Nick05

You very well may be experiencing some unexplainable issues with your Fujifilm camera. My X100T did some odd things. It would drain its battery while off overnight and when you would turn the camera on, it would take photos on its own or behave as those the shutter button was half pressed. Fujifilm was really great about resolving the problem. I realize I have a problem with buying and selling cameras, lol, but I have had an X-E1, X-E2, X-T1, X-T2, and two X-Pro2 as well and the X-100T was the only camera that experienced an issue. On the Canon side, prior to moving to Fujifilm, I had cameras experience issues as well. One had a image sensor go out and then the no lens attached error. If you go to the Canon forums, you will see there are some issues there as well. On the Nikon side, one that everyone remembers is the oil issue on the sensor. I'm sure there are more, but Nikon is one I haven't much experience with. You can see that every company has had a few issues here and there, but most of the cameras are good and work without issues. The 20D was a great camera, one of my favorite Canons. I liked the way it rendered colors, but hated the horrible LCD. I've been thinking about trying to find a 30D in good condition.

I've used Wasabi batteries in my X-T1 and X-E2 when without any issues. When I got my X-Pro2 I noticed an occasional freezing of camera (could just have been the issue with the old firmware) and it seems the charge does not last as long. I haven't used them as much as I had bought extra Fujifilm ones now. I used a Wasabi one in my X-Pro2 over the holidays for photos of family opening gifts and did not have any issues with it so it is difficult to say if they were the cause of the freezing.

I loved the color when it came out on the X-T1, but already had the black one and couldn't justify buying a second body, especially for more money. I think part of that was the timing of the release and the fact the X-T1 wasn't quite there performance wise at the time for me so I was still holding onto my Canon gear. I was really hoping they would have released a silver or graphite version of the X-Pro2 or X-T2 at launch, but they didn't. Between the X-Pro2 and X-T2, I found the performance to be better than my Canon 6D and have moved to Fujifilm 100% so I am glad they released this graphite silver version. I've been trying to hold off on buying the second X-T2 so I could get a silver version. I do agree the $200 up charge seems to be a bit much for just a color change.

Interesting. The only lens that has any play on mine is the XF 100-400mm and it is less than what most of my lenses on my previous Canon cameras/lenses had.

I have had quite a few Fujifilm bodies and the only camera I had any issues with was my X100T which was fixed by Fujifilm. I would not say my experience was without quirks, but they seem to have worked all them out now. I was really happy with the improvements they made to the X-T1, but I had kept one of my old Canons as a just in case. When I bought the X-Pro2, I knew it was time to sell the Canon gear. My X-Pro2 did the reset once when I first got it, but it has been perfect since. My X-T2 has not had any issues. I think the lenses are great, but I've been very happy with their bodies as well.

I go between the two depending on my need. Switching the camera to manual focus allows you use the back button for AF. Normally I use the AF tied to shutter button.

Is this only happening when the sun is at the very top or just outside of the frame? i have not experienced it and like shooting into the sun but I usually the sun is either seen in the frame or hidden behind an object in the frame. Looking at the photos in this thread where the issue occurs, it appears the sun has been out of the frame. I'm curious to know what triggers the issue.

I don't have the grip and haven't used bulb on the X-T2 yet, but I have not experienced any issues with mine. The making its own files thing you mentioned sounds really odd.

I haven't experienced any issues with my X-T2. When I got the X-Pro2, I experienced the lockup a few times, but so far the X-T2 has been stable and bug free for me. As far as upgrading is concerned, I think you would need to figure out if it makes sense for you. A big driver for me to upgrade to the X-T2 from the X-T1 was to get the consistency between the menus and AF selection on the newer cameras. Going between the X-Pro2 and the X-T1 caused some frustration due to the different menus and had me looking for the nonexistent joystick on the X-T1. I also see increased AF performance. I'm unsure how some people say it isn't much different than an X-Pro1. Maybe they are only shooting non-moving subjects in well lit rooms. My experience with the first gen sensor cameras were they only became usable after the firmware updates, but the lag was still terrible. The X-T2 is better than any of the DSLR cameras I have used, but you should know I haven't used any of the newest models. I can only compare to Nikon D7000, Canon 50D, 6D, 5D MKII. I think image quality is very similar and that the X-T1 is a fantastic camera. If you don't move AF points, shoot video, or require faster AF, you probably are better off not upgrading. Wait until the first sale.

