Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Winter in Hokkaido. XPro2 18mm F2

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Taken with X-Pro1...

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Another with X-Pro1...

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Twilight in Sapporo. Xpro2 . 18mm F2

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

On the beach. Xpro 2 14mm F2.8

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Last summer at Pashley Manor Gardens, East Sussex. Colour or B&W ?

X-T1 with 35mm lens f2

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

My favourite method for converting Color photos to B&W, has to be Photoshop Gradient map. I watched a video which walked through about 8 different methods, but the gradient map seemed to retain the largest tonal range of colors when converted into B&W. I shoot 100% of my photos in color, but end up converting a lot to B&W in post. Usual method is to fully edit for color in Lightroom, transfer to Photoshop only to apply the "Gradient Map", then bring it back to lightroom and adjust levels to taste.

 

Here's an example of the look when finished:

 

32330412942_e74bea347b_c.jpg

 

I've tried just editing in Lightroom by switching to the B&W panel, but for some reason it often reduces the overall tonal range of colors. Gradient map is visibly better, every time (and it's a very simple conversion!)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Hey everyone, I am new to the fujifilm system, and I just received my X100vi about 15 days ago, and yesterday I noticed that ISO and exposure dials are acting up. I spent hours watching YouTube videos and reading forms without finding any solutions. Using ChatGPT or Gemini also didn’t help. My issues are the following: If I want to set my ISO at a specific value then the camera LCD/EVF shows a totally different value. For example, I have shutter manual, aperture manual and ISO dial at 6400, the camera shows ISO at 4000, when I take pictures it will show ISO at 4000 and not 6400. When I try to choose another ISO value it will skip some of the available values that are shown on the dial. Another issue I am having is when my exposure dial is not set at specific value, then I cannot set ISO to Auto no matter what value I select on the dial. If I do select the different exposure compensation values, then I choose A for ISO, the camera will activate the front commend dial to manually change ISO values. To get in Auto ISO, the shutter speed cannot be set in auto and the ISO dial should be set at 125, when I turn the ISO wheel, it seems like the numbers are misaligned by one value, If I put the dial on A with shutter speed manual, then it will trigger the front commend dial. The other issue that I am having is when I have Aperture, shutter speed and ISO on manual, If I change the exposure dial compensation + or - , it actually changes the exposure of the picture as well as the ISO value, which as I understand, if Camera is in full manual, the exposure dial should do nothing. The last issue that I am having, if I do have ISO in manual at a set value, and adjust exposure compensation dial, it alters my ISO instead of my shutter speed or my aperture, even though ISO is in Manual and the other two dials are in Automatic. I am not really sure if all of this is by design and I am just not understanding how everything works together, but it seems really odd how everything changes. Resetting the camera settings didn’t help. 
    • I also have the eaxct problem with my X-T5. The remote used to work, but not anymore. I also get the light coming on on the camera back, and autofocus will happen, but no shutter release. Since I use the 2 or 10 seconds timer more I don't know if a firmware update is the cause of this negative change. I actualley only use the wired jack-remote for action release on a tripod.  Did anybody find a cause, and even more assisting, a solution?
    • I have the same issue. Have you found the the solution?
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

       
    • On my XPro 2 the rear command dial, when pressed, can cycle through 3 different magnification levels in the OVF.  
×
×
  • Create New...