Tikcus

Like you, i'm happy with the 60mm F/2.4, I use it as a portrait lens and I don't do a lot of macro photography so the 1:2 magnification is not a huge concern Re:-OSS for photography Using prime lenses this does not even concern me (I always keep shutter speed =/> than focal length), For longer zoom lenses it is a more useful feature, but depending on the type of photography depends on how useful it is, if you're photo'ing moving wildlife (e.g. flying birds) being able to hand hold the 100-400 at 400mm at 1/30 second is not a lot of use

I use the XF35 F/1.4 for most of my photos (more than 80%) but I'd struggle to list a least used lens, as I have several "specialist" lenses which only see the light o day for specific situations.

I had the Sony 50mm F/1.8 APS-C lens (SEL50F18), when I had a Sony camera, I loved that lens, probably still one of the best value for money lenses I ever got (£200), and was a nice length for portraits. I don't own the 56 F/1.2, I do own the 60 F/2.4. Would I buy a 50mm F/2 considering the other lenses I own, probably not unless it has something special about it; It's only half a stop faster than the 60mm, for portraits the 60mm is fast enough DOF will be similar. If I didn't own either, and price was similar then maybe, depending on what he lens was like when it is released. I am sure there will be a market for the lens, especially considering that the 35mm F/2 has been such a success (at least with the reviews, and comments)

My XF35 F/1.4 is so good, not sure I need n extra stop of light, or a shallower DOF Honestly thinking about it, I don't use half the lenses I have access to, the only focal length gaps is something wider than 18mm. However, I very rarely shoot landscapes and find the 18mm wide enough when I do, and I find the lens sharp enough. The only time I wished I had something wider was when I used the camera for video, (actually tempted to buy a Samyang cine lens) I'd be interested in a 200mm F/2.8 if it was compatible with the 1.4 X TC (and the upcoming 2X TC), as would get a 280mm F/4, and a 400mm F/5.6, but I expect tit to be expensive for a lens that I'd only use every now and again

For portraits (in studio) i'm more than happy with the 60mm F/2.4, my pockets are not deep enough for the 56 F/1.2 at the minute. Outside I'm happy with the 35mm F/1.4, I find the focal length more flexible than the 60mm I don't do a lot of landscapes but use the 18mm F/2 for street. f i had unlimited funds, I'm sure i'd buy the 16 F/1.4, 35 F/1.4, and 56 F/1.2.

I'm more interested in this than any lenses or camera bodies atm. I have a LG Pocket Photo printer, which is cheaper to print on and the actual print size is larger 3" X 2" corner to corner (compared to SP1); however, it is slow to print, and can not print direct from camera, the image has to be copied to tablet/phone first. It does have a recargable battery, but it can only print about 10 photographs before requiring a re-charge. The print quality of the zero ink paper is ok, but from what i've seen, the SP1 is a little better, however if the SP2 has the following it will be on my list of things to buy (near the top): 1:- Direct Printing from camera (I expect this) 2:- Decent battery length (30+ photos) 3- Priced similar to SP1 (competitively to competition) 4 - Film priced competitively (ideally less than 50p a photograph) 5- larger print (not a deal breaker, but would be nice)

I have just finished a series of studio headshots (about 24 hours of total shooting) using the XT-10 and XF60 exclusively. Make sure you update the firmware on the camera and the lens, the latest firmware makes the lens a lot faster to focus. I have no issues with the focus speed, it focuses pretty much instantly in the studio (it was pretty dim, and I was shooting at F/11 ISO 200, 1/180) The only time I have ever noticed the focus being slow is if the lens misses focus and goes through the entire focus range (and being a macro lens this is a big range), or for macro work. In my experience no macro lens focuses lightning fast. Outside i've never felt the lens was slow, but my normal lens for general photography is the 35 F/1.4, and have never tried to track a fast moving object with the XF60 hope this helps