I have not used the Zeiss so I cannot really say anything for or against it from my own opinion. I have the Fuji 35mm F/1.4 and the F/2. They are both nice lenses. The F/2 feels more solid, is weather sealed, and has a much faster quieter AF. I saw a lot of mixed feelings about the Zeiss and chose the Fuji. If fast, quiet AF is important, the F/2 is probably the best option.

For me, I find that the prime lenses force to me to be more creative. If i have a zoom lens, I may stand in one spot and adjust the zoom to compose the image. Using a prime forces me to move my feet, bend down, stand on a rock, whatever is needed to get the desired composition. I have the 23mm F/2 and it is a nice lens. I prefer the 35mm, only because the focal length works better for me more often. Going on what you said in your post, it doesn't sound like you are someone who is just out to collect photographic gear. If you have the zoom kit lens, I think adding the 23mm F/2 would be a good idea. The F/2 aperture should help with creativity and lowlight shooting. The colors, sharpness, and contrast would be better. The money saving advice I'd offer is that if you live in an area that participates in the Fujifilm sales, it may be in the next one at a discounted price going on what I've seen with the 35mm F/2.

Both the answers above are great. Keep in mind that the smaller aperture, larger number, is going to let less light in slowing up your shutter speed so you will be at more risk of seeing camera shake blur. As mentioned, that question is not related only to Fujifilm. I would highly recommend a book called "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. I like this book because it explains all these settings and how they work together. It also has many photos illustrating the different effects you get by changing the different settings (ISO, Shutter speed, and aperture). As an example, if you were to have your camera in a field of flowers, on a tripod, and were taking a photo of one red flower in the field of white flowers, and set your camera aperture to F/1.4 you would have the red flower in focus and a complete blur of all the white flowers. If you set it to F/22, you would likely have the entire field in focus and be able to clearly see all the white flowers. With that said, your ideal settings would be somewhere in between. By using F/2.8 you would get a little more of the white flowers in focus. Using F/4 would continue to give you more white flowers in focus. On the other side, is where things become a little confusing because of the diffraction Larry mentioned. Take his advice and don't go smaller (larger number) than F/16 and you should never see it. Diffraction is basically the bending of light caused by the smaller opening and it can cause less sharpness in the photo meaning that if you go from F/16 to F/22 to get more in focus, your photo may end up less sharp overall.

I don't find the current layout that bad. The thing I would have preferred is that they made the X-T2 and X-Pro2 more similar in button placement. When I go between the two is when i have problems. I prefer using the X-Pro2 for some things and the X-T2 for others. The buttons aren't even close to being in the same place. Fortunately you don't need to access those buttons for much.

I'm happy with the performance of the new 24MP sensor. I haven't had my X-T2 long enough to actually compare to the X-Pro2, but based on a few shots I had taken, not side by side so not a great comparison, the X-Pro2 looked cleaner at high ISO. I have already sold the X-T1, so I won't be able to compare them side by side. Overall, I really like the amount of detail the new sensor captures and think the noise is well controlled. I was initially disappointed to hear the 24MP resolution when announced. I didn't even want over 24MP in my old FF DSLR cameras. If they came out with a lower MP sensor, I'd be curious to test it out.

I just looked at mine and it looks fine. I received it a couple weeks after it was released.

It partially depends on how you use the camera. Obviously the X-T2 offers improvements, but the X-T1 is a fantastic camera. If you need video, the faster AF, and/or the much easier to adjust focus point adjustment, you should go with the X-T2. If not, the X-T1 would be a good choice. I had bought the X-Pro2 earlier this year and got used to the joystick and better AF. I can't go back now.

The ISO dial is the only way to control the ISO settings. I think you will like it once you get used to it. I also came from the Canon side and it did take a little time to adjust to using the physical controls compared to the button/dial driven format of the canons, but not I greatly prefer it. I begin to adjust the settings as i am approaching the subject. You can easily look down at the camera and set ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture with the camera off. If you need to make a quick adjustment while shooting or holding the camera to your face, it is easy enough to lift and adjust the ISO dial and see the settings change in the viewfinder. I checked out you instagram. I like your work. I have not had any one comment on the camera gear, but I don't regularly do professional shoots right now. The only thing I have noticed is that people seem to be a little more relaxed which is a benefit. I am in the process of selling the remaining Canon gear, just two lenses left. If I end up getting back into shooting professionally, I will be all in with Fujifilm.

I was really impressed with the IS on the 100-400mm. It really helped keep the video steady.

I was just in the Smoky Mountains with my X-T2 hoping to get a few photos of the Elk. I had the 100-400mm on the camera. We came across quite a few bulls that were bugling so i switched to video mode and did some recording. I am certainly not a video expert, did nothing special, and this video was mostly handheld at 400mm or close to it. It was edited in iMovie on a standard MacBook Air from early 2014 with only 4GB of RAM and a 1.4GHz CPU. Editing went quite smooth, but the computer did occasionally skip when trying to play back. Compliling/Procesisng did not seem to take any longer than other camera i've used. The link to the video is below. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YI9DPZwgnHw Edit: two quick notes: 1) I didn't look into any of the video features before shooting, just switched the dial to video and clicked the shutter button. 2) I found that when on AF-C it seemed to loose focus and hunt, but when on AF-S it seemed to stay in focus

I prefer the x-pro2. I've preordered the x-t2 knowing I can cancel if I change my mind on buying it as a second camera. I do like the tilting LCD screen and large EVF for some things. The x-pro2 is just about perfect for what I do.

This is impossible to answer right now as no one knows for sure when the X-T2 will arrive so the wait could be a few months to a few years; probably closer to a few months to a year. The biggest difference between the two cameras for what you shoot will be the form factor. The X-T2 will likely have the tilting LCD screen and a bigger EVF over the X-Pro2 which may be important. The extra buffer size isn't usually a big deal for most people. I personally like the form factor of the X-Pro2 over the X-T1. It feels better in my hands. If you were looking for a low budget way to do some testing, you could pick up a used X-T1 or X-E2, though they will have the X-Trans II sensor and not the X-Trans III of the X-Pro2 and the likely X-T2. I find the lenses fantastic and a great value. I came from the Canon side and bought L series lenses, not for the weather resistance, but more to get the quality I wanted. Fuji's equivalents are far less money and smaller/lighter. I'm curious to see what the X-T2 brings, but the X-Pro2, imo, is the best camera I've used. It feels like it was built for me. Of course everyone has different opinions and this is mine.

I bought a classic Pentax 100mm macro lens to use. Later I bought the MCEX 16 and later the 11. Eventually I bought the Fuji 60mm Macro lens. My experience with this is that you buy a macro lens you will eventually find you want the extension tubes to get even closer. If you buy the extension tubes first, you will want a Macro lens to get even closer. So my point is that either will work as your first investment into macro photography and you will find that you eventually want the other to compliment it. If you choose to buy a legacy macro lens, do a little research to ensure you get one that was rated well. There are a lot of low quality lenses with the word macro written on them.

The 90mm does this. It is normal and the lens doesn't do this when mounted to the camera with the power on.

I think there are characteristics of some legacy glass that are difficult if not impossible to recreate in post. I have some different legacy lenses I use, nothing that I'd say is really cool, but they do change the look of the photo. I prefer to get the look I want in camera. I'm not a fan of spending time post processing. I think the film simulations enhance the legacy glass even more.

I agree that it sucks having to pay for shipping. It is sort of the standard unfortunately. The only way around that would have been to return it to the store within the return period.