jerryy

p.s. You can try things like changing the DR to 400% and stuff like that, this setting essentially underexposes the highlights to keep them from blowing out. Some folks get good results doing that, but keep your layer merging techniques handy.

You are in for some rough sledding if you are an impatient person. (Digital) camera sensors, film, and human eyes just work differently. Here is a very short, almost glibly skipping over a lot, explanation: If you go outside at night, where there is not a lot of light pollution, after about a half hour or so, your night vision kicks in (look up rods, cones, color vision and night vision). You will be able to see somewhat better in the dark than earlier, especially if you look up at the stars in the sky. But that is about it. During this time if you left your camera running, getting an exposure, the frame will be extremely well exposed, it might look like a daylight shot or even be nearly white. Our eyes will automatically adjust white balance as well as can be expected and limit -- essentially discard any light other than what is there at the moment. Cameras -- digital sensors have a lot of individual pixels called photo-sites that act like a bucket collecting the effects from photons hitting them, it is a cumulative process meaning that the bucket just keeps on filling until it is full (white) or until the sensor is read when you take a photo. Grains in film act just about the same as the photo-sites -- close enough for the purposes of this discussion. However, (this is the part where you have to be patient). Camera makers keep improving the amount of dynamic range (difference between dark and light) the camera sensors can get in a frame during a single short term exposure, coming closer to how human eyes react. They are not there yet for the types of scenes you are wanting to photograph, but someday, well ...

Which raw converter did you use? Most of them have a lens profile option that adjusts the image to remove some CA, pincushion / barrel distortion, etc. It can get turned off and then things like this happen. Additionally, you should have the option in your converter to remove the CA that gets past the lens profile based CA removing actions. There is some in the rock wall as well. Sometimes the lens does have a problem with these types of bright, high contrast scenes.

Post away, the more the merrier!

I have a X-T30.

Well hmm, on my camera that is how it works without (and with) large indicators turned on, which, is probably a good idea, since being able to see the scene is a good thing.

Were you trying to set the ISO above 6400? The display says you have the mechanical and electronic shutters both turned on, but if I am remembering correctly, to go beyond ISO 6400 on the older X-Ts, you can use only the mechanical shutter. On the newer models, that limit is raised to 12800, and may be higher on the X-T4 and X-S10.

Make sure the battery easily slides in and out of that compartment. If it is sticky, that battery might be starting to swell, which means you will quickly need a new battery. Also make sure all of the info displays (you will need to check the manual -- the online version at Fujifilm is the same as the paper one) turn on and off.

By chance do you have your finger on the shutter button? Slightly pressing it will cause the histogram to hide so that you get to see more scene.

Try this: Make sure the PC Connection setting is set to USB Card Reader in your camera's menu settings. Connect your camera to your computer and turn it on. In the computer's Applications folder there is a program called Image Capture, start it going. The left side should have a menu called Devices, your X-T3 should be there, choose it. You should be able to see the photos (both raf and jpg) that are on the camera's cards. You can set a folder in Image Capture to use as a download folder or just use the default and then copy the images to your computer. Lightroom has had problems in the past with downloading images from cameras, this was supposed to be resolved in the latest versions, but maybe not all of the issues are fixed.

I do think that this approach (webcam over usb) should be taken with a view of what the physical limits impose. The X-T30 uses the usb 3 standard which has a theoretical 5.0gb limit — if you plug it into a similar type port on your computer, etc. You can easily run into problems if your computer is sharing that port with other usb devices while trying to push full screen, deep bit-depth, high frame rate video while trying to use those other devices, — your computer may bog down or at least have problems including dropping frames or stuttering. Setting smaller sizes, slower rates, lower bit depth, etc. may be a better choice. Even better, use the HDMI connector. You start off with over 10gb data transfer, (this is the starting point, notice the usb connector speed is “up to” which means you normally get that only under ideal circumstances). This may be troublesome if the webcam software expects the camera on the usb port, a lot of those usb webcams are not high quality video capture devices.

The image captures are strictly video only. As i mentioned, single image capture is not (yet) implemented, though these functions should be feasible in other programs based upon having the features available in the Remote Camera App. for example, gphoto2 --list-config lists a toggle switch that turns bulb capture mode on or off, but it is currently set to read-only mode. GPhoto2 is a front end for libgphoto2. The library itself is usually used by the various applications such as the KStars program I wrote about. Those programs tend to not give you direct access to the commands they use, but you can use gphoto2 to get at those: http://gphoto.org/doc/remote/ The documentation is a little open-ended as many open source projects tend to be. You will need to scroll all the way to the end of the page i linked to in my reply to YOUTA to find out the maintainer has added the X-T30's live view capabilities to their listing, but the general documentation has not been updated to reflect that. The camera uses the PTP language, so your system may need a generic PTP camera driver to go outside of the Zoom world. I used it in KStars EKOS module to record live view video, the program automatically turned it into the .ser format, and saved it. All i had to do was click on the start / stop buttons. This was with the camera's Connection Setting set to X Webcam, I have not tried the other USB video options (I have read those are there for controlling the camera using gimbals, etc.).

This sounds like a Windows problem, it works in Linux and as far as I have tested, macOS. I have used KStars with my X-T30 to record videos as .ser files which then can be stacked in programs such as FireCapture. I got the linux setup working first on my desktop system (Mint) and then on my Raspberry Pi (Astroberry) and then a brief test on my mac system. If you can get gphoto2 to run on your Windows box, this command: gphoto2 --capture-movie --stdout | ffplay - will put up a movie in the viewer for you. I am still waiting for single frame capture — that would help me cut out the current clunky way of using remote camera app as a go between. https://github.com/gphoto/gphoto2/issues/196

Starting with the v1.40 firmware update, the X-T30 was given some webcam support. This continued in the v1.41 firmware update. If you use the camera remote app, you can also get single image support (there are still some limitations, but it does work).

Look up!

It's raining in the meadow... But, on the hillside, the sun shines bright...

Thank you. One state north of there. These hail from Kentucky.

Perhaps the codec for Fujifilm .RAF (X-S10) was not updated. Try this: https://fujifilm-x.com/global/support/download/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/ Install this one from Fujifilm, it should have all of the up to date codecs.It is free, plus, you get a decent raw converter program.