I was looking forward to his lens, however less so now. I do not own the 23mm f/1.4 or an X100 camera, but I do own the 18/27/35/60 primes. I never carry the 27mm (which is strange since it is the smallest lens) The 60mm is used for portrait work manly, and is added to the bag as required The 18mm, and 35mm are my go to lenses. There is enough difference between them to justify one on the camera, other in my pocket, the 27mm feels very close to both (a few steps forwards or backwards), I feel the 23mm would fall into the same situation. Push came t shove I could probably do almost everything with the 35 f/1.4 With the 23mm I don't believe I could do anything I can't with the 18mm, it may be optically better but I aint got any complaints with the 18 anyway I guess I just don't suffer from GAS anymore,

no offers this side of the pond as of yet? Only offer I could see for UK was half price xf35f/1.4 with purchase of x-pro2

My Lexar Pros are my go to cards (but you can always get a bad one) Format card in camera If still getting the error Put sd card in your Mac, copy a large file or files to the sd card to fill it, if it is faulty you should get a write error Test camera with another SD card

X2 tele is interesting, with massive reach potential but the 2 stops of light lost is a lot when the 100-400 goes from F/5.6 to F/11. Not an issue for stationary objects, but moving targets, e.g. birds, where you need to maintain a fast shutter speed, you're going to need a bright day

ty

I'm a cyclists and I'm tired of having a backpack on when cycling with my kit. I have a rack on the bike, and saddle bags, however I do not trust just putting the camera into the saddle bags, or a small camera bag inside them, due to the amount of vibrations etc. Does anyone know of a manufacturer that produces saddle bags for camera gear and lenses, with padded compartments (like a normal camera bag) or a similar rack bag that you would recommend? Or does anyone just make a customer solution. I'm looking for enough space for 1 or 2 X series bodies, and up to 3 additional lenses (biggest being xc 50-230) Any suggestions appreciated

This is the question, not just for Fuji but for all companies that make cameras. I would hazard a guess that the majority of under 30's that are casual photographers do not own a stand alone camera, as their mobile phone is good enough for them. For this reason the market for cameras may just come down to those who want/need something better than a mobile phone can provide. A photographer I know got an X70 on release for street photography, he has already sold it. Not for the quality, but he found he was happy carrying his X-pro with 18mm lens, and it did not fill one function his iPhone did, the ability to instantly take an iPhone picture, and upload it to social media. I think in camera apps have to be in the future (I know Sony have already started), there also needs to be improved connectivity (include a modem, and sim card slot )removing the need to transfer photos to a computer, tablet or mobile phone before sending them to a social media site. (I know how annoying it is, not being able to connect the LG zero ink printer straight to the camera, and first having to transfer to mobile phone) I'm sure there will be new tax applied to the devices (almost certain in the EU) the same as extra tax is applied if a camera can record more than x minutes of video, or if a computer monitor has digital inputs, so I imagine if a camera can act as a communications device it will get another level of tax.

With the look that Fuji wants the X-series as a premium line, I am not surprised. I also wouldn't be surprised if the X-A line does not get updated, (and no new XC lenses) Whether this is good or bad I'm not sure....... As Fuji does not now have any X series camera without a APS-C sensor, in the short term i can not see a 1" camera being released The X100 and X70 are great, but there are now no cameras in the X series with a fixed zoom lens. if you want a 24mm-100mm eqv on a fixed lens camera with an APS-C sensor it would be massive. from a financial stand point it may make sense to concentrate on higher margin products than get involved in tight margin entry level products. Personally, i'd rather see a focus on high quality line up on the X series MILC X Pro line for range finder style (with the X-E as the entry level) XT line for SLR shaped (with the X-T10 replacement as the entry level) n/b by entry level I mean entry level to the X system not entry level cameras What I'd really like to see is a instax SP1 replacement with rechargeable battery, not that i've got 1 atm, i'm using a LG zeroink printer, but it has poor battey life, and you have to transfer photos from the camera to phone then to printer and it takes around 1 min to print. If a replacement to the SP1 is released I may change

I've never had an issue with the XT-10 I remapped the bottom right function button from wifi to iso on day 1, so I could alter aperture, shutter speed, and iso without entering a menu (the function button still accesses wifi in playback mode) For me this is an easy work around or the lack of iso dial The other differences I decided were not worth the extra ££££ (slightly bigger evf, faster sd card speed supported/bigger buffer, and Weather resistance) ​But, only you can decide whether the extras for you are worth the additional costs. Good luck with whatever you decide

