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Found 5 results

  1. Hey guys! I'm going to Iceland at the end of August and for that journey I'm looking for a (manual) tele lens in the range from 85mm to 100mm... Streets #1 / Iceland with X100T I would really like to have the Fujinon 90mm but I think it's too expensive for me at the moment (Iceland will also...) As you see in the title I want to use the lens only for landscapes so I don't need a fast lens. It's just important that the corner sharpness is high enough for the 24mp sensor and the CAs should be easy to remove afterwards. If you have any recommendations for me - let me know! Have a nice Sunday and many greetings from Hamburg!
  2. Picked up this lens this afternoon, and took a few snaps. Perhaps not the best compositions, but they give you a good idea of what it's like. So far I'm thrilled with it! If you're interested in seeing at higher resolution... https://tinyurl.com/yccgd7nx https://tinyurl.com/ybjo8dsc
  3. I just purchased the Fujifilm X-T10 kit from Amazon. The two lenses that came with the kit do not have the "A - aperture icon" switch. Does that mean I only have Aperture Priority in Program mode? I can still dial and shift the aperture, but A never appears in the display and P does. Hmmmmmm.
  4. I've been trying out a Helios M44 58mm manual lens with an X-E2 and been having problems with focusing accurately. 1. With the Helios my results are proving hit and miss. When I set to infinity according the focus dial, it doesn't seem to guarantee sharp shots at a distance. Close up shots seem better but I've just started trying the helios and have been surprised at how many shots focused on more distant subjects have not been very sharp. Why would this be? 2. Is the x-e2 viewfinder not wysiwyg for focus purposes? ie if I have confirmed accurate focus through the viewfinder (with the help of focus peaking), all other things being ok (no vibration, lens good enough etc) should the resulting shot be sharp as indicated through the viewfinder? So, even if the lens is not correctly focusing based on the ring callibration, should I not still get a sharp shot? 3. if the solution is adjusting the helios lens, can anyone help with the easiest and safest way to do this myself. 4. I also get the feel the depth of field based on chosen aperture is often not as deep as I'm expecting e.g even f11 to 16 is not giving me most in focus. I'm assuming the lens correctly stops down on the x-e2 to the chosen aperture? Would this be a correct assumption? While I'd like the focus ring to be accurately callibrated, I'd not be so worried if I merely checked focus through the viewfinder or on screen and got correct focus. Any help getting this combo to work well would be appreciated. I already enjoy the portrait possibilities of the lens but would like to be confident in using it more broadly. thanks
  5. I will buy the X-Pro2 soon and I intend to use it with Lens Turbo II and Minolta MD lenses as I do with my X-Pro1 now. ​I'm wondering how well is the Color digital split image manual focus assist mode implemented in using manual legacy glass? Has anyone tried it? I owned an X100T and used the ERF quite often, actually most of the time, but did not like the focus by wire implementation. The fact that sometimes I could not distinguish if the focus was tack sharp or a bit off, made me use the EVF more than I actually wanted to. The split image option was sometimes unreliable, especially if there were complex patterns included in the scene as the focusing screen was B&W. ​I'm expecting really good performance out of manual focusing aids in the X-Pro2, because it will actually be the only method used for focusing the Minoltas. Also... Is the split focusing aid also kind of ''pixelated'' (not high resolution) as it was the case with the X100T? ​Thanks for your replies guys! ​Have a good one!
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