milandro

I think a lot of people expect IBIS to be a magic wand, in this case (and others because we still have to see what they really mean by this since it might turn out to be a function only available when filming ) against motion blurring in general, but of course, if you are shooting at slow speed something that moves aiming at the subject being sharp and frozen and the background to be motion blurred, the only way would be to use panning (for example) in which case IBIS and OIS are welcome. Provided you master the art of following your subject with a fluid movement that is.

perhaps you mean focus peak?

http://www.fujirumors.com/fujifilm-scratched-ultimate-fujifilm-x-focus-fujifilm-x-t2s-ibis-camera/ So, apparently they have abandoned the “ Ultimate” X project Now the folks to whom only the best caters for would have to do with a miserable “ S” attached to their new X-T2. G-d knows the pictures one could have taken and will now never materialize... if only there was an “ Ultimate” X on the market! To be continued (?)

well, the signs are of your lens no longer being completely coupled to the camera. You could try giving a clean to the contacts of your lens but it might be very well the case that the lens has lost an electrical connection (or more) internally. Manual focus won’t work too because it is focus by wire lens, I think.

bingo... if you shoot Raw+ jpeg you of course have also the option to choose how good a jpeg you want. If you are aiming at sending the images through your phone you may want to go for the “ Normal” setting instead of “ Fine”. I have always shot Raw+Fine but of course the jpegs are heavier that way.

No, what JohanT is saying is that if you ONLY shoot raw the preview that you visualize (both in camera or on your computer) will be limited only to the embedded low resolution contained within the RAW file. This embedded low resolution jpeg is contained within the raw file for visualization purposes only but it confuses many because, being a very low resolution image, shows as being rather not sharp. You can’t, in fact, see RAW files, that’s why you need a jpeg to “ see “ them and that’s what yyou will see (low res image) if you only shoot raw. From what you are saying it is apparent that you have only previously shot either only jpegs or only raws but never both together. This thing is not Fuji specific and you can see it on any camera, so whichever camera you have, if it shoots raw files you can see what JohanT meant.

I use the magnifying method and works very well, once you get the hang of into find it blind while shooting. I have now more lenses with manual focus than without. Of course this is not always easy with extreme wideangles ( 8mm and 12mm) so I rely on the hyperfocal there. I don’t enjoy the use of zooms it manual focus, especially those with a one control only, pump action. I aso have to say that I have never found a classic wideangle that could be at par with one specifically made for these cameras.

I am all for thrifty solutions if at all possible. But I fail to see the logic of spending thousands in acquiring camera and lenses ( while there are cheaper options out there )only to then try to save a few hundreds acquiring a computer that will give certainly more problems than another. That would be really being penny wise and pounds foolish. If you compare standalone computers LIKE the Imac in Windows environment they are not much cheaper than a Imac (see the link published also above https://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2401541,00.asp)... nobody follows links I guess.

since you are opening the files on your computer the quickest method is to throw them out from your computer even before you take the card out to replace it in your camera. Select all throw out empty bin.

on the other hand in over 3 years of use of the same card I have very rarely formatted it and more often than not emptied it by simply emptying the trash-basket on the computer after removing the files and countless times have removed it without previously ejecting and here it is, still working perfectly.

http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2021-which-lenses-should-i-take-to-thailand/

the camera will tell you (if you enable it to) the remaining number of shots or the time , it can’t tell you how many Gb or Mb left there are

you can use any lens you wish with an adapter. Of course, as it is well known, there are no other lenses than Zeiss (and few of them only) with autofocus, so it will have to be manual focus. If you specifically need something for quick focus something with internal focusing and focusing limiter would be called for or perhaps resurrecting an old lens like the Novoflex system. It took a very long time for fuji to produce the 100-400 and there is very little call for these camera’s to go with huge lenses. In other words don’t hold your breath waiting for one. The Novoflex 600 5.6 or the 800 8 could be such lens for you. Otherwise the Nikon 800mm 8 ed if.

nice to know your buying plans, but if you don’t mind me saying this, this thread has a completely different scope and is to see pictures shot with a tilt adapter, not even the tilt shift one. I’d like to see something in the manner of this or any other picture shot with this particular adapter

if the eyepiece is fogged where is the weather resistance? My X-T1 never had that

Lo and behold ( no Lord involved in this idiom ). Good Luck with your quest.

Sorry I forgot this was about the X10. In that case probably, the only option is sending the camera to the Fuji service which is your case probably means somewhere very far. Also, as you say, it may cost more than the camera is worth (even if these cameras are now picking up in price, I’ve sold mine for more than I paid ( secondhand and I could get now even more than that!). Before sending ti away ( if you decide to do so) I would try, If I were you, to open and close the lens a few times with a bit of energy whilel holding the camera with the lens facing the ground. The suction generated by the lens extending (completely) might dislodge the foreign object which, could even be at the back of the lens and not the sensor. You may be lucky! Good Luck!

yes, but now I am confused, I thought you wanted to toggle between screen with or without information.

I was referring to Custom Setting of the LCD/EVF http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t2/menu_setup/screen_set-up/index.html#disp_custom_setting In that menu you decide what the display shows (or not)

Jill.E design Jack model, will allow you carrying plenty of stuff, including A4 papers, laptop, camera and lenses and much more. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/651200-REG/Jill_E_Designs_144744_Jack_Messenger_Camera_Bag.html

You can set on or off all info with the personalized LCD/EVF controls. But you probably know that. I’ve never done this myself but I guess that you could save the LCD/EVF settings ( all info off in this case) in the personal setting menu and then assign a button the option to switch or or off the personal settings Fuji receives emails with suggestions on what to do, they must be several hundreds of thousands every day. Despite this being a gargantuan task, I suppose that there will be several people reading them you can add your to that plethora. If they would even remotely consider to insert all suggestions in the software or hardware we will end up with unworkable amount of menus and a camera even larger and heavier. That’s why they have the customizable menu, which, at least for certain software aspects, provides you the choice to do something that may (or may not) be of interest to others.

Bonjour, Oui c'est seulement quelques objets étrangers sur le capteur. Un problème facile , juste d'un nettoyage du capteur. Votre magasin de confiance peut le résoudre pour vous. Il n'y a pas besoin de l'envoyer à Fuji. Mon magasin de confiance nettoie le capteur gratuitement, mais d'autres demandent 30 € Mais la langue officielle de ce forum est l’anglais... Yes, it’s only some foreign object on the sensor. An easy problem, only need cleaning the sensor. Your trusted shop can solve this for you, There is no need to send this to Fuji. My trusted shop cleans this for fee but other shops ask €30 Good luck

the shots were exactly to illustrate the versatility of a lens that can provide both a special effect OR an almost imperceptibly (it isn’t but it could pass for one) “ normal” wideangle picture.

well the dark “ stain” looks definitely like sensor dirt and the white one looks like a lens reflection. To make sure , take a picture against a blue sky or a white wall at a very close aperture

interesting since this should be a WR set with WR lens and WR camera... What does WR stand for if it fogs up inside? I have used my X-T1 in the tropics but without a WR lens so it did fog up. When you go from an airconditioned environment to the warm and damp outside the lens fogs up (and maybe the sensor does too, not unimportantly also for implications that tiny specs of dust could become glued beyond blowing to the sensor!). So, normally you wait that the fogging clears up, it takes a minute or so. I have never had the viewfinder fogging though it was always the lens (and it might have been the sensor too). I shouldn’t think that this is norma and probably indicates a loss of the WR somehow.