jerryy

mea culpa I should have been more clear in what I was trying to get across. The other cameras have limited functionality with Fujifilm's X Acquire, but as mawz points out, that does not include the full feature set -- namely easy to do tethering. Instead you still have to connect the camera to your computer, tablet or smart phone (via wireless or USB) and use an image importing program (from Fujifilm or other companies) to get the images. The X-T10 does not have that capability built in like the others do.

I do not think so, at least as far as using Fujifilm based software goes. The X-T10 is the only one of the X-T series that is not listed as working with their tethering softwares. This does not mean no-one out there has a way to do it, but it may be difficult because the X-T10 does not have the USB-mode setting in the firmware that all of the others in the series have.

The lensskirt does work but the circular polarizer has many other advantages: It takes up a lot less space in your gear bag , even less if you leave it on the lens. It turns washed out skies into brilliant blue skies — granted it is usually a good idea to take it off the lens if you are trying to get a multi frame panorama shot. It allows you to get photos through water surfaces — very hard to do because of reflections. A decent Tiffen polarizing filter costs around US $20 - $25. So you can experiment on a budget.

It should as long as the switch is not accidentally nudged slightly off. Have you updated the len's firmware and the X-T30's firmware to their respective latest versions?

There is a lot here to go over ... (Uh, it may be really off-topic but you may want to change your user name to just Ulrich or something to your liking. This will help keep various kinds of 'bots' from harvesting your email address and selling it to the spam and scam operators). I think Olaf or one of the admins can help you with that. Some folks post astrophotgraphy over in the Landscape and Nature sections, they may be able to help you. Your listed parameters are well within normal to prevent star trails, you might try setting DR back to 100. It sounds like you are getting a bit of lens coma aberration. If you try to use a narrower aperture, say f5.6 do you still get the streaking? (To your other question, I personally have gotten the best results by turning all of various the NR parameters OFF for night sky shots and taking care of any issues in the editing process. YMMV.) The 15-45mm is well thought of, but any copy can be a little off. As far as focusing goes, this may work: during the daytime, focus on a very distant object and get it as sharp as you can -- you should be at or near the infinity mark on the lens -- and use a pen to make a small mark on the lens. At night, use a small flashlight to let you see the mark to manually focus the lens -- side note: red light or green light allows you to keep your night sight, white light causes a bit of night blindness -- You may not need to increase the ISO much for night sky shots, some fujifilm sensors are ISO-invariant -- explaining that is waaaay beyond the scope of this answer, but the short version is ISO 800 or so gets you just as good an image as does ISO 6400 for night sky photos. These other sites may help a bit: https://photographylife.com/what-is-coma https://www.lonelyspeck.com

It sounds like your subject is backlit — the light source is behind them. Try turning on your flash if you are reasonably close to the subject. That will “even things up a bit”. The front side will now have enough illumination. (Or carry reflectors, etc. around with you.) situations like you are describing are similar to what the studio photographers face, so they have a lot of experience in those areas. And listen to George. p.s. Read The Fuji Manual — George, ..., ...., George, I am so going to borrow that line! 😄

Is this closer to what you had in mind? This is a very fast edit to recover the shadow information. There are several things to consider. As has been mentioned, the images were underexposed, probably due to the metering (it is set to be the most banal setting imaginable -- one that most folks change). Exposing on the bright building or the sky will make the trees go very dark. In reading the various posts you have placed, it seems that some of what you are encountering is the newness of the system -- getting used to something different and what you need to do to get the best out of the equipment. Truly these are not cell phones, but if you put the effort in, you will be able to get images that cell phone cameras (at the time of this writing) are not able to capture. But some of what you have described sounds like there is an issue with that particular body. While there is a menu setting that lets you turn the lcd on and off -- so that you only get information through the view finder, or automatically change it as your eye comes up to the view finder -- it does not just run off for a while then turn back on. You have to do that through the menu settings.

Which ever program you used to process these images stripped out the useful EXIF data (the settings the camera used when taking the shots); there is not much information left other than you used a HP computer with a CRT running Microsoft OS software. While you can try to adjust the luminance values, it sounds like you already have the correct answer, ---- swap the camera body out for a new one.

You can use an EXIF editor to change the camera type tag from x-pro3 to x-t3 and DarkTable will then recognize the file and let you edit it as before. Remember to change the exported tiff or jpeg file's camera type tag (and the original file's tag as well) back to x-pro3 afterwards. (I suggest x-t3 since it use the same sensor, bsi-design and x-processor type as the x-pro3 does.) Alternatively, you can submit various sample files to the DarkTable project that they can then analyze to put the required characteristics into the DarkTable app.

If you are looking for a low cost approach, you can get very good results with DarkTable, Capture One (Fuji Express version is free), RawTherapee or the Fujifilm supplied Raw File Converter EX V3.0 <-- the name is close but it is different than the Raw Studio application. Each one has their benefits as well as learning curves. The Raw File Converter EX V3.0 comes very close to matching Fuji's in-camera engine. Each of these will give you the option to convert the RAF files into TIFF or JPEG files as you wish as well as giving you quite a few development options.

July. Hot and humid. If by chance you are missing those nice fall colors, maybe this will tide you over until autumn gets here.

Excellent! Did you give them names? Mamma Cat looks like she would like you to babysit for a while.

I doubt this is due to your lens choice. There are different menu choice settings that can affect this, the top ones that come to mind are first, the DR (dynamic range) setting. If this is set to any option other than 100%, the minimum allowed ISO you can choose is moved upward. Also there is a menu setting that allows you to restrict the minimum and maximum ISO the camera can offer you. As well as some of the let-the-camera-automagically-choose options restrict the available ISO settings. edit: I should ask, you do not have the aperture cranked down to around f22 or so and are trying to film in dim lighting?

Restricting this ala the same way one sets the green box for autofocus sounds feasible as a firmware update. Hopefully, this is possible. Try dropping a note to Fujifilm via their contact pages or maybe try getting the folks over at FujiRumors to have a firmware request poll and include this feature. I understand the folks at FujiFilm read those. In the mean time, I guess try to use the touchscreen to keep the detected area on the part of the screen you most want in focus by touching the faces in that region.

Look through the user manual beginning on page 117 and on through 118, there is information explaining how to do these things. There is some more in later sections, but that is a good place to start. Note: if you do not have a copy of the manual, you can download it from Fujifilm.