jerryy

You can try that 'ol rule of thumb about sharpness that was accepted wisdom in the days before image stabilization, i.e. set your shutter speed to 1 / focal length and see if you can hold it steady and get shots looking sharp. (Of course there was a lot more to it than that!) Try this on your current lens with the OIS turned off and see if it works at both ends, 1/15 and 1/50 -- as close as you can get to 1 / FL. If it works, as in you get sharp images, great. OIS is supposed to help you be able to get the same level of sharpness with slower shutter speeds, so it may or may not help you. F2.8 will give you shallower dof so you can balance what you want to try to photograph against your hand shake. Or get a tripod. 😀 OIS helps in regular situations, not just in the extremes, it depends on how much camera shake situations you run into, but it is only one of many tools, folks got plenty of great images before it came along.

I am glad to hear it is working for you. Just be careful not to joggle the aperture ring, you might find yourself jumping from f-whatever to f22. 😀 The lens focus ring direction can usually be changed, I do not know if the dial direction can be changed.

What happens when you turn the aperture ring to the A position and then use the front dial to make adjustments?

https://fujifilm-x.com/global/support/compatibility/lenses/xf2x-tc-wr/ The Fujifilm standard 2x x-mount teleconverter says it is not compatible with this lens. It ships with a special-built 1.4x teleconverter (not the standard x-mount 1.4 tc), so that you can have a 200mm and a 280mm lens. Looking at the lens and its special tc and how things stick out, it does not look like a standard tc will work. I am not aware of Fujifilm releasing a 2x tc for this lens, but it may be possible.

I do not think this lever does too many things in the movie mode, if any at all. It is more for stills, as in quickly setting all of the stills options to auto, as well as being able to put the camera into one of the scene settings. For movie mode, leaving the f-stop and shutter speed on auto is a better approach. I do not believe the auto lever picks a film simulation, per se, beyond as I mentioned the stills version of pre-programed scenes, which 'you' preset for it to jump to. I can understand the changing to a new system is a bit much at first. You can take casual videos and do as you wish using a casual editor.

It depends on the lighting, electronic shutter can have issues with banding for some types of lighting. It is also possible to get something called rolling shutter from electronic shutter. On the other hand, you get way faster shutter speeds. The two issues do not turn up as much lately, because the folks building cameras put a lot of work into preventing them, but the issues do turn up now and then, so try some test shots and make sure things look fine first.

While the card will have an impact, the camera itself can only take so many images before the buffer is filled and it must dump (write) the stored images out to the card. https://fujifilm-x.com/global/products/cameras/x-s10/specifications/ Scroll down to the section called “Continuous Shooting” and you will find your answer there.

As I recall, it is a quick way to get all of the auto settings you have in place. If you have some manual setting on, say the lens, it will apply auto to the other settings.

😉 That is an option, but sooner or later you will want to pop a different lens on it. 🤣 Auto exposure should be okay for quite a few scenes, and it sounds like you will be able to handle the other ones.

ISO 1600 is not that high with a minimum shutter speed of 1/250 depending on the f-stop you can still get very dark images. Try setting the ISO to 6400, the f-stop to 4.0 or 5.6 depending on your lens and see what happens. That trial where you had the ss at 500 can be misleading, that is way too much for a dark setting. To make sure there is nothing messed up in the camera, try manually setting the following (no auto): ss 1/180 and leave it here. f 4.0 — or whatever the widest your lens will do, and leave it here. I see you mentioning 2.5, so use that. ISO 160 then 640, then 3200 then 8000. Take the four photos, of course of the same scene, as quickly as you can, so that the lighting does not change. You should have widely differing exposures, if they are all very close, something else is going on.

Ehh, dive in the water is fine. You can go up to 200mb if you want to, just make sure the sd card you use is rated for 4k video, otherwise you will run into little glitches and gotchas that are irritating until you finally change to a better card and then they all go away. Pretty much all of your questions can be answered by doing a five to ten minute test and see what you like and then what works best for you. However, the Q Menu has been aggravating for some, in that it does not store as many options as they wanted it to do, and that was after the firmware update that reduced how touchy the button felt. I personally avoid using any auto settings except auto focus, but other folks like or hate them and may speak up if you run into troubles.

No reason why it should not. https://sahavre.fr/wp/regle-npf-rule/ http://web.archive.org/web/20200220123345/https://www.sahavre.fr/tutoriels/astrophoto/34-regle-npf-temps-de-pose-pour-eviter-le-file-d-etoiles These are exposure calculators, the second one, though an older version of the first one, is a little easier to use for English speakers. These are useful for photographing sky things while using a tripod or fence post to prop up your camera, if you are using a tracker or guider, ignore that part. Go to where it is really dark enough to photograph the Milky Way, put your camera on a tripod or tracker or guider or prop it up in some manner and have lots of fun! And show us some images after you get back.

