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glospete last won the day on June 2 2018

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About glospete

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  • Birthday February 27

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  1. Hi i can’t explain the portrait/landscape issue but I can comment on the file handling. I have 2 X-T2 bodies and to differentiate the files I use the “edit file name” feature. I have one called XT2Axxxx and the other XT2Bxxxx so that should solve that. Go to: MENU spanner, Save Data Set-Up, Edit File Name Assuming you are using Continuous file numbering (see below) when your camera clicks through 9999 images and reverts to 0001then you could change the prefix eg XT3C which would then give you 359,974 unique file names for this camera. For the issue of file renaming, check that you are using “continuous” frame numbering. This setting is relevant as to whether the camera resets the file numbering scheme when you change memory cards or reformat the current one. By setting Frame No. to “Continuous”, you are telling your camera to: “Number my files in order till you reach 9,999, then start again at “1” – no matter how many times I take my memory card out of the camera or reformat it. Set this to “Renew” though, and you've instructed the camera to: “Start numbering at “1” each time I reformat or insert a new memory card.”. I always use Continuous. Go to: MENU spanner, Save Data Set-Up, Frame No. Hope the above helps.
  2. Interesting question as that is the main feature I miss on my Fuji X cameras over my Canon 7D which I used with a Canon GP-E2 geotagger. As far as I know there is no comparable device for the X-series. I tried the Fuji App but it is flaky at best so is not really an option for me. So what I do is use my iPhone with an App called Geotag Photos 2 which creates a GPX route of my journey and then you can use something like Lightroom to link the two together and it then places the geo data in the Metadata. I have the App set to record with a minimal position change of 10 yards which works well for me. It's obviously more of a hassle than having a dedicated geotagger but it works for me. And although it is running continuously (as it records the route) it doesn't use a huge amount of battery. I carry a small power-bank but have never needed to use it whilst using this App. Details are at: https://www.geotagphotos.net Hope this helps!
  3. I also have 2 X-T2 cameras and neither exhibit what you describe! The attached photos show the camera set to 1/250 second (shows 250 in the LCD/EVF) and the other shows 6.5 seconds. I have mine set to ES but it makes no difference whether it is using ES or MS. Sorry but can't explain it further.
  4. I assume you mean that you have updated your operating system to Mojave? I am now on Mojave (I always install on a "spare" computer first to see if there are bugs) but there have been no issues at all. I use Adobe Lightroom Classic CC and Photoshop CC and both open Fuji RAW files with no problem.
  5. When I don't take a laptop I use a Hyperdrive Colorspace UDMA II drive with 1TB hard disk which has slots for SD and CF cards and has a (fairly rudimentary) 3.2" LCD screen. But it's very portable and has proved reliable so far (I've had it since 2015). I've no idea if it's still available though.
  6. No I think that you will always need to connect via the USB or microphone socket for any remote trigger. I'll let you know when I've tried mine out but it will probably be a few weeks before I get around to it.
  7. I have just bought the Hahnel Captur Remote Trigger for my X-T2 which I think will do exactly what you want. In addition I’ve bought the add-on Pro Module so I can try some creative work with laser triggering and a host of other features. As the unit has just arrived I can’t give any test results yet.
  8. I have the 18-55 and an X-T2 and have never had any issues with image quality. In fact I often crop the image quite a bit and it holds up extremely well. I also have the 35mm 1.4 (which I admit I rarely use), the 10-24 on another body (love this lens for its great perspective) and the 55-200. The latter I also don’t use too often as it makes the kit bag heavy and cropping the 18-55 often suffices. Go for the 18-55 - you’ll love it. The only downside is that it’s not water resistant.
  9. I use Expert Shield protectors from Amazon and they are perfect. I've tried a number of other makes but keep coming back to these. My current one on my X-T2 has been on for 2 years and the camera has been round the world (literally!).
  10. I had an X-E2 and a X-T1. Traded in the X-E2 for an X-T2 and much prefer it to the X-T1. Now selling my X-T1 so that I have 2 identical bodies as it can get confusing at times because of different controls, menu items etc. I have no hesitation in recommending X-T2 over X-T1 - IQ, handling, dual slots, bigger files great for out of camera cropping. I could go on .....
  11. I have v4.0 and I've posted it to my Dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/vqxzyiazjztm9c2/AAClb-ekqUJeIZK3IOOf0YW2a?dl=0
  12. Great shot but how about sharing the settings with the rest of us so we can benefit from your experience?
  13. Hi I use a LowePro TopLoader 50AWII which nicely takes my X-T2 with VPB and the 18-55mm lens. Do ensure your get the 50AWII not the 50AW as that won't fit.
  14. the first figure is the resolution (4K is 3840 pixels x 2160 lines). The second is the frames per second -
  15. Hi Jesse Congrats on the move to X-T2 - I did a similar thing in that I traded in my X-E2 and bought the X-T2 to add to my X-T1. I like to have 2 cameras, not as a back up, but because it is so easy to get dust on the sensor of mirrorless cameras I keep my 18-55mm on the X-T2 and my 10-24mm on the X-T1. That way I have access to either camera quickly without changing lenses. I can answer a few of your questions: 4K video - I use SanDisk Ultra 64GB UHS-1 Class 10 cards. These will be fine for your video although I have to say that I am not into video. Adobe Lightroom - I really like Lightroom but I would recommend upgrading to Lightroom CC from your existing 5.7.1 as there are many new features and the latest version supports all the film simulations from Fuji. I always shoot in RAW+JPEG so that I can more easily push and pull exposures. I am really impressed as to how much detail can be got from a way underexposed shot. If I'm honest the JPEG is often superfluous but it's a nice safety copy to keep. I only use the simulations in post-processing and never use them within the camera. I have Luminar 2018 (but rarely use it) and very soon it will have image management built in and a feature which allows it to read Lightroom catalogs. Watch this space! One program I do like is Intensify CK from MacPhun which I use as a plug-in for Lightroom. Have a look at Jeffrey Friedl's plug-ins for Lightroom - some really nice ones there. Batteries - I use Chillipower NP-W126 batteries and they are fine - no problems at all. And as you will already know Fuji X cameras do need a LOT of batteries. Books I would recommend: Rico Pfirstinger "Fujifilm X-T2 120 X-Pert Tips" Tony Philips Fujifilm_X-T2_v1.2 Have fun!
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