jerryy

Welcome to Fuji World, it is colorful and then some! 😃 It depends on what lens I have on the camera when I encounter the flowers, I have no special emphasis, unless I really do not think the lens is appropriate for the setting and have time to think it is safe to change it without getting dust into everything. Telephoto lens actually are good at landscapes! Everything I have seen posted for images taken using that new lens you have looks really good. I think you will enjoy it. I think this one was taken at f11, I will check later and let you know if not. I have not tried the 80mm macro lens yet, but the 60mm macro is pretty good. Thank you for your kind words.

Thank you, it has been fun keeping up with the troll family. They do not move very fast, but then neither do I. 🙂

There is DarkTable : http://darktable.org and Fujifilm Raw Converter: https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/products/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/ Both of these are free and very worthwhile. It seems strange to process jpegs other than to resize them. It certainly can be done with decent results if you saved the original in-camera at 100% quality and only edit them once; never edit - save as jpeg, reopen, edit -save as jpeg, and so on because the lossy format will degrade the image so much the image gets ugly. Perhaps it is better to tune your in-camera settings to give you the desired outcome. The raw converters will let you experiment with various choices and not damage the original. Since Fujifilm released X Raw Studio, capturing raw + jpg is not as needed since one can now just connect the camera to the computer and use X Raw Studio if there is a need for the camera made jpg version, which in turn, saves space on the camera card while shooting.

i tried it to make sure the thing worked. For me, using a usb / thunderbolt card reader works better and is a lot faster at moving the image data over to the computer.

There is the issue of power, some hubs have a "brick" power supply and others are powered by the host port which will quickly drain a camera battery since the camera usb host port would be required to give each port on the hub enough power to meet the USB specs -- the camera battery does not stand a chance. Also there is the bandwidth issue, each port on the hub is given data speeds that are a portion of the total the camera port can deliver. According to the USB specs, depending on the device you are trying to attach to the hub port, that portion may be even further restricted so that the main port is not overwhelmed trying to handle the possible data transfer requests. In a manner of speaking, you could starve a program you are trying to feed stills and / or video data to from the camera, if you pass the data through a hub instead of directly.

Tethering options are limited for the X-T30. if you have the latest firmware version installed (v 1.40) ---- https://fujifilm-x.com/global/support/download/firmware/cameras/ you are supposed to be able to use the camera as a web-cam.

open thread.

It does not look like a standard tripod collar with quick release will fit this lens. You may be able to use something like this: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/554350-REG/Manfrotto_293_293_Telephoto_Lens_Support.html/?cnxclid=16173288597642086376410070301008005 But these are getting tricky to find. Once you know the size, you may be able to adapt what are called guide scope rings: https://www.highpointscientific.com/telescope-accessories/mounts/telescope-mount-accessories/mounting-plates-tube-rings-accessories/telescope-mounting-rings Once you get things worked out, show us some photos!

You did not mention which lens you are using. This may help: http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t30/peripherals_and_options/lenses/index.html (Some lenses have aperture rings and some do not.)

I am glad to read that things are working.

I am not having any issues getting both raf and jpg files saved for either Acros or Monochrome at ISO 160 (or lower or higher). Do you have something put into one of the My Menu spots that you may be activating by touching the appropriate fn button?

You have something else going on. Raw + Fine (jpg) saves both a raf and a jpg when using ISO 160, 200, (and the lower ones and the higher ones) on my camera. Which type of bracketing were you trying to do?

For some Fujifilm cameras, the color space affects the view seen through the evf differently than the lcd back-screen (old problem). Using the wider Adobe color space instead of the sRGB color space gave similar results to both, so the evf was being fed a different data stream; which stream fed the displayed histogram (lcd vs evf) was not clear. Hence use the wider one. Of course Adobe RGB is not good for jpegs except when the monitor correctly shows the colorspace, but Adobe RGB is better for raw. Even better is ProPhoto RGB and ever better is XYZ.

Hello Herco, Rico Pfirstinger is chock full of very good tips and tricks no doubt. His information helps in a lot of situations. But he got dragged over on DPReview about that comment because he provided no basis or context for his comment. Actually, if you use the section you quoted to try to set the menu option for a X-T2, you would not be able to because it is called Preview Pic. Effect on that camera and turning it on or off is exactly backwards to later cameras where it is called Natural Live View. The original poster is concerned with raw file quality vs imputed histogram effects. But generically the same question can be asked for all three set-ups: 1) jpeg only: set your basic menu choices to support the simulation you are using. Turn Natural Live View OFF (Preview Pic. Effect ON) and use the L or RGB histogram as a close guide. 2) raw only: set your basic menu choices to be flat and wide to support raw (tone controls at 0, auto white balance, etc. embedded jpeg image to be ehh, Provia, Eternal, or Pro-Neg Standard -- these are fairly flat. it would be nice if we had ProPhoto color space or better yet XYZ color space, but we do not so set that to Adobe and not sRGB, etc.) (Natural Live View ON - Preview Pic. Effect OFF). Then the EVF histogram will be close (not perfect, it is an evf, but close) to what the raw file will be. 3) raw plus jpg: this is the tricky one. Depends on the simulation and which you favor more, the raw or the jpeg. Always a trade off.

This is close but not completely true, ... “Turning the Natural Live View on, reduces the impact the Film Simulation mode has on the histogram, so it’ll mirror more closely what it’ll look like when you import it into your editing software.” https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/exposure-center/get-the-most-out-of-your-histogram/ As also mentioned here: “With Natural Live View ON, the histogram is a much closer representation of the raw exposure.” https://fujiframe.com/articles/natural-live-view-ettr/ It is not perfect, but considering you are looking at a lcd preview (back screen or evf) it is difficult to see any difference. (edit) This page goes into much more detail: https://www.thewanderinglensman.com/2018/12/a-fujifilm-x-t3-feature-ive-come-to.html beginning with the section “With the X-T3, there is a setting called Natural Live View.”

According to this: https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/1430/v1/en/contents/TP0000301867.html?search=exposure compensation When you use [Manual Exposure], you can compensate for the exposure only when [ISO] is set to [ISO AUTO]. you are not in fully manual mode because the ISO is set to AUTO. Turn one of the three major settings, ISO, Aperture, Shutter Speed to auto and then see what you get when playing with the exp. comp. dial. This works the same on Fujifilm as it does on Sony and Nikon and all of the others that offer it as an option.

What you are proposing is adding a lot of extra steps and introducing more stressful ways for thing to go wrong even in settings such as landscape photography where usually folks are not in a hurry. For fast moving situations, that could be a disaster. mrPeter is showing you a good way to achieve what are looking for: natural live view. https://fujiframe.com/articles/natural-live-view-ettr/ “Turning Natural Live View ON disables the visual effects of in-camera JPG processing. This includes film simulation, white balance, shadow/highlight adjustments. Now the image you see is in the viewfinder and LCD is much closer to the raw output.”. If you want a different simulation than the default jpeg the camera gives you, quite a few raw developers offer the other Fujifilm choices or allow you to use ones that various people have came up with to get close to the film versions. If you look around the forum you can find the recipes listed.

Nature is getting Spring ready to go.