jerryy

One thing to add to what Herco and claude are saying, be careful about confusing correct focus with apparent bad sharpness from low contrast. Even the most well focused, sharp images can look soft if the contrast is low. Use the image processing software to boost the contrast a bit and see what a difference that makes. It used to be that folks would import images into PhotoShop and the first thing they would do is apply their secret sauce remedy of Unsharp Mask filter for all their images to make them look “sharper”. You can get the same effect by just using a bit of local contrast enhancement without needing to have the best focusing sharpest lens money can buy. Of course, good lens technique does help. If you put your camera on a tripod and the images are not much different than the handheld one, try the image processing approach.

p.p.s. Used Fujifilm lenses, Canon and Nikon and Tamron and Sigma and Konica-Minolta and etc. etc. with adapters. Samyang / Rokinon, etc. and other come in x-mounts. If you look, there are plenty of good - great lenses for all kinds of budgets, even mine! 😀

I am glad to hear things are working. Yup, even fast wifi is still slow for moving the large images, the newest latest, greatest version of wifi will eventually make its way into reasonably priced gear so that we can use it. I would dread trying to move the big GFX files from the camera to the computer using b/g/n even ac/ad wifi versions. Did you try using the cable? p.s. Please post more images!

Hello again, I believe that you are correct, now that the hardware is chatting with each other, next up is getting the software talking as well: http://app.fujifilm-dsc.com/en/pc_autosave/appendix.html#a02 What you said earlier made me think of that old saying about treasure maps, ‘it would be nice if they would just say go here, collect the treasure, spend wisely and live happily ever after, but where is the fun in that’? according to the instructions, you are at the stage where you register the software on your computer to the software on the camera.

Give entering the password a try. If your router has any kind of protection turned on WPA2, etc. then trying to connect will seem to work, but ultimately go nowhere. The password part is what stops random passerby folks from joining your networks.

Do you have firewalls turned on in your pc networks? Entering the router’s name and password manually will get the first half going as you have seen, but the computers also have constraints to keep theirselves “safe”. One way to investigate is to turn off the connection to the internet, then lower all of the firewalls, etc. until you are able to connect, then turn the protections back on until you find the problem section, fix it, then turn all of the protections back on and finally reconnect to the internet. p.s. ‘Connect via wps button’ is one of those things that is a good idea, but in practice is dicey.

Bluetooth was used to set up the connection, and wifi was used to then do the heavy lifting. I will try this week to see how it goes for my setup and let you know, but it will be the middle or so of the week.

I am hoping they will update X-Acquire to give the X-T30 the same abilities the X-T3 has.

The (announced) upcoming firmware version 1.40 will let you use the X-T30 as a web cam, so that may also allow at some point, single frame tethering.

You should be able to connect the computer to the camera using the USB cable and pull the images onto the computer: http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t30/connections/computer/index.html http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t30/menu_setup/connection_setting/index.html the connection mode in the menu settings must be set to USB CARD READER for this to work. That also allows your computer’s os to make copies if you want.

George!!! I will be able to take a look later this week, it is one of those recreational impossibilities I attempt now and then. p.s. Welcome Louise!

George said ...”For transferring pictures from the camera to the computer, I would say the best thing to do is to use a card reader, that is the fastest and most reliable way of doing it.” PC Auto Save worked okay when folks connected their camera to their computer using a cable, but things got weird when the technology moved over to wifi and bluetooth. What George is saying is good advice as far as getting your photos onto your computer in the fastest, least aggravating way possible, while saving the wifi for later this week.

The external one that came with the camera. Leave that one in as much as possible. If you can, get an extra battery or two and keep them all charged. Then when you are out shooting and the battery you are using gets low, swap it with another and continue shooting. The internal battery will keep your settings from disappearing while you swap the batteries, but it is not made for holding those settings long term, for that you need to keep the big battery in the camera. The X-T30 allows you to charge the external batteries while they are in the camera, but it usually faster to use an external charger. You might be able to find a X-T10 (new or used) charger for not much money and use it — the batteries are the same and will work in the same charger. As far as extra batteries goes, lot of folks have their favorites regarding price and capacity, you should be able to find ones from Wasabi Power for reasonable prices — they also sell chargers.

Actually, you need to pretty much leave the big battery in the camera as much as possible. If you leave it out, the internal battery will lose its charge after a while and all of your settings will go back to the fresh from the factory setup. Leaving the big battery out for a while is an alternative way to do a full reset in case things go very wrong. The internal small battery is there to keep the settings while you do battery swaps, etc.

Oh sure. (I put 'open thread' in the first image, usually that means the thread is open to anyone that wants to add to it.) Welcome to the forums, I am looking forward to seeing your images!

Thank you. It is a single frame.

You seem to like challenges. Try looking into a dew heater system. Astronomers and astro-photographers use them to keep dew and frost off of their telescopes, cameras and electronic gear. You can build your own or buy commercial versions, but in either version, check to make sure the components can handle those types of temperatures, more of making sure you get industrial-grade rather than lightweight-grade. If there is any moisture in the the air in the lens, it will condense and freeze, you risk shattering the aperture blades or destroying the motor. Also the lubricants will be more like dried goop than lube. So you will need to keep the lenses warmer. Anything that will help you operate the camera remotely such as Raw Studio or web-cam software will make life easier, at those temps you could damage your skin or eyes or hands trying to look through the view finder. So extra cables because they tend to break instead of bend when that cold. Perhaps buy or build a small pin-hole camera and take it as a backup. Fewer moving parts. They still work and film does not mind cold as much. Have fun and come back safely.

(open thread) Carl Sandberg said that "The fog comes on little cat feet". Sneaky, sneaky, sneaky. Sneaky stuff that fog.

For what it is worth, there is a person that goes by the name of Morris that has some approaches for birds in flight using long lenses on a X-T3 that may be of some help: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1594539/0 He is using a three box zone focus with center switching on continuous mode ... there are several pages in that thread with lots of discussion.

It sounds like either focus check or focus zoom is being activated. There are several ways this can happen; if the touch screen focusing is active, AF + MF is active, the menu setting for focus check and focus zoom are turned on, the back dial is set to turn them on and your thumb is close to the dial when pressing the shutter button — you might touch it without realizing it.