jerryy

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FujiFilm raw files have a small jpeg image stored in the raw data that is made using the current camera settings, including the chosen film simulation. A lot of raw image processors use this as a preview image for the raw file -- a sort of starting point. Your raw processor should allow you to make any changes to the file, many allow you to change the film simulation as well, so that you could have a black and white jpeg and use the raw file to make a color file.

Yup, it is very tricky to use focus bracketing for birds in flight photos 😀. But, fluorescent lighting can still cause flickering or banding, usually it is easier to use the mechanical shutter with indoor lighting. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/video/tips-and-solutions/flicker-free-lights-and-why-they-are-important-you

For some reason, this one is not showing.

Okay, technically just after sunset. but the last of the sunlight is still coloring the clouds moving in. The "star" in the lower mid section (just below the tree branch) is Jupiter.

You did not mention the room’s size or the distance the camera is away from your intended interest point. Those two parts can really, really determine which lens will work well for you. But just taking a wild guess, it could be that you are wanting a close up, sort of architectural style shot, … the XF 8-16mm lens could work, it gives really good results, with essentially no fish-eye effect throughout its range, but it is not low cost. If you have a local camera shop, or are okay with renting via the Internet, renting one might work well for your budget. There are 12mm lenses (Samyang / Rokinon gets rave reviews) that maybe wide enough for your project that are affordable. It is possible to use a 8mm fish-eye lens, also low cost, to also get wide angle shots, if you hold it exactly horizontal to the scene, the fish-eye effect is minimized and you can use de-fishing software to reduce the effect even further, but I do not recommend this approach as anything close to optimal.

Sony makes a similar 16-50mm power zoom.

By chance did you used to be an Olympus camera fan? They had some power zoom lenses. The XF 18-55mm does not have that ability, it is manual zoom all the way.

??? The "A" stands for auto -- as in the camera body controls the aperture setting. Some lenses have a switch with the "A" and another small symbol that stands for manual control using the aperture ring. Other lenses just have the "A" and then the f-stops on the ring but the "A" still stands for auto.

Just to double check, do you have the menu setting PC CONNECTION MODE set to USB CARD READER? I recall this one defaults to something else, so you have to set it.

August's full moon goes by a lot of names, including the Sturgeon Moon, the Green Corn Moon, the Raksha Bandhan Moon, Nikini Soya, and the end of the Esala Perahera festival. It is called the Sturgeon moon because during this time of the year, there is supposed to be lots of sturgeons out swimming around. Here is a link to some more information: https://solarsystem.nasa.gov/news/1390/august-2020-the-next-full-moon-is-the-sturgeon-moon/

After having some time to look into this, the lever does affect the movie setting: It will put the settings from the Advanced SR Auto mode into optimizing the movie based upon the scene. This is in Chapter Four, on page 48 in the user manual. The scenes are found on page 63.

Beautiful!

You can try that 'ol rule of thumb about sharpness that was accepted wisdom in the days before image stabilization, i.e. set your shutter speed to 1 / focal length and see if you can hold it steady and get shots looking sharp. (Of course there was a lot more to it than that!) Try this on your current lens with the OIS turned off and see if it works at both ends, 1/15 and 1/50 -- as close as you can get to 1 / FL. If it works, as in you get sharp images, great. OIS is supposed to help you be able to get the same level of sharpness with slower shutter speeds, so it may or may not help you. F2.8 will give you shallower dof so you can balance what you want to try to photograph against your hand shake. Or get a tripod. 😀 OIS helps in regular situations, not just in the extremes, it depends on how much camera shake situations you run into, but it is only one of many tools, folks got plenty of great images before it came along.

I am glad to hear it is working for you. Just be careful not to joggle the aperture ring, you might find yourself jumping from f-whatever to f22. 😀 The lens focus ring direction can usually be changed, I do not know if the dial direction can be changed.

What happens when you turn the aperture ring to the A position and then use the front dial to make adjustments?

https://fujifilm-x.com/global/support/compatibility/lenses/xf2x-tc-wr/ The Fujifilm standard 2x x-mount teleconverter says it is not compatible with this lens. It ships with a special-built 1.4x teleconverter (not the standard x-mount 1.4 tc), so that you can have a 200mm and a 280mm lens. Looking at the lens and its special tc and how things stick out, it does not look like a standard tc will work. I am not aware of Fujifilm releasing a 2x tc for this lens, but it may be possible.

I do not think this lever does too many things in the movie mode, if any at all. It is more for stills, as in quickly setting all of the stills options to auto, as well as being able to put the camera into one of the scene settings. For movie mode, leaving the f-stop and shutter speed on auto is a better approach. I do not believe the auto lever picks a film simulation, per se, beyond as I mentioned the stills version of pre-programed scenes, which 'you' preset for it to jump to. I can understand the changing to a new system is a bit much at first. You can take casual videos and do as you wish using a casual editor.