jerryy

part two

There is one thing I have never gotten clear in my mind about Fujifilm using the term Image Count. I am not sure if that includes images gotten with only the mechanical shutter or if it includes ones obtained with the electronic shutter. I suppose it is easy to fire off several shots with only the ms engaged, several with only es engaged, and then some more with ms + es engaged and check the counts to see. Maybe some day down the road when I get really curious.

Look for the EXIF key named "Image Count". You will probably have to look at the EXIF data for one of the RAF files or it may be in one of the in-camera made JPEGs. A lot of image processors will strip this key along with many others out of the EXIF data that does get saved to the TIFF or JPEG or ... images they create.

The top dials all being in ‘Auto’ are probably acting to limit your options. Try manual settings re: https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/quick-start-guides/quick-start-guide-fujifilm-x-t3/ scroll down to the Shooting Video section and give those options a try. Keep in mind the note about f-log files needing color grading. edit: p.s. If you are curious as to how to get the 1 / 48 shutter speed, this video explains how to do that as well as some other stuff:

A couple of things ... In the top right side of the post, you will see three dots just like this --> ... Once logged in, for posts that you are the author, click on the three dots icon and you can edit the post. Put the cursor just to the right of the image you want to delete and press the delete key and the image will be deleted. Also, at the bottom of the editing box will be the images uploads section with plus and trash can icons for each image. Click on the trash can icon to remove it from the uploads. It is possible that the decision to maintain backwards compatibility with older computers outweighed the thought of only using the latest USB power supply abilities that would allow the camera to not draw the battery down. Right now, you can use the camera with older computers as long as you get the right kinds of cables, imagine how folks would feel if they were told they had to buy the very latest, new computers with USB-C PD ports in-order to use the camera with the computer.

part one

http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-s10/first_step/battery_charge/ At the bottom of the page, this is mentioned as happening, so it sounds like that you got it back closer to ‘normal’.

“However, the X-T20 also features a full Auto mode that can be accessed with a flip of a switch. When Auto is engaged, none of the dials serve any purpose and the camera will simply attempt to use all the best settings. It’s worth noting that RAW is not available in the Auto mode.” https://admiringlight.com/blog/review-fujifilm-x-t20/#:~:text=However%2C the X-T20 also features a full Auto,RAW is not available in the Auto mode. It sounds like stay out of full auto mode and you should be okay to use raw.

If you look on page 238 in the manual, [USB. POWER SUPPLY SETTING] the options are on and off. That option allows you to charge the battery while connected to computers. There is a warning about Lightning connectors (iPhone) and similar devices not being able to supply power. So, when combined with the section "Connecting To Smart Phones" found here: http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-s10/connections/computer/ it sounds like the camera believes with all of its heart that you connected it to an iPhone. Maybe use one of those USB-C power delivery only cables.

This may help you a little: https://www.apotelyt.com/compare-camera/fujifilm-x-pro2-vs-fujifilm-x-t3

Print one of those Instagram developed images onto photo paper. Print one of your C1, etc. developed images onto photo paper. Which one would you rather hang on the wall?

I used the Fujifilm 55-200mm for those shots. In good lighting it is really good.

Hmm, there are several thing to consider. Along with what Herco mentions; 1.) The X-T2 can certainly be used for sports, and will give you great shots, but a-lot of folks will use the 50-140 lens instead because it is a lot faster (focusing) than is the 55-200 on that body. Moving to a X-T3 or X-T4 will move the 55-200 faster (X-T30 also) 2.) For shooting the 55-200 on the X-T2, in Single shot mode, for shooting wide open as you are, try setting the focus box as small as possible instead of wide. That will help it focus faster and stay off the rail. 3.) Try going fully zone focusing; here is a link to the Morris settings: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1594539/0 CH on the dial, C on the body, OIS on, lens wide open Top button or back button focus as you wish. I think you can go to ISO 6400 with hardly any, if any, noise for the lighting you have in your example shot. If you can keep the ss at 1/1000 or less, you might not need to. I probably should have changed that cat photo to SRGB instead of leaving it as Adobe RGB, but well ... minimal processing.

I take it you have installed the software on your Mini. Can you look at this page and tell me how far you have gotten? http://app.fujifilm-dsc.com/en/pc_autosave/appendix.html#a02

Which software are you trying to use? Also, keep in mind that you can set the Menu >> Connection Setting >> PC Connection Mode >> USB Card Reader. Connect the camera to the mac mini using the usb-c cable, turn the camera on, open Image Capture (Mac HD >> Applications > Image Capture) select your camera, open the various folders to get to the one you want and then transfer the images over to your computer. No other software needed.

First; It is possible you have a bad copy of the lens. It looks like you posted a lot of information, but could you tell us some more? Which body are you using? Is the lens OIS turned on? CL or CH? What happens when you try fully manual as in set ISO, aperture and shutter speed? Do you get focus lock notification when doing so? It sounds like you are trying zone focus, but what are the rest of the zone focus parameter settings? What are your settings for face and eye focus? Are you also using touchscreen focusing? Here is a fast one I took just for example, in a very dark room. X-T30, 190mm, ISO 12800, ss 1/250, f4.8 no noise reduction or sharpening, etc. etc. using Morris' zone settings (written about elsewhere) on CH. Rescaled for internet, just minimal processing only. The subject refuses to stay still. The initial focus point was on the head. I use the regular top button for initial focus and then 'mash' it to get a burst of images. The example I am using is not the best of the burst, just an average shot, The reason to use such bad settings is that the results (focus etc.) are better in better lighting. The reason for the questions, is that the newer bodies have faster af for the same lens than do the older bodies. The zone focus setting also determine how fast the focus point moves, etc.

Your questions are not silly at all, very few of us are born already knowing how everything works. 😀 If you run into some setting combination that you cannot seem to undo using the menus and the ‘reset everything’ menu choice does not help, pull the battery and leave it out, set the camera on the shelf for a few days, all of the setting will go back to their initial, fresh from the factory settings, so that can help you keep your sanity during those times when you are certain your camera has a mind of its own. But do pull it from time to time and examine the contacts on the battery and in the body to make sure they do not get discolored, that would be a sign of a possible bad battery.

I shall try to do better in the future. 🙃

😇 No one told you when you logged in today there would be maths, physics and engineering involved? 😄 😊🙂

That one is more complicated, lots of devices share the 2.4 ghz spectrum, microwave ovens, wireless phones, cell phones, laptops, your neighbor’s devices, etc. Your router chats with the camera and decides the speed to use to balance how much data can be transferred in the available spectrum. You may be able to dedicate a little used channel to the transfer to get higher speeds, but you will have to much around with the router’s software.

If the camera had a fan, it probably would not be a problem to use the 5ghz speeds, but alas and alackaday the small bodies are not built for that. Heat building up on the inside must move across the air gaps to get to the exterior body to then dissipate. Newton’s Law of Heating and Cooling tells us that it will take some time to do that, which means the camera could cook itself to death, so thermal shutdown is used to save it.