Tikcus

My thoughts aint changed a lot in last 18 months, it is an interesting lens assuming it works with the 2X T/C I can't see me ever needing a 200 F/2 lens (or a 400 F/4), i'm please they are making it as choice is always good. But thinking about the practicalities if you are photographing a target 10 meters away at F/2 your DOF is only 21cm, stopping it down to F/4 gives you 41cm still not a lot to work with at that range but better. It is too short for (most) Bird photography, most would opt for the 100-400 with the 2X T/C instead too long for portraiture, guess it could be used for sports? I'd be interested to know the people that intend to buy it, what are they planning on using it for?

without examples i'm assuming you are focussing on a flat object at fixed distance to compare? As Shooting wide open on a telephoto zoom lens will give you a shallow depth of field with potentially only a few cm of sharp focus at F/2.8 @ 140mm on APSC sensor with a focus distance of 5 meters Nearest Acceptable Sharpness: 4.93 meters Furthest Acceptable Sharpness: 5.07 meters Total Depth of Field: 0.15 meters (15 cm) Where as on a wide angle lens at F/1.4 @ 16mm on APSC sensor with a focus distance of 5 meters Nearest Acceptable Sharpness: 3.18 meters Furthest Acceptable Sharpness: 11.75 meters you have a total Depth of field of 8.57 meters So without examples can only post the physics

Depending on what where you are shooting, I can't imagine exposure changes that much. However I've just tested. With the focus switch set to AFC, half button pressed, changing Aperture/Shutter speed adjusts the exposure accordingly (I didn't expect it not to, but i've never tried before)

I use it when shooting in studio, as it is a lot darker normally (in the studio), as you are using flash and with preview exposure on all you see is a black screen, with preview exposure off it allows you to compose your shot better. Use a light meter to test settings or just take some test shots But in normal use for all none studio work i have it switched on so I can see photos before i press button regards Andrew

TBH blue tooth not exciting feature (but then it's a box with a hole), but would be useful, slightly annoying when i want to send photos from camera to phone, i got to drop internet connection and wait for wifi to change

90mm is too long for my tastes, I use he 35mm F/1.4 for environmental portraits or the 60mm F/2.4. 90mm puts me too far away from the model. If you're shooting more than headshots, you need a lot of space to use the 90mm

Each to their own, personally using Macs and PC's, I'd never opt to use a mac over a PC if what I was doing needed more processing or GPU power (mostly Video Rendering in my work stream). I have no issues or problems with Windows 10, or OSX, both at rock solid stable, if the system is configured correctly. People like to blame windows for any problem, when in reality it is mostly user error that causes problems. (P.I.C.N.I.C - Problem in chair not in computer) If you only install software from reputable sources (as in pay for it not stealing it) and don't click all the flashy links that promise free stuff, you probably wont get a virus. But If you are happier using the system you know, you'd need to decide if you want to change if it adds a learning curve that you may or may not have time for. If you decide to build a new PC I'd recommend using tier one components, rather than cutting corners.

if you shoot concerts or acts on stage at less than 1/125s I'd imagine the motion blur is present on almost every photo, if that is the look you're going for that's your artist interpretation. When i shoot events I'd much rather have a usable high ISO, than be able to slow the shutter speed, as I generally do not want motion blur on the acts i'm photographing. (the exception being if I want to show movement) All IBIS or OIS does is allow you to use a slower shutter speed, on long lenses > 100mm it is an advantage being able to use a shutter speed of 1/60 seconds without camera shake. But shooting a 50mm/35mm lens (or wider) it makes no difference, as less than 1/60s motion blur will appear on anything that moves, and shooting a 35mm lens at 1/60s or faster there is no camera shake. I also do plenty of candid street photography, again never missed a shot because of no ibis, as I'd never be using a shutter speed so slow camera shake became an issue before motion blur did

This probably has a lot more todo with future Video features than photography, maybe the new Super X mount camera that was rumoured. In photography IBIS has limited usefulness (same as OIS on <100mm lens), being able to hand hold a shot at 1/4 second using a 35mm lens is of little use unless your subject is stationary You may not have camera shake but you replace that with motion blur. I honestly can't think of a usage for IBIS for photography, that the 16-50, 18-55, or 18-135 lens can not do with their OIS Architecture or landscape shots at night without a tripod, since you are using F8/11/16/22 to get the required DOF all those can be done with lens with OIS that are available now. Don't get me wrong for handheld video it will be great, but for photography I can not see the point other than a tick box item

