Tikcus

I have the 35 F/1.4 and 18-55 between the two the 35mm gets used 99% of the time. I zoom with my feet, and find having an extra 2.5 stops(ish) of light really helps in low light (OIS on the zoom doesn't prevent motion blur)

OIS/IBIS would not help me with low light photography in any way (video is different) Image stabilisation helps with camera shake at slow shutter speeds, However when I shoot in low light it is one of the following two situations 1 - Gigs/Events (photo'ing people) ​Motion Blur becomes an issue along time before camera shake does. No ibis/ois can prevent motion blur 2 - Long exposures/Light Painting Shutter speed is slower than 10 seconds and this is tripod work, ibis can't prevent camera shake handholding for 10 seconds + I doubt I'd ever use a 90mm for events as it puts you too far away and is a lens i've never had a desire to buy. The 35 F/1.4 or 56 F/1.2 working with shutter speeds 1/60 or faster are perfectly usable handheld (for me) any slower than 1/60 seconds the images aren't sharp due to motion blur so having ibis wont help me. Where OIS/IBIS makes sense (and is needed) is for longer lenses and zoom lenses >100mm

an APS-C fixed lens replacement for the 2/3" X30 maybe? a 16-50 F/2.8 would be nice personally I wouldn't count a different colour X-T2 or X-Pro2 as a new camera

Just checked, Fuji uk online shop has limited stock of black x-t10, amazon uk has very limited stock of x-t10's, I know my local camera shop had at least one X-T10 in when i walked past the other day The camera is available but supplies are limited, there is also not large amounts of X-E2s in stock on amazon (however the X-E2 is available for only £399.99 on amazon uk atm https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fujifilm-X-E2-Camera-Silver-Sensor/dp/B00FZSEMRE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1476525355&sr=8-5&keywords=x-e2s

when I shot events the F/1.4 over F/2 makes a difference to me When light is poor the extra stop can be the difference between getting a shot and not! Also remember DOF is not just about the Aperture, but also the distance between the object and the back ground

Love my X-T10, if I was buying a fuji now and funds for a X-T2 were not available, I'd buy the X-T10, or X-T1 which would depend on the deals available. I prefer the shape of the X-T cameras if you prefer the range finder style, the X-E2s is also an option

shooting live music on a stage with poor lighting I normally use the 35 F/1.4, personally I prefer to shoot at F/1.4 and ISO of 1600, than @ F/2.0 and an ISO of 3200 (assuming Shutter speed is at the minimum level required to prevent motion blur) But I have shot with the 60 F/2.4. It all depends on where you shoot, and how you like your final photos to look. There are plenty of examples of live music that I have shot on flickr

So the X-T10 is discontinued, I hope this means sooner rather than later we will get an X-T20; However, it could also mean that Fujifilm believe they now have enough in the channel to satisfy demand until a replacment is available next year, and if they run out, there is always the (technically) similar X-E2s which will still be available. There is also the possibility (although I hope not) that an X-T10s is about to be announced with small improvements aka X-E2s which was released alongside the X-Pro2 However if an X-T20 is released I hope for the following X-Trans 3 sensor /Pro processor Same autofocus points as X-T2 UHS-II SD-Card port (1 port will do) Tilt screen Price sub £600 edit ISO Dial

X-Pro 2 sensor/CPU Flip or tilt touch screen (just for focusing) Pop up View Finder 23mm Lens (as fast as possible) Body as small as possible Cheaper than an X-Pro 2 + 23mm F/2.0 lens

If money was no object, or you had the 1.4 in your left hand the 2.0 in your right and you said, "you can have either for free" I'd take the 1.4 If I was in the market for a 23mm lens to compliment my current lenses and where budget does matter I'd buy the 2.0. However, unless I get a really good deal, I'm just not in the market for a 23mm. 35mm is my go to lens, if I need wider I grab the 18mm, never really feel the need to use anything inbetween

I'd say the MP count is the least interesting new feature of the XT2/Pro2, but to answer your question similar to the above Yes and No If you frame a shot well, and have minimal cropping the difference of the print at a normal viewing distance will be minimal. If you heavily crop the image then the extra MP will enable you to print the cropped image with more acceptable quality to a larger size compared to the 16MP sensor Unfortunately, I have not had the pleasure of printing from the X-Pro2 and the XT1/10/E2 to compare the difference. However, I happily print A1 (594X841mm)and A2 (420X594mm) prints from the X-Trans 2 sensor cameras, and I have no intention of upgrading to an X-trans 3 for print quality (for other features maybe) good luck with your decision