Okay, there is a lot here in what you are asking. Try this: https://fujifilm-x.com/global/support/download/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/ It is free, supplied by Fujifilm. This raw converter gives you a lot of options for converting your files and can convert them to either jpg or tiff, both of which can be imported into image editors like PhotoShop or Affinity Photo or , …. Also, there is DarkTable, http://darktable.org which is similarly free and gives you a whole lot of raw development tools. Both of these have good tools to help get rid of color noise, chromatic aberration, luminous noise, noise noise, 😀, etc, This can help eliminate any issues the raw importer plugin may bring into your images (some of them have problems with Fujifilm raw files, they were supposedly fixed). I have not heard of any problems with that lens at f14 or so, though some folks might suggest that f16 is at the diffraction threshold, which means you will start getting little starburst spots in some exposures. Every lens has what is called its sweet spot which means that this is where it will give its best result — best sharpness, lowest coma, etc. that also means each lens has its horrible spot where it gives its worst result, everywhere else is in between those two places and it takes some using it to find the best settings. At first it might sound like heresy, but the “correct” exposure does not always mean your image’s histogram is that nice bell shaped curve. If that were the case the world would lose all of those low-key and high-key works of art. You have good low-key stuff, see if these suggestions so far help.

From the article: ”EXAMPLE: You set an ISO range of 200-3200 and a minimum shutter speed of 1/250 second. If the image will be underexposed by one stop at 1/250 and ISO3200, the camera will automatically lower the shutter speed to 1/125 second while maintaining ISO3200.” It sounds like you are actually getting what you are supposed to, the scene you are trying to get an image is so dark, the camera thinks it will be under-exposed for your settings and keeps the ISO at the maximum you have allowed it to go to and then lowers the shutter speed to try to get a good exposure. Can you post an image along with all of the settings you have put in place, as well as what you thought should happen? From what you have described so far, kicking the maximum ISO to say 6400 or 8000 will probably work for that scene.

Hopefully, this will help: https://www.jmpeltier.com/fujifilm-how-to-use-auto-iso/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture I am using this one because it covers a lot different uses of aperture. In photography, we use f-stop for aperture, it is a ratio of how far the diaphragm is open as compared to the focal length. According to most places, including the one I linked to, minimum aperture does not use focal length for its calculation, so I am uncertain as to whether or not any given focal reducer will change the minimum aperture. While it may seem counterintuitive, aperture is not affected by crop factor. The lens will always present the same circle size regardless of the sensor size. And the same ratios. If a focal reducer makes the lens circle size smaller, it will have some effect, most reducers actually give you a wider field of view, in your case, the new 35mm vs the old 50 mm, but, …, if the sensor size was already smaller than the circle the lens presented before, the new lens circle size will not matter. Uh, depth of field goes with f-stop, so that will be affected.

As mrPeter is pointing out, the adapter is acting as a focal reducer, so when used with the 50mm lens, it is no longer a 50mm lens but a 35mm lens. The maximum aperture will change as well.

A lot of folks use raw plus jpg, it has the advantage of giving you immediate ready to use images (jpg) with the option of tweaking the raw file when desired. But since the release of X Raw Studio, and also after-the-fact in-camera developing (shoot only in raw and later on, the playback menu gives you the option of making a jpg image based on the raw data just as it would have done when you shot the image) for cameras that support those options, shooting raw only saves you a lot of space. But some folks like the jpgs so much they never shoot raw, it is your camera so try some options and see what works best for you. I think by 'Film Recopies' you mean film simulations, ... , if so, then Pro-Neg-Hi is pretty good for rich color without messing up face tones, or maybe Astia, but be careful with Astia in some low key situations it can give face tones as bad as Velvia does, so keep Provia in mind as a backup. ISO 3200 should be okay, try some more and post images if they still are bad, it might just be a slight underexposure is the issue.

Fujifilm raw files have a 'small' jpeg preview file stored inside of them along with the raw data. The jpeg is built using the film simulation and camera settings you chose at the time you took the shot. The jpeg preview is used by some third party raw developers to give you an initial image. You can change any of their develop parameters as you wish and the raw data will be (is supposed to be) used to then make the final image. For example, since you are using both raw and jpg images, you can set the in-camera film simulation as black and white, import the raw and jpg files, the jpg will be black and white, the raw image will initially be black and white in your raw developer, but you can change the film simulation to one of the color ones and continue on your way to having a black and white and color version of the same image. There are plenty of third party raw developers, some paid for and some free, each has their merits of course, part of the development fun is finding which one you like for a certain type of image.

Yes, I do have a X-T30. At this moment, I have a Sandisk Extreme Pro 170MB, 64 gb card in it that works just fine for what little video I record using that camera. But I have a selection of other cards that save video files also just fine, including Transcend and Lexar. But they are all rated as being fast enough for 4k recording, the slower cards made by those same companies can only record 640 or 1080p not 4k. The rating matters.