Jump to content

Which Fuji X cameras do you use?  

816 members have voted

  1. 1. Which Fuji X cameras do you use?

    • Fuji X-Pro1
      147
    • Fuji X-Pro2
      96
    • Fuji X-T1
      411
    • Fuji X-T10
      110
    • Fuji X-E1
      105
    • Fuji X-E2
      179
    • Fuji X-E2s
      14
    • Fuji X-A1
      17
    • Fuji X-A2
      3
    • Fuji X-M1
      32
    • Fuji X100
      49
    • Fuji X100s
      87
    • Fuji X100t
      105
    • Fuji X70
      12
    • Fuji X10 / X20 / X30
      60
    • Fuji X-S1
      15
    • Fuji XF1
      7
    • Fuji XQ1/XQ2
      10

This poll is closed to new votes


Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

I had to send a used XT1 back to B&H due to condition but I liked it a lot otherwise.  But I have a new XP1 body with a used 35 f/2 and 18-55 and am loving using them.  Mostly a Nikon DSLR shooter but the XP1 is changing that.  I will likely get an XT1 body when the start dropping in price like the XP1 did.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bonsoir,

The poll seems to be closed, but fwiw I use XT 1 (+ 18-55 and 14) + X100, the latter being my introduction to Fuji and, despite its idiosyncrasies, is great for walking out and about light. I also like the discipline of a fixed focal length.

Jeremy

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

X-E2s, X-Pro2.

 

When I dumped my Sony gear to move to Fujifilm, I kept my RX100m3, a very capable -- though typically soulless -- genuinely pocketable "scout cam". I've never held or even seen an X-70, so it's possible I might trade for that or its successor at some point. I think it's too big, but I don't know.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hello, X Pro 1 with 18 to 55 on front & X E2s with a 100 to 400 + 2x converter. Also have primes 18, 27, 35 60 for occasional use and a X A1 with the XC Zoom Lens which is redundant now. Next Safari will take the XE2s & zoom and the 27mm - but will not look to be changing lens in the field. And this all came from the XS1 which is still in use in the family.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...