Jump to content

Sharkey4711

Members
  • Posts

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Sharkey4711's Achievements

  1. This a confusing Q&A set of posts. Dpi - references the number of Dots per Inch used by a digital inkjet printer (although 72dpi was the standard used for computer displays) and consequentially used in digital photograph postings on the web. Ppi (pixels per inch) is a defining unit for digital image sensing density of a cameras sensor and any digital out put of a digital lab after editing and file type for export. Image sharpens is determined by the camera/user interface and possibly the subject. Everything else after the capture is down to editing/resampling/filesize and output presentation (print/digital display). In other words if you capture a sharp image pretty much any change in that sharpness comes after capture - in editing. Affinity have insisted over the last few years that DPI & PPI are the same thing. You choose to go with that or not. Their default DPI/PPI is 72 when you open an image; personally I always reset this to 300 as I know my final export for print(inkjet) will be 300 DPI and I do not want to edit an image at 72PPI only to have to export after at a resampled 300PPI to match my printers output default setting. I hope this has added to the confusion sufficiently to gat across the point I wish to make. Read the camera instructions, practice getting sharp subjects with default settings in camera and when you are consistently happy with what you see then you can think of the editing and all that stuff. I recommend using "fine jpegs" for initial test shots and viewing on the best quality display you have or can afford with a basic bit of image viewing software eg: Photo on Mac/Windows ?. Enter the worlds of settings and editing only when you can take a photograph worth the trouble or good enough to leave entirely alone. Good luck.
  2. I have found the discrepancy1 I have been using 'Fast Raw Viewer' to browse my raw files. It seems to be this that is causing the problem. When I open the same raw file in 'Apple Photo', 'Affinity" or 'Pixelmator' directly from the file there is nor aberrations at all. This is not true of my old X t2 files. Therefor posted a question with the 'FRV' developers and await their response. From experience it is probably my own error somewhere in preferences. Suffering on the internet front as well so 3rd world headaches all round! Thank you for the response.
  3. Inside the red shapes you can see a lot of , what I think is chromatic aberation. I cannot find anything similar in my X-t2 files. This is a screen grab from 200% enlargement but the image looks quite blurred in the affected area at 100%enlargement. Any thoughts?
  4. Wizz - is a bit open to interpretation. Can you be a little more specific?
  5. May I ask if you are printing the images yourself or sending them to a printers? Are you displaying in frames/on boards with no surround or other? Will you be printing the whole frame or are you planning to crop regularly? More questions than answers, but bear with me
  6. If your using Raf+jpg the EVF will reflect whatever film type you have chosen for the jpg..
  7. Question is in the title. My only attempts at vide previously were noisy, blurred, jumpy rubbish. So which lens and starter book should I look at to be on the right track? Reportage/interviews and a little gentle sport - showjumping and dog agility from out side the ring. Not close up pro. style just atmosphere for cutting in to chats.
  8. If you are not afraid to actually 'move about' then stick to a small selection of primes. The pancake is giving you 40mm FOV in full frame language and works brilliantly indoors/quits and street stuff. Its best kept on your camera covering those unexpected snatched captures. The 16/50 is not a lens that I kept for long. The 10/24 is my go to countryside lens (cannot afore the8/? newline) and I don't actually need anything faster as the tripod is always with me. The next very useful lens of exceptional quality is the 60mm macro (portraits/macro&sport) Beyond that you are getting back to the weight problem so to start that would be my starting lineup. Only piece of advice I can give without any worries about putting you wrong is - take a LOT OF PHOTOGRAPHS - keep notes and cull viciously. This willet you into the "Fuji Mode" of seeing and away from the Cannon. The images will THEN start to look like yours.
  9. Can only suggest re-downloading and start again. All my trials of the SilkyPics stuff, apart from Raw File Converter, have failed fro one reason or another:-(. That at least is stable and runs, albeit slowly.
×
×
  • Create New...