milandro

resurrection of this thread

but you can also use it like this

lone chimney

I would always use the shop where I bought any of my gear, guarantee contract is first and foremost with them, they are responsible to carry out any service

tilt

in the attempt to make this project a bit more usable I will buy a new type of helicoid which I will then connect to a set of adapters with a stopless aperture. This will allow to develop certain amount of extra depth of field ( although having an aperture outside the lens, between lens and camera, is far from ideal..) as opposed to shooting at full opening, which has its charm but it has also many limitations.

kamera express sent my camera to Germany

I use the 12mm Samyang and I am very happy with it. One note your comment on “ faster” lenses. Do you use much, or at all, any of these lenses at its widest aperture? I find that most people say this thing of preferring faster lenses but unless you are using open apertures to separate the subject from its background (hardly on a super wideangle and only feasible at the closest of the focussing distance) the use of lenses at its widest aperture only returns soft (at best) pictures, even on a wideangle, because much won’t be in focus or covered by depth of field. This is even more true of longer lenses of course. Indeed the 56mm f1.2 has almost imperceptible depth of field at its closest focussing distance measurable in millimeters. In the olden days, before the mirrorless revolution, it made sense to have a very bright and light efficient lens since you were looking and focussing trough the mirror the real image through the lens and prism , but this is, with mirrorless cameras, no longer the case. You are looking at an enhanced image on a lcd screen, not a image trough lens and prism which helps you compose and then you or the camera stop it down at the working aperture when sooting , if you use a lens like the 12mm where the aperture is not automatic, you change it between 2 and 4 (or more) and unless you are in light conditions that would make almost impossible to shoot , you won’t see much difference at all on your mirrorless ( in automatic or at the correct exposure) screen because the image keeps of being enhanced in luminosity terms . Yes at extreme low EV values there will be visible noise but there will be noise anyway, whether you look (but probably not shoot) at 1.6 or 5.6

works the same way

thanks, there are many K&F users here already and they are highly valued by me personally too.

nice but you cold post the pictures directly bigger... just copy the link and paste it by clicking on the icon which looks like a polaroid

still more and more honorable

1) yes 2) yes 3) yes (provided your lens has a manual aperture and not an electrically controlled one)

I already have the Canon EF+ Aperture >Fuji and the lens has no helicoid , so you need that, the M42 to EF is a flat adapter.

... even then, the image circle would be greater than the one you need and the possible but unlikely lens tilt issue would be incredibly small and mostly only at very high apertures. No problem then. I fact I am about to embark in a project where I am using 4 adapters on a projection lens where I have modified an T2/M42 adapter, then I am using an helicoid M42/M42 then I am using a M42/Canon EF adapter and THEN I have an Canon EF + Aperture> Fuji FX adapter! This is more of a fun thing and I am making use of things that I have already (and others that I am buying especially) to do all this. ( Check out my projection lenses adaptation thread in a few weeks) Dust or particles is always an issue when using anything on a digital camera

Much depends on where you are in the world but the only time I had to send a camera for repair ( from the NL) it took a total of 8 weeks , 2 weeks were the shop’s fault a t 6 weeks the German Fuji lab. It is ridiculous, I agree. Dust on the rear element was reason for me to exchange the 10-24 almost immediately after purchase.

I don’t understand, what I see is a few darker blobs, is this not simply dirt on your sensor? Take a picture of a white surface and enhance contrast if you see black globules it’s dirt otherwise it is something else

actually all these settings are not " custom “ or not because you use automatic exposure with aperture priority, you can change them all, but you simply leave the default ones. You can chose all of the above yourself! The camera is NOT taking over, you have simply never bothered to change the factory settings. Most will affect only the jpeg though and my hunch is that that all you are using. As for what these setting mean for you (or not)...If you are mentioning this much in one breath it means that you need a photography course or at least a book to understand the working of each and every of these. You are practically mentioning the workings of the whole of the camera!

No of course no autofocus, and not only with metabone but with any current production of adapters because no adapter has electric contacts able to carry the autofocus between lens and body. Not only but NO other communication between lens and camera is possible! You won’t have any of the things that you are seeking. There are some experimental adapters with these electrical contacts but they will be so expensive that it makes no sense to use them. They are being developed for the Fuji GFX. Also, there are no reasons to spend the kind of money that metabone adapters or novoflex command. K&F are made very well and cost a fraction of the price. This is also true of the “ speed booster” adapters.

1) very 2) also very likely but that is not of your concern you should return the lens if it makes you uncomfortable, you have your warranty anyway 3) I have has lenses with "unidentified staying objects “ inside and exchanged them immediately in the shop which is what has happened to this lens in all probability.

you could use the preset or set the color temperature at about between 2900ºK for normal incandescence lamps to 3200ºK for halogens.

I found the explanation in the links very clear but milage varies...

I am sure that it can easily, as described, be removed and cleaned

it is not stupid but is has been asked before

Most of the times things like these have been spoken about before, using the search engine could help http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/5532-the-use-of-dynamic-range-highlight-and-shadow-tones/ you will find what you look for contained in these articles, http://lxcellent.blogspot.nl/2012/12/using-fuji-x-e1-tone-controls.html http://www.fujirumors.com/how-to-expand-dynamic-range/