I like the range the x30 covers, but since i am happy carrying the XT10 everywhere i go, i just know i'd never use it.

the 180mm (FF) F/2.8 non macro is covered by the XF50-140 F/2.8. I would not be surprised if we do not see many if any Fuji Primes longer than 200mm, as you move into a very specialist market, and the lenses would be expensive to make, would not sell in large numbers, and have a very high selling price

it wont happen, but if Fuji released a 60mm MKii with 1:1 macro @ F/1.4 or 2 that was compatible with the rumoured 2X tele-converter, that would also give you a 120mm F/2.8 or F/4 Macro lens. n/b i don't know how a T/C affects the magnification (I have read it increases the magnification, there for a 2x tele would make a 1:1 into a 2:1, but not exactly a 100% reliable source) edit if the above is correct a mkii with 0.5 magnification (as current 60 mm) with 2x tele would be 1:1?

Following the what's more important taking pictures or photoshop, I decided to make a guide on creating multiplicity images i photoshop. I hope it is easy to follow (it really is not difficult to do) the only requirments are a tripod and a camera (and photoshop) you can find the guide here regards Andrew

I think there are a few misconceptions regarding heat produced when "computer processors" do certain tasks Just because a "NEW" product does something an old product did not do, does not mean it will produce more heat. All modern cameras have a Processor inside, however newer camera equipment with newer processors, are almost certainly made on a smaller die, or a refined process. Both of which reduce power usage (heat output) when completing the same task as an older generation. Will recording at 4K use more power (and produce more heat) than recording at 1080p on the same device - almost certainly Will recording at 4K use more power (and produce more heat) than recording at 1080p on a older device - due to processor advancements not necessarily. The same goes if I encode a 4K video on my 3 year old workstation it uses more power, and produces more heat than if I encode at 1080p; However, if I upgraded my workstation with a brand new processor, due to advancements I would not be able to confirm if encoding at 4K on a new workstation uses more power or less power than encoding at 1080p on an old workstation, however I would not be surprised if it used less! I have not seen any documentation regarding power usage for the new X-Pro processor compared to the EXR II Processor, either maximum or typical tldr better video quality does not necessarily mean more power usage/heat output

Above advise is good, the only thing I'd add, is do you find the 18mm F/2 or the X70 not wide enough? As the 16mm F/1.4 is only a little bit wider (the eqv of a few steps imo), and 1 stop brighter (although if money is no object, it is reportedly Fujis best lens) With the zoom you lose 2 stops of light and as pointed out OIS can't help with motion blur. To compare the focal lengths I can not recommend Fujis own comparison tool highly enough edit I recently returned from New York, and used the 18mm F/2 and the 35mm F/1.4 exclusively (the 18mm during the day for street/cityscapes etc and the 35mm F/1.4 at night, some photos on flickr)

It would depend on what you are taking photos of, (I don't know if the X-E2 has scenes to select from or not, as I don't own it). In automatic the camera will measure the scene and set the exposure as it feels best, which may or may not work depending on what you are shooting. If you use a semi automatic or full manual exposure it is important to know what each setting does. The exposure Triangle - Aperture - Shutter speed - ISO as simple as possible Aperture alters the depth of field (small numbers shallow depth of field but more light) Shutter speed controls motion capture (the shorter the time, the least motion is captured but less light is captured) ISO increases the sensitivity to light (lower numbers =less light but better quality image, higher numbers add grain/noise to image but more light) if you were taking a photo of a landscape, on a nice day you may want a setting like this Aperture - F/11 (you want the whole frame sharp) - Shutter speed, - variable depending on light (camera shake can be introduced if SS is to slow, use tripod if required) - ISO - 200 as you probably want the best quality image possible. If you were taking a portrait outside and wanted to blur out the background Aperture - F/1.4-F/4 (shallow enough to blur background but keep your target in focus), Shutter speed - 1/60 or faster if you are photo'ing children or things that don't stand still probably faster - ISO - as low as possible.

yeah, although i took inspiration from the work of Paul M Smith, and Kelli Connell

Changing subject, slightly I like your Painting with light "2016" picture on flickr an example of a photoshopped image that is impossible without, that i created earlier this year https://flic.kr/p/D5jNHp