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Greybeard

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Everything posted by Greybeard

  1. Yes - provided you are using a version of the Adobe software which supports your camera. If you are using a subscription version of the Adobe software and keeping it updated then your camera should be supported.
  2. It would appear the answer is yes in both cases - as you are transferring jpgs the conversion to the film simulation and jpg settings have already taken place in the camera. If you shoot raw and transfer the files directly (either by card reader or wifi) then you have the flexibility to change film simulation and other jpg settings on the phone.
  3. Yes very easy - open up the Adobe Raw Converter - just select the location of your raw files at the top of the screen and leave everything else as default. Once you click on the Convert button dng files will be created in the same location as your raw files. Import the dngs into Lightroom.
  4. yes you can load the output from the Adobe DNG Converter into Lightroom
  5. Its tough to tell much from these - perhaps you could post a full size example straight out of the camera (with metadata intact)
  6. Here is a link to the Fuji raw converter https://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/myfinepix_studio/rfc/index.html here is a link to the Adobe DNG converter https://helpx.adobe.com/uk/photoshop/using/adobe-dng-converter.html
  7. I notice this has been reported a few times and the answer seems to be that the raw files are corrupted. Have you tried running them through another raw converter? Perhaps the software that comes free from Fuji or maybe the Adobe DNG Converter? That way you will know if its the file or some issue specific to Lightroom.
  8. Which version of Lightroom? Have you made sure you are on the latest?
  9. Yes - exposure and focus are separate. You can have auto exposure with manual focus and also manual exposure with auto focus.
  10. Electronic shutter maybe?
  11. Wex may be able to answer this - they have probably come across it before - the promotion terms don't make it clear. Fuji are quite responsive by email but you obviously won't get a reply before the 5th.
  12. If this is on Windows look at your task bar (probably at the bottom of the screen) and look for the X AcQuire symbol (X on a partial circle). If not there then check the hidden icons (also on the task bar).
  13. This is rather an old post - but have you verified you are on the latest X100F firmware?
  14. Your choice is really between a fast UHS-I card (such as the SanDisk Extreme Pro card recommended by DTA116) or an even faster UHS-II card (again the SanDisk Extreme Pro cards are well regarded - but also Sony, Lexar (but make sure its the 2000x cards), or ProGrade (the V90 cards). Given the current card price its not worth getting anything slower. The UHS-II cards are much more expensive but are better if you shoot long or frequent fast continuous bursts (and faster to copy images from card to computer). The X-Pro3 doesn't support the 400Mbps video frame rate of the X-T3 so doesn't need the UHS-II card if you change your mind and shoot video If you want to save money maybe start with a fast UHS-I card and only upgrade to UHS-II if you find yourself waiting for the buffer to empty.
  15. Good news - I'd still recommend a faster card such as the SanDisk Extreme Pro - might not make an enormous difference but will flush the buffer faster if you do any continuous bursts (and will copy from card to computer faster).
  16. You probably have a SanDisk Ultra SDXC UHS-I card - they are slow but should be visible to the camera. You said you formatted the card and then tried using a computer - does that mean that the camera initially formatted the card? Its best to format the card in the camera (the X-T20 would format the card as exFAT). The fact that your computer would read the card implies a camera rather than card problem. Have you checked inside the card compartment for any obvious problem or dirt? How easy is it to take the camera back? If that's difficult because its a present you could try a new card first before getting Fuji to check the camera (something like the SanDisk Extreme Pro UHS-I cards are well regarded and relatively inexpensive for the smaller cards).
  17. There are two reasons that minimum ISO is limited to 640 - using DR 400 and using F-LOG for movie
  18. Here is a screen shot with the LUT from the Fuji web site applied - no other processing
  19. Which AF Mode are you using? (Go into the menu and look at the first screen of AF/MF setting). It might help if you read the tutorial at this link which explains how the camera focuses and the effect of the different modes. https://fujifilm-x.com/af/en/af_mode/ It was written before the X-T3 and X-T30 but the principle is the same - the main difference is that phase detection now works across the entire screen.
  20. They don't look too bad to me - the first two seem underexposed but after applying the LUT in LumaFusion the 3200 ISO clip seemed OK considering the low light. I notice you have extra sharpening applied and weakest possible noise reduction - maybe try at default.
  21. There is a difference between Film Simulation and Custom Profile - changing the Film Simulation doesn't automatically change the Custom Profile. If you want the different settings for different Film Simulations then set up different Custom Profiles.
  22. Grudgingly I now only use OEM batteries despite the expense. The improvement with the 126s wasn't so much capacity but in the way they handle heat - especially important with video.
  23. Are you sure it was ever possible to select any other film simulations in full auto?
  24. The raw file has (at least) three components: - the raw data (which doesn't have any film simulation applied), - metadata which gives all sorts of information about the image including the film simulation in use when the image was taken - a preview image jpg that image viewers typically use when you look at the raw image (this has the film simulation applied). The raw file can be processed by a raw converter - Fuji and Adobe (amongst others) have raw converters that can apply any film simulation to the raw data - not just the simulation you used when shooting the image.
  25. Its called Natural Live View on the X-T3
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