Nick05

Welcome to Fuji and the Forum. People probably think I get commission from selling these, but if you are learning manual exposure or even a better understanding of it, I highly recommend a book written by Bryan Peterson called "Understanding Exposure". This book is what really helped me understand how ISO, Shutter, and Apeture worked together and how to achieve the effect I wanted in photos when I first started photography. When I was shooting Canon, I spent a lot of time in full manual. It was only when I was shooting sports and birds in flight that I would go to aperture priority. Now that I have a Fuji, I was excited because of the physical dials and how great they would be for shooting in manual. I found that the internal light meter is so good, that I primarily shoot aperture priority only. I do occasionally put it in full manual, but haven't found much need to. I still think it is good to understand exposure and know how to shoot in full manual so you can easily take full control when needed. It sounds like you have two great lenses already. The 18-135mm is the last lens I thought I'd ever own and had zero interest in it when it was released, but has become my go to zoom. As far as which prime to get, I find the 35mm F/1.4 and 23mm F/1/4 to be very different. Do you frequently shoot at one of those focal lengths over the other? The 35mm is a nice lens, but the focusing motors are noisy and the AF is not what I would call quick compared to the 23mm. I also find the F/2 versions of these lenses very nice. The only downside to them is they are F/2 instead of F/1.4, but the AF is way quicker, they are completely silent, smaller, lighter, weather resistant, and much cheaper. You could get both F/2 versions instead of one of the F/1.4 versions. They are all really nice lenses though and I don't think you need to worry about one being better than the other as much as which one would suit your needs better. As far as upgrading, I have not owned the X-T10, but had the X-T1 and now have the X-T2. I love the camera and I find the ergonomics of it are better for me than the smaller bodies. However, if you are happy with the handling of the X-T10, I'd go with the X-T20. It will be a natural upgrade and is far less expensive with identical image quality. Of course it would probably make sense to wait until the first sale to buy. I would also point out that lenses are better investments and have a larger impact on your photos than a camera body.

I ordered the grip for my X-T2 a week before the deal. Then preordered the Graphite X-T2 a few days before the deal. I was hoping I could get the grip deal with it because it would be nice to have for $100 more, but it was only available with the black version which I already owned. I then had to decide if ordering Graphite Silver was worth a $400 price increase over the black for just a color. I decided it was not and now have a second black X-T2 with grip. In a way I am upset that they offered the deal so close to the launch of the graphite version without including it. I thought $200 was already a bit much just for a color, but I certainly couldn't justify $400 and I really wanted the graphite silver.

Out of curiosity, is there something with the current lens you dislike? I've heard some people complain about it and others say it is great. I haven't compared it agains my 23mm F/1.4 or F/2 lenses. My X100T has been more of a fun camera than one I've taken out on a serious shoot so I never really looked into the lens quality that much.

I have been shooting a M4/3 LUMIX that I have converted for IR, but was just thinking this last week that I need to convert a Fuji body so I do not need to carry multiple brands of lenses, batteries, and bodies. These photos look great and I now think that I need to find a Fuji to convert. For those of you that have converted a Fuji, are you using native lenses? Is there anything from your experience shooting IR converted Fujis that you would recommend or avoid as far the gear itself.

It may have been, I don't recall. There was more time between the releases that I don't think it would have impacted the sales of the X-T1 too much. To me, this one becomes more meaningful because the release timing is closer, people are still waiting for the X-T2 to be in stock, and for many the specs are more than they need.

I agree with Opeteron. There are a some differences that will be important to a few people, but for most it appears the X-T20 is an extremely capable camera at a bargain price. Looks like weather sealing was left off the list, but that should be there too. I think it would be difficult to justify the price difference between the X-T20 and X-T2 for most people.

With the release of the X-T20, I think anyone with an X-T1 looking to upgrade needs to ask now whether they need the X-T2 or if the X-T20 makes the most sense. From what I have read and seen in reviews so far, the X-T20 looks more than capable as an X-T1 replacement for most people and is significantly cheaper than the X-T2. The X-T2 does have advantages, but the question is are they needed or worth the extra cost.

Nice review. I'm