Right I have set my XT-10 to change ISO from front button/Dial Step 1 - enter Blue Menu 2 Step 2- Button/Dial Settings Step 3 - Command Dial settings - Set to ^F v S.S Step 4 - Change Fn2 to ISO So Now, the Rear dial changes Shutter Speed 1/3 stops Front dial when button pressed brings up iso menu and dial left/right changes ISO value Unfortunately you need to press the dial in before you can change ISO, but hope this helps

i use the bottom right function button to select iso, brings up iso (still functions as wifi in playback mode)

may not officially, but HSS works fine pre-firmware update on X-T10 & X-E2s

anyone that does the update and also has an xtrans 2 body XE2s or XT10, does the HSS still work after the update on the older bodies. I am dubious about updating the firmware to gain on 1 camera but lose out on 2 thanks

Oliver the 35/1.4 is a great lens, my flickr profile linked under most of my photos are using that lens. I highly recommend for creative photography

if i read it right (it's late) that 2016 report advised net cash provided by operating activities before investments was 221.9 billion yen (approx. 2 billion US$) and an overall cash pile of 600.9 billion yen (approx. 5.5 billion US$) "Cash Flow Analysis Net cash provided by operating activities totaled ¥221.9 billion, primarily due to the increase in net income and other factors. Net cash used in investing activities amounted to ¥155.7 billion due to purchases of property, plant and equipment, acquisitions of businesses, and other factors. Thus, free cash flows—or the sum of cash flows from operating and used in investing activities—resulted in cash inflows of ¥66.2 billion, down ¥77.0 billion from the previous fiscal year. Net cash used in financing activities amounted to ¥171.7 billion, due primarily to cash dividends paid to shareholders, purchases of stock for treasury, and other factors. As a result, cash and cash equivalents as of the end of the fiscal year under review amounted to ¥600.9 billion, down ¥126.0 billion compared with the end of the previous fiscal year."

Amateurs, professionals it does not matter. Prime or zoom They all use the best lens they have available at the time. For an organised event it is a non issue as you have time to set up with anything you require If the situation is variable (or a new or unfamiliar location) a professional level (red badge) zoom is an option the 50-140 would be my ultimate choice if i was working in photo journalism , I'd probably also carry a 2nd body with a 23mm or 35mm lens as well. however this is sort of irrelevant as The OP asked if the 18-55 will do the job he requires, the answer is still yes. If a follow up question is what Prime should i invest it next, it would depend on what you want to do and what find you can't do with the XF18-55. if you find you can not get the shallow depth of field (background out of focus) you want for portraits buy a fast lens 35mm F/1.4, or the 56mm F/1.2 (or move the subject as close as you can to the camera and the background as far away as possible and shoot at 55mm F/4 on your current lens) If you can't get everything in the frame buy a wider lens If you find indoors you are pushing the iso higher than you'd like to correctly expose (leading to noise/grain) by a fast lens (a 1.2/1.4 etc) or probably cheaper to buy a flash regards Andrew

governments all over the world help big employers source finance, state interference involves using government (tax payers) money to help out private sector companies be it cash bailout or tax breaks that give them an unfair advantage. The Japanese government is effectively trying to protect domestic jobs it is not proposing using tax payers money, it is looking to Fujifilm. Fuji may look and see no benefit to them, however Nikon has a very large professional user base with world wide repair centres etc. Fuji may see some benefit into an investment into some of Nikon, or a potential merger. Fuji invest $X and gains access to Nikons repair centres, perhaps Nikon release re-branded X mount cameras and Nikkor glass in X-mount. Japan has Fuji, Nikon and Sony all competing in the camera market, however unlike other markets there is already cooperation between them, for a start they all use Sony sensors. When was the last time a Ford car used a Vauxhall engine?

Yes the lens can do all that, it may not be the best lens in all those situations but if used correctly you'll be fine

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dof-calculator.htm depth of field calculator set crop factor to 1.5, enter the actual lens focal length and aperture, along with distance to subject (focus distance)

Henri Cartier-Bresson - Europeans Silver Gelatin: A User's Guide to Liquid Photographic Emulsions by Martin Reed, Sarah Jones two of the photography books i've recently read

That would depend on how far you can walk backwards as you have the Kit lens, It is quite small, I'd be using that for any wide angle shots landscapes etc.) Since you would normally want an extensive depth of field (in the F/8-F/22 range). If i'm not photographing wildlife on a trip (birds etc) but not sure of the location, I would take 2 lenses with me the 18mm F/2.0 in my pocket/bag encase I need a wider angle shot and the 35mm F/1.4 attached to the camera. (18mm is just my go to 2nd lens out of the lenses I have, there are plenty of other lenses that could quite easily be used as a wider option). I personally don't miss the focal lengths between 18 and 35mm as I am normally happy to zoom with my feet between those focal lengths. The XF27mm is a great lens I can't compare it to the 35mm F/2 as I don't own it, but I don't use it very often as I don't find the 35mm F/1.4 heavy, it is a similar Field of View to the 35mm, and gives up 2 stops of light and F/2.8 is not bright enough for low light shooting for me, it would involve shooting at ISO 6400 instead of ISO 1600 for the same exposure, or reducing shutter speed to levels that may introduce motion blur

