jerryy

It should fit the same as your other lens do. Usually these adapters fit tightly and have to be used a few times before they 'break-in'. I do not know what the screws do, maybe hold it together?

Andromeda: M31 The small blob on the right hand side is Le Gentil M32 https://www.messier-objects.com/messier-31-andromeda-galaxy/ https://www.messier-objects.com/messier-32-le-gentil/ 3 of 3 edit: A wider view of the neighborhood:

Have you considered using the built-in interval timer? You can set it to take several (actually a lot) of shots with oh say a second delay between them, as well as a delay before starting the sequence if you wish. Even if you have some wiggle in the first frame or so, you can discard those and keep the steady ones.

Anyone that could definitively answer the question at this point most likely will not because they would be under a Non-Disclosure-Agreement. You can keep up on the rumors over at https://www.fujirumors.com It does not make sense for Fujifilm to release the new sensor in a x-mount body if the older lenses cannot give it good enough images. Sure, absolutely sure, Fujifilm makes money selling new lenses, but they also support their setups with the older lenses. If it was not feasible to do that, then it would make better sense to put the sensor in the gfx mount line or start a new mount type series. The rumors say the sensor will be in the x-mount line. At some point there could be a sensor that out does the lenses, that is a hard limt, but it does not sound like that point is here. We will know soon enough.

Hanging out close by Cassiopeia's neighborhood. https://www.constellation-guide.com/constellation-list/cassiopeia-constellation/ 2 of 3

I am glad to hear you are able to get things working. When I read your post, I missed the part where you said you had auto mode on. But there are a couple of things that may also help you. https://www.markllobrera.com/posts/fujifilm-xt30-webcam/ Fujilfilm turned on support for using the X-T30 as a web cam in the recent firmware upgrades. https://app.fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/camera_remote/usage/live_view/index.html They also support live view shooting using the Camera Remote app on smartphones. I have not tried this using bluetooth, but it works fine using the wifi connection approach, albeit is a tad bit clunky, you have to connect the camera and phone together on the camera’s wifi before starting the app. The only “normal” thing I have not been able to do using the app is use manual focus assistance. Also note that except for manually zooming a zoom lens, pretty much all of the usual buttons will not control the camera, except the on / off switch; the Camera Remote app controls everthing. edit: Whether these updates give us the ability to do tethered photography directly to the computer using something like X Acquire or similar software or indirectly by using a combination of PC Autosave along with Camera Remote running on the smartphone, I do not know because I am not that ambitious enough at the moment to try it (so many other things are demanding I pay attention to them right now 😀).

I was able to get to see some of this year's Draconid meteor shower (*1.), it was a bit different. Usually the meteors I get to see have longer lasting bright flashes as they come whizzing down out of the sky, these tended to be less colorful, but still very neat to see. *1.) https://www.timeanddate.com/astronomy/meteor-shower/draconid.html 1 of 3

No, perhaps I was not clear. Just about the only thing that keeps you from using es is having a flash unit attached. I regularly use electronic shutter with very long exposures when I am outdoors, it saves wear and tear on the mechanical shutter. So something else is going on. Try a full reset and see if that clears it up as well as making sure you have the latest firmware installed. Having tethering would be nice, but Fujifilm seems to have saved that for the X-T3, X-T4, etc.

That is odd, there are very few other settings that limit using es. Having a flash unit attached is one, but I would have thought that would also keep you from using ms+es. Mines does this: Have you upgraded to the most recent firmware? This may sound drastic, have you copied you settings down somewhere and tried a full reset?

https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t30/menu_shooting/shooting_setting/index.html Scroll down to Shutter Type. It is in the shooting menus setup, you can choose between manual shutter, electronic shutter or both together.

Blackbird Murmurations - 4 4 of 4

Blackbird Murmurations - 3 3 of 4

Venus and the Falling Leaves Moon When this new moon grows up it will be called the Hunter's Full Moon or the Falling Leaves Moon.

Blackbird Murmurations - 2 2 of 4

Once you have the camera setup as Greybeard describes, turn it off, connect it using an appropriate USB cable to your Mac. Turn the camera on. Look in the applications folder for a program called Image Capture, start it going. Your camera should be in the list of devices Image Capture can download images from the camera. Note: depending on which version of macOS you are running, you may have have to tell the security settings that it is okay to import from the camera. This is due to Apple’s general security settings not Fujifilm’s stuff. If you do not allow the computer to “trust” the camera, things get tricky. https://support.apple.com/guide/image-capture/transfer-images-imgcp1003/mac

It is also called the flange distance, which for the X-Mount system is 17.7mm (17,7mm). One common distance other systems use is 55mm.

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Okay, that makes it clearer, the way you wrote about no countdown sounded like you wanted it to act as a countdown timer before snapping a photo, which is an entirely different thing. T Mode should start click right away, but stay open for the length you set. Did you buy this one used? Have you updated the firmware to the latest version? It sounds like there are a couple of things that may broken. If you got this body new, you may find it worthwhile to get the dealer to check it over while it is still under warranty. p.s. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t2/taking_photo/shooting_mode/index.html Just to double check, you do have it in one of the p, s, a, m shooting modes? It sounds like you do, but sometimes one of the dials jumps into a position it should not.

T Mode stands for timed mode, how long you want the shutter to be open. You need to set it to a time. Usually you use one of the dials, front or back, to set the time you wish to use. T mode is a long exposure setup without needing to use a remote shutter release in B Mode or dig through the menus to set up interval shooting. It sounds like it is working correctly, it is just using the baked in default time. Once you set the time, and press the shutter button, it should go click and take a timed-length photo, then shut the shutter, you should hear another click as the shutter closes. Using a remote release allows you to take a second to let any vibrations in your tripod to settle, and then trip the shutter without causing new vibrations. You can also dig in the menus to set up interval timed shooting with only a few shots, you can set an interval between the shots as well as a ‘wait before starting’ time.

That does sound a bit odd, it could be a one time glitch or due to how much the lighting conditions changed while you were working on the image, even big stoppers can let in a lot more light for a moderate change in lighting conditions. (You initially mention two concerns, what was the second one?) Try this, repeat the setup, taking a shot with nr turned on and go through the full process) Turn it off and take a shot. Turn it back on and see if the shot time jumps way back up again, all the while making sure to note the lighting changes. On a related note, there is a way to get the same value of using nr via your image processing software (GIMP, Affinity Photo, Photoshop, etc., any of those that support layers with blend modes). Take your shots with nr turned off, then put the lens cap on, take a shot using the exact same parameters as you used for your regular images.— same time, iso, f-stop, etc.. Bring both the regular image and the cap-on image into your processor as layers, the stacking order will depend on your software, but it will typically be with the cap-on image above the regular image. Set the blend mode for the cap-on layer to “subtract”. This will remove hot pixels, etc. from your regular image just like the in-camera method does. But you save a lot of very valuable time while you are on site. The drawback to this is that you need to do this before you turn the camera off after taking the image set, and also take one now and then as you are going if the camera is left on for very long times. One other thing to note, if you are going to change any of the iso or time settings etc., you need to take a on-cap image before making changes to the settings.

Tasty. Okay, what time do they serve second breakfast? They do know about second breakfast right? (part three.)

What about this? Yeah, that should do it ... (part two of three.)

I just need something to take the edge off ... What do they keep in the cupboard here? (part one of three.)