jerryy

Train bridge in Bullitt County, Kentucky, USA. Crossing in Carroll County, Kentucky, USA.

B&H Photo Video has quite a few: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=fujifilm battery charger&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&ap=Y&msclkid=bce4c025ab1017491fe7a19e74182633 though I am not sure how to verify if the many reviewers are real owners. Adorama also carries quite a few, including their own in-house brand: https://www.adorama.com/l/Photography/Camera-Accessories?sel=Item-Condition_New-Items&searchinfo=fujifilm battery charger

added a p.s.

Well the camera has to have a proper battery put in it at the time. 😀 Turn the camera off, connect it to the computer, turn the computer on and a short time after the computer gets going, the green light on the back of the camera should turn on, indicating the battery is being charged. But there is something to note: the USB port on the computer must be one that supplies power, some do not, —— it is usual that most of them do though there are some that are data only and some that are power only. If you turn the camera on, battery charging stops and data stuff starts. p.s. It occurred to me after re-reading this you might be wanting to use the USB port to run the camera without worrying about the battery. I have read of people using chargers designed to charge battery packs using the USB PD port protocol (essentially 9v around 1.5a or so). I have not tried this, and while it sounds feasible in theory, you should ask a Fujifilm representative if this is okay, so that it does not mess up your camera and void the warranty.

You should be able to. The connector in the X-T3 is USB Type C 3.1 gen 1 which tops out at 5gbs. As long as the computer is at least this speed or faster, you should be able to get fairly quick transfer times (I say this because the connector is by itself just that, a connector only, the speeds being used must be checked, some devices updated to the Type C connector but kept the older USB 2 speeds). Make sure the cable also supports the speeds! As far as benefits go, this page lists some of them: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t3/connections/computer/index.html

The DISP BACK button should give you three choices, always off, some info always on, or a lot of info always on. The screen setup menus have an option whether or not this is displayed on the lcd back, the evf or both.

NGC 281 This is the equivalent of 116 minutes exposure time. NGC 281 also goes by the name of the Pacman Nebula. https://solarsystem.nasa.gov/resources/763/the-pacman-nebula/ Wocca, wocca, wocca. edit: 2022/10/24 - swapped the old image out for this new one. The time listed is for this new one.

p.s. You can try things like changing the DR to 400% and stuff like that, this setting essentially underexposes the highlights to keep them from blowing out. Some folks get good results doing that, but keep your layer merging techniques handy.

You are in for some rough sledding if you are an impatient person. (Digital) camera sensors, film, and human eyes just work differently. Here is a very short, almost glibly skipping over a lot, explanation: If you go outside at night, where there is not a lot of light pollution, after about a half hour or so, your night vision kicks in (look up rods, cones, color vision and night vision). You will be able to see somewhat better in the dark than earlier, especially if you look up at the stars in the sky. But that is about it. During this time if you left your camera running, getting an exposure, the frame will be extremely well exposed, it might look like a daylight shot or even be nearly white. Our eyes will automatically adjust white balance as well as can be expected and limit -- essentially discard any light other than what is there at the moment. Cameras -- digital sensors have a lot of individual pixels called photo-sites that act like a bucket collecting the effects from photons hitting them, it is a cumulative process meaning that the bucket just keeps on filling until it is full (white) or until the sensor is read when you take a photo. Grains in film act just about the same as the photo-sites -- close enough for the purposes of this discussion. However, (this is the part where you have to be patient). Camera makers keep improving the amount of dynamic range (difference between dark and light) the camera sensors can get in a frame during a single short term exposure, coming closer to how human eyes react. They are not there yet for the types of scenes you are wanting to photograph, but someday, well ...

Which raw converter did you use? Most of them have a lens profile option that adjusts the image to remove some CA, pincushion / barrel distortion, etc. It can get turned off and then things like this happen. Additionally, you should have the option in your converter to remove the CA that gets past the lens profile based CA removing actions. There is some in the rock wall as well. Sometimes the lens does have a problem with these types of bright, high contrast scenes.

Post away, the more the merrier!

I have a X-T30.

Well hmm, on my camera that is how it works without (and with) large indicators turned on, which, is probably a good idea, since being able to see the scene is a good thing.

Were you trying to set the ISO above 6400? The display says you have the mechanical and electronic shutters both turned on, but if I am remembering correctly, to go beyond ISO 6400 on the older X-Ts, you can use only the mechanical shutter. On the newer models, that limit is raised to 12800, and may be higher on the X-T4 and X-S10.

Make sure the battery easily slides in and out of that compartment. If it is sticky, that battery might be starting to swell, which means you will quickly need a new battery. Also make sure all of the info displays (you will need to check the manual -- the online version at Fujifilm is the same as the paper one) turn on and off.

By chance do you have your finger on the shutter button? Slightly pressing it will cause the histogram to hide so that you get to see more scene.

Try this: Make sure the PC Connection setting is set to USB Card Reader in your camera's menu settings. Connect your camera to your computer and turn it on. In the computer's Applications folder there is a program called Image Capture, start it going. The left side should have a menu called Devices, your X-T3 should be there, choose it. You should be able to see the photos (both raf and jpg) that are on the camera's cards. You can set a folder in Image Capture to use as a download folder or just use the default and then copy the images to your computer. Lightroom has had problems in the past with downloading images from cameras, this was supposed to be resolved in the latest versions, but maybe not all of the issues are fixed.

I do think that this approach (webcam over usb) should be taken with a view of what the physical limits impose. The X-T30 uses the usb 3 standard which has a theoretical 5.0gb limit — if you plug it into a similar type port on your computer, etc. You can easily run into problems if your computer is sharing that port with other usb devices while trying to push full screen, deep bit-depth, high frame rate video while trying to use those other devices, — your computer may bog down or at least have problems including dropping frames or stuttering. Setting smaller sizes, slower rates, lower bit depth, etc. may be a better choice. Even better, use the HDMI connector. You start off with over 10gb data transfer, (this is the starting point, notice the usb connector speed is “up to” which means you normally get that only under ideal circumstances). This may be troublesome if the webcam software expects the camera on the usb port, a lot of those usb webcams are not high quality video capture devices.