No I don't think no OIS will be a problem. If your taking photos with people in them you need to keep a minimum shutter speed of at least 1/60s (with children probably 1/120s) or you will have motion blur. OIS only helps with camera shake not motion blur For photographs where motion blur is not an issue (landscapes etc) to avoid camera shake try and keep the minimum shutter speed at the focal length of the lens. I can handhold the XF35 F/1.4 at 1/30s but try not to shoot at less than 1/60s to make sure of no camera shake. I'd really recommend shooting in manual mode and consider remapping a function button to ISO, so it is quicker to change, preventing the camera in one of the semi-automatic modes making a bad decision regarding Shutter speed, Aperture, or ISO (or at the very least set the boundaries of how low you want the Shutter speed to go and how high you want the ISO to go.) The camera does not know what you are wanting to capture it is just exposing the photograph correctly based on what it has metered Exposure Aperture - Controls the amount of light that reaches the sensor and the depth of field (creates separation between focus point and background) Each F-Stop movement doubles the amount of light that reaches the sensor (e.g. F/1.4 allows twice as much light as a F/2.0) As far as exposure is concerned Aperture @ F/1.4, Shutter speed @ 1/60s and ISO 200 = Same exposure as Aperture @ F/2.0, Shutter speed @ 1/30s and ISO 200 = Same exposure as Aperture @ F/2.0, Shutter speed @ 1/60s and ISO 400 Shutter Speed - Controls the amount of light reaching the sensor, and controls motion. ​Each time the shutter speed is halved double the amount of light reaches the sensor, with the trade off of motion blur (not always a bad thing, as sometimes you want to show movement, not have a perfectly frozen image) ISO - Amplifies the amount of light received at the expense of noise/grain. Personally I always try and shoot at the lowest ISO (200) as long as I can create the image I want as I'm not a fan of noise, but for example if i'm taking a low light portrait and I'm already at F/1.4 with a shutter speed of 1/60s, I would rather increase the ISO to get the correct exposure than reduce the shutter speed and have motion blur on my portrait. Noise is acceptable at quite high ISO's on the X-T10 but it depends on what is being photographed and the output medium you are wanting to use

DSCF8810 by Andrew Thompson, on Flickr X-T10 XF 35mm F/1.4 ISO 200 F/1.4 SS 1/60 Taken at dusk Hope that helps. I shoot a lot with the X-T10 and XF 35 F/1.4, check my flickr for lots more examples

I do a lot of event shooting in poor lighting conditions, my go to lens is the XF35 F/1.4, on an X-T10, I can only talk about lens I've used (I do occasionally wish for the XF56 F/1.2) I use the XF35 F/1.4 for most of my photography, it is the lens that lives on my camera - Outside portraits, street and everything else I use the 18mm F/2 if i'm walking around a city want to get more buildings/cityscapes, landscapes etc (the 18mm F/2 is small enough to sit in my pocket when the 35 F/1.4 is on my camera the 27mm F/2.8 is an interesting lens, optically there is nothing wrong with it, but I don't find either the 18 or 35 large when on the camera, the focal length sits between the two and doesn't get a huge amount of use as I find one of the other lenses just sits better with me, whether it is the lack of aperture ring, or that it is so close to the 35mm in length (a few steps forwards or back is the difference), but lacks its magic, idk, I suspect if I didn't have the XF35 F/1.4 the 27mm may have been my go to lens for everyday shooting; as you already own the 23mm the 27mm is a stop slower and a similar length personally I'd skip it. the 60mm F/2.4 is a great lens (slow to focus when doing macro work), I use this lens a lot in the studio and have no issues with focusing speeds, I suspect a great deal of focal length cross over with the XF56 though; if I didn't own the XF60 the XF56 would be top of my shopping list, but as I generally use the XF35 F/1.4 for shallow DOF portraits outside, and the XF60 F/2.4 for studio work I can't justify it. If I owned the XF56 F/1.2 I'd be tempted to either wait for the XF80mm macro lens or look at a third party solution for macro work.

I'd recommend using the Fuji X comparison tool to compare FOV http://fujifilmxmount.com/comparison/en/test-our-lenses/ If it is for landscapes, and I expect you'll be shooting at F/8 or higher, the F/1.4 of the XF16 wont make a difference, just a case of is the extra 2mm on the wide end worth it considering you already have the excellent 18-55. the 10-24 gives you much more width. You may want to consider the Samyang 12mm F/2, although i've not used it, I've heard nothing but good things about it