Tom H.

I only use Cura Lens Cleaner and Wipes.

Thanks :-) our first, little Elise, born October 4th.

Currently day 3 in the maternity ward. Taken 390 shots so far, still on half battery. But I don't chimp, no image review and I usually dial in my settings before I switch on the camera. I did create some jpegs using the built in raw converter and transfer them via WiFi. Same results as I would get with my X-T1.

Mine sounds even worse.

My APD moans like a rusty lawnmower, so sadly yes, I guess it's normal ;-)

I charge all my USB micro powered devices with whatever cable is around. Never had any issues.

Also, when shooting bursts, I'd definitely not bother with ettr anymore. You're much more likely to blow out some highlights somewhere, since Fujifilm still doesn't give us real time zebras...

I read that Rico recommends keeping the picture settings at highlights -2, shadows -2, together with the pro neg s profile. That should give you the closest to raw histogram.

Until the af-on button is a big easy push away, I'll pass on the whole back button focusing thing... I do like the current dpad now, avoids me inadvertently pushing it.

The aperture is controlled from the lens ring. Only lenses that don't have an aperture ring, are controlled from the dials.

I've shot both, and have yet to see why so many think the 1.4 is magic... It's not that special in the classic 50 range... Perhaps it's the first lens or first prime people bought when they moved to fuji... I have the 35 f2 and I find it renders better than the 1.4... And it retains better bokeh when stopping down, so you don't need to shoot everything wide open, which believe it or not, is an option :-)

I agree as well that ettr has had it's day. Sure, if you have time to take multiple shots, you could take some proper and then a few as ettr, but I've done so repeatedly and haven't noticed sufficient a gain to offset the risk of over exposing the highlights... When in doubt, you could always set the camera to bracket and shoot 3 frames. I sometimes do that cause I'm lazy ;-)

Try the small latch on the side of the SD card, if there is one. It is probably locked into "read only" mode.

Haven't found the time yet, too busy with work and the baby.

Try this with any program that can change curves (Lightroom, Photoshop, C1,...) together with the film profiles. Works great for colour and black & white. http://www.laroquephoto.com/blog/2016/8/23/the-process-the-film-curve

The lounge on the top floor there is superb Tell them I sent you ;-)

Drivers are dirt cheap in Malaysia, get a driver to drive you around, much safer that way and you help the locals earn some cash. I wouldn't bother with telephoto for travel, unless you are purposely shooting wildlife etcetera. I'd just keep my 16-55 on during the day, and switch to the 23 for night shots. If you need wide and 16 isn't wide enough, you can always shoot a panorama and stitch it afterwards.

Designing a sensor is not the same as making one. Sony most definitely makes Fuji sensors, Fuji just adds their special sauce to the raw design Sony provides. As does Nikon for instance... Specs the sensor doesn't have natively, can't be added though, like no pdaf pixels for instance in this case.

It's called focus peaking. It's normal in manual focus on mirrorless and video cameras. It is customisable and can be turned off.

Xpro2, 16-55, 23mm. That should be plenty.

As someone who always carries a camera in an extremely dusty environment, I can assure you that proper wr is no joke. I've been able to cut my sensor cleaning down to twice a year from six since I replaced the 56mm by the 35mm f2.

The logical explanation is that with AE-L OFF the shutter speed/aperture/iso is only taken right before every shot in the burst if you leave shutter speed/aperture/iso dial at AUTO, depending on your current metering mode and what is in frame. Every shot might have a different shutter speed/aperture/iso that way, and logic follows thus that no shutter speed/aperture/iso can be indicated since the values may fluctuate. Also, normally for the scenarios where AE Lock OFF is required (panning, long bursts,...), you would be deciding the shutter speed anyway, shooting action you'd set 1/500 or faster depending the subject... For panning maybe 1/60 or 1/125, etc... AE lock is defaulted to on for most shooters, and not until you are shooting long bursts into or away from a stronger lightsource is it advised to switch it off (for as long as you need it off, then switch it back on for normal shooting). Pressing the AE-L button, should give you your shutter speed/aperture/iso indication for the first frame of the burst (but I don't have my cam with me now, so I can't check).

We had a gorgeous bloody sunset yesterday evening, few quick snaps from our front door. X-T2, 50-140.

I adore autumn, no more hayfever, gorgeous colours, rapidly changing weather. And a warm, soft sunlight for hours and hours... X-T2, 35 f2

Shooting film is still enjoyable and perfectly useable for a pro, if you so please. No need to "prove" anything, if it's your preference, just go shoot it.