Greybeard

Look in the menu under ISO. Auto ISO and movie ISO are both limited to 6400 but you should be able to change ISO manually to 12800 unless you are in one of the special modes.

Yes what AF Mode are you using and where are you placing the focus point? Do you see the camera appearing to focus where you want it? Are you using Focus Priority? Are you using face or eye detection? Maybe post a file SOOC (without going through any software) so that we can see the problem.

Note the instructions on the Fuji firmware site: "Check if there is no file with the same name in a destination of the firmware to save. If there is file with the same name, a browser can automatically change the name of the firmware like the name and (1). A camera cannot recognize the firmware correctly with a changed name like that." The firmware file name should be FWUP0019.DAT and it should be 48,914 KB in size.

You have misunderstood. The film simulation has not actually been applied to the raw data just the preview jpg and the metadata stored in the RAF file. If you open the raw file in many image viewers you will see the preview jbg with film simulation applied. When you process the raw data you can apply whatever film simulation you want.

Exiftool

I'm also interested - I found some for Nikon DSLRs on ebay and Amazon but not sure if they will fit the XT3.

On playback my X-T3 does show the elapsed clip time. (While recording I'm afraid you are probably stuck with mental arithmetic)

Set aperture on lens to A and make sure Aperture Ring Setting in the Button / Dial menu is set to Command

What is your AF+MF setting (under the AF menu)?

I assume you already have the answer to this - you seem to be using a different ViewMode on the X-T3. If you set ViewMode to EyeSensor then you get image review on either EVF or LCD depending on whether you have the camera up to your eye. If that isn't exactly what you want then cycle through the ViewMode options until you find one that meets your needs using the little button next to the EVF housing.

Drive dial only

If you are having trouble reading or finding the serial number its written into the EXIF metadata of every image taken with that lens

You're going to need some intelligence at the storage end - when you plug the camera into the computer its the Fuji app or something else that pulls images to the computer.

The usual arguments against these cards are that they can move around inside the adapter and give errors and they are so small that they are easy to lose. They seem roughly comparable in write speed with the popular SanDisk cards. If you want to save money they may be worth a try. Let us know how you get on.

I'd be interested if those Lexar cards have solved the problem - they shouldn't - they are maybe slower than the Sandisk 95MB/sec

You don't specify which camera and which settings you are using however this sounds like some other problem rather than card speed - a continuous burst will fill the buffer before it throttles because of card write speed and that should be more that 2 or 3 shots. The X-PRO2 supports UHS-II so you could try one of the recommended faster UHS-II cards such as the SanDisk Extreme Pro 300MB/sec or the Sony G series - faster for bursts but only once the buffer has filled.

No - I haven't seen this - but its always worth backing up your settings just in case

Cards are cheap enough to get rid of something that you know gives problems (or send it back if its a new card). Its rare to find problems reported with SanDisk Extreme Pro cards bought from a reliable source.

http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/compatibility/card/x/ The bottom line is that it depends on your type of photography. If you shoot stills and you want to get the best out of the X-T3 continuous burst modes then a fast UHS-II card such as the SanDisk Extreme Pro 300MB/sec (or similar from Sony and others) will be best. If you shoot video and want to use the highest bit rate then look for a V60 card (unfortunately the video standard is relatively new and some suitable cards may not yet be video rated). If you shoot video but don't need 400Mb/sec then the V30 cards will work fine (including UHS-I cards). If you don't shoot video, don't shoot high speed bursts and don't care if it takes a bit longer to copy images to your computer then you can save a considerable amount on cards - although I wouldn't get anything slower than UHS-I such as the SanDisk Extreme Pro 95MB/sec.. Just make sure they are from known manufacturers (SanDisk, Sony etc) and buy from a reliable source.

Assuming you mean the SanDisk Extreme Pro UHS-I card then its likely faster in the X-T3 than your Lexar cards.

For a brief period Peak Design sold their straps with thinner cords but there were problems and they switched back to the thicker (and more reliable) ones

The grey area towards the bottom of the screen behind shutter speed, aperture, ISO etc.

Do you mean the 23mm/f1.4? Have you moved the focus ring on the lens forwards for autofocus mode?

Some issue with your system - I used that link when the software was released and everything was in English

Are the batteries actually used up - or just showing red in the camera? I have this occasionally where the batteries appear to be used up but actually aren't. Turning camera off, removing and replacing batteries fixed the problem.