I think it is a power saving feature, not a fault. I can't help with where or if there is an option to turn the feature off. but would imagine if there is one it will be in the wifi settings (I don't own XA2)

seems to be an XA2 with more MP and a touch screen as still CDAF only

X-Trans 3 sensor / X-Pro processor Tilt screen Touch screen focusing (or joystick) Pop up View Finder As small as possible TBH this is my ideal street/walk around camera, doesn't have to be an XE/XT, can be an X anything!

think his point is if the XA-3 has an xtrans sensor it would be a replacement for the X-M series

The XE-2(s) and XT-10 already compete with the X70 both with the 18mm are in the same price range as the X70+OVF at least in UK The X-A series is designed for the first time MILC/SLR buyer who does not want to invest large amounts on a body, but can then upgrade and keep the lenses, targeting people that want more than their iPhone can give them. If it were to feature an XTrans 3/X-Pro processor with all the goodness that comes with it, and was priced at current X-A series level, it would potentially hurt sales of all X-Trans 2 cameras The most used camera in the world (on flickr) does not have an EVF or OVF, and it makes phone calls https://www.flickr.com/cameras

I'd be almost sure now, it is the same sensor that is in the Sony Alpha 6000 and 5100, see initial post I very much doubt it will be xtrans3

Although joining a safari sounds fun, I can't, enjoy your trip

welcome

Not cheaper in the UK (although only £50 more) Regarding 2 different bodies, it depends on the job/circumstance. If I wanted the photos to look exactly the same with minimal effort, having 2 camera of the same sensor generation would be best. (XPro2/XT2 or XT1/10/E2 etc) I recently did an event and used an X-Pro1 and X-T10, different sensors, different lens, different settings and had no issues

Weather Sealed X-T1 X-T2 X-Pro2 24MP X-Trans 3 Sensor X-T2 X-Pro2 16MP X-Trans 2 Sensor X-T1 X-T10 X-E2 X-E2s DSLR shaped X-T2 X-T1 X-T10 Range Finder Shaped X-Pro2 X-E2 X-E2s Dual SD Card Slots X-T2 X-Pro2 Max SD Card Speed X-T2 - UHS-II X-T1 - UHS-II X-Pro2 - UHS-II X-T10 - UHS-I X-E2 - UHS-I X-E2s - UHS-I 4K Video X-T2 Hybrid Viewfinder (OVF & EVF) X-Pro2 All others EVF only will do more later, sure there was a comparison somewhere

We can all only make our own decisions. Personally if I was buying a new camera today, and money was no object the choice would be between the X-T2 and X-Pro2. When I last purchased a camera, the choice was between the X-T1, the X-T10, and X-E2, at this time, the X-E2 had not had the firmware update to upgrade the autofocus, so I decided it was between the two X-T cameras. In the end I went with the X-T10, as I thought the advantages of the X-T1 (weather sealing, faster card speed/bigger buffer, and ISO dial were not worth £400 for a camera that takes the same photos (the difference pays for a lens) the ISO dial is easily replaced by using a function button, the other two I'll live without When it comes to my next upgrade (wont be any time soon) it will depend on what is available at the time, presently their is no XT-20 to compare against. The differences between the XT2 and 1, 24MP to 16MP, dual memory card slots (useful for professional work) to a single, and faster auto focus with more PDAF. ​But it is at a significant price premium (at least in UK) with the X-T2 almost double the price of the X-T1 or 3.3 times the price of the X-T10

I decided to do a quick search on Flickr for your lens and came across this photo https://flic.kr/p/pZGU1H I have loads of examples on my flickr with what the XF35 F/1.4 can do wide open, however I quite like to shoot at around F/4 especially if I want the background slightly out of focus, but still clear what is going on.

It is not impossible to get a nice out of focus background with that lens, but it aint as easy as with a longer faster lens. Focal length, Aperture, and distance of background effect the quality of out of focus area Shoot wide open @50mm at F/5.6 (I think that is the XC wide open at 50mm), position your subject as close as possible to the camera and as far away from the background as possible Lenses with more reach, and fast aperture are the easiest ways to get a shallow DOF. You can get loads of old lenses if you don't have the money to pay for Fuji glass. If money is no object the XF56 F/1.2 has probably the best Bokeh in the XF lens line up (but this is subjective) have a look at this calculator http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dof-calculator.htm I did a test with 3 lenses the XF35 F/1.4, the XF60 F/2.4, and a Petri K mount 50mm F/2 (lens was next to free and adapter was £10). the downside of adapted lenses is manual focus only, I do like the petri lenses as they feature an aperture ring so you are not stuck always shooting wide open (if the adapter does not have any way of changing aperture)

I always wonder how dark you guys shoot when you say low light, I photo gigs, and the 60mm focuses fine an an xtrans 2 body (might be the useful high contrast scenes) If you are sensible with the exposure settings (I only ever use full manual exposure) I very rarely have any issues