. But a small zoom like the Panasonic 12-32/f3.5-5.6 would be nice. I do not know if it could be made with a decent image quality without sacrifying the size too much.

This is also what I do not understand, why RAWs are not posible when using the extended ISO settings. When someone pushes the sensor to its limits then RAW would deliver the best starting material for the processing steps. Yes, you can over oder under expose to get the same result, but the EVF does not give a proper preview of the exposure. Obviously Fuji came to the same conclusion when they designed the X-Pro2.

The sensor itself has only one ISO which is the base ISO. Some cameras adjust the analog amplification when the electrical charge is transferred from the sensor to the analog to digital converter. But most part of ISO adjustment is done by over or under exposure and compensation when the JPEGs are created. It does not matter if they are created internally or by a RAW converter. I remember that Rico/flysurfer wrote about ISOless sensors some time ago.

@binklewis To me the main difference between E1 and E2 is the AF speed especially in low light situations. The E2 has more or less thw same AF as the T1. So depending on your shooting style you have to spend the additional money for a used E2 over an E1 or you buy an E1 and have a good dinner with your friend. I personally bought recently a used E2, in fact it became a used E2s, to accompany my T1 and more or less replace my E1. But I will still use the E1 as second body with my Samyang 12mm f/2. As it is manual focus only the slow AF does not matter.

Petrol station near my house. One of my first shots with the X-T1. Almost SOOC, just a very small cropping.

I think the original poster did not want to discuss if jpegs are good enough or not. I think he would like to have a 16 bit Tiff file with Arcos simultation over the full range which allows him to push or pull by one or two stops in post processing and still preserving the Arcos look without the fear to get bending artefacts. Experts could now start a discussion if over or underexposing by one or two stops in post processing should not change the look at all or should give the look of a negative that was treated similar in the darkroom. But this is another discussuon.

@Metalkoi Welcome to the community of Fuji X shooters. What did you use before?

The tilt screen is more than a gimmik. It is really very helpful to find unusual points of view.

Luke I already wrote in another thread. So I just quote myself: "I have no experience with hand straps on Fuji myself. But the upright shutter release button of the Fuji make the use of hand straps less ergonomic than the more to the front tilted buttons of most other modern cameras. In fact, I remember that one manufacturer of hand straps gave this reason why he does not recommend his hand straps for Fuji X cameras."

I think the X-E1 is very usable at good light condition. For me the AF and focus peaking work very well. But unfortunately the low light/high ISO performance of the sensor is much better than the AF's one. So you are tempted to use the camera at very low light conditions which pushes the AF to its limits. Focus peaking is usable at low light but the EVF becomes very noisy.

Instead of fn buttons which bring me to a menu I would prefer more direct access switsches. Here comes into my mind a switch like the AF mode lever but switching between Single AF, Zone and Wide or a dial to select flash compensation directly. I tend to forget what function I programmed on what button. So fn buttons are not of much help for me. The only one I remember because I use it quite often is that the down button on the four way selector enables AF point selection.

I like #1

If it is a subsciption model with a yearly fee I defintely will not buy it.

I can confirm that Photo Ninja 1.3.3c supports the raws of the X-E2s. The version was published as pre-release on April 14th and seems to be a full release now without variations to the pre-release.

I have not checked in detail what PN does. But I remember that it said something like "correcting CA" when I opened a file of the X-E2s. I do not have a X-Pro2, but I see no reason why it should not do the same there. I do not know if PN does geometrical corrections.

It is the Photo Ninja 1.3.3c pre-release candidate that supports compressed X-Pro2 files and also the X-E2s among some other new cameras. This version us available since April 14th.

@quincy He can change zoom but the pictures are not sharp. See https://www.slrlounge.com/varifocal-vs-parfocal-lenses-what-you-need-to-know/ @spinneyhorse Would AF-C instead of AF-S help?

Sorry for nitpicking. Fuji claims +0.5 EV AF sensitivity in the release information of FW 4.0 for the T1. http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/x/xt1/history.html There seems to be no official information about the AF of the Pro 2. So 0.5 EV would be my best guess. Edit: Typo corrected.

I never understood why people are willing to pay more for a relic guitar than for the same guitar without dings and dongs. I am gifted with the talent to knock my gear around. So the dings and dongs come effortless after some time of use at no cost. I have no need to pay other people to do it for me This is also true for my cameras.

I would keep the 18-55 and add the 23/1.4. This is my general purpose two lens combo. The zoom covers all situations in day light. The 23 is my low light tool. The focal length of the 23 is a very good compromise to be used in most situations. I also love to use primes. I have the 18, the 23 and the 56 from Fuji, the 12/2 Samyang and a 85/1.8 Nikon. But sometimes a zoom is much more convenient than changing lenses every now and then. And I find more benefit in the OIS of the 18-55 then in the one stop more open aperture at the long end of the 16-55. The 2mm at the short end would be useful sometimes but they do not outweight the OIS, at least not for me.

Some of the corner softness seems to come from the digital correction of the distortion. lightpriority.net/2014/01/fuji-18mm-f2-r-review So if you need to get the best corner sharpness make sure to use a RAW converter where you can switch off the distortion correction.

I agree with Jackalikzed and his verdict and I like the "pixelpeeping armchair-testchart-brickwall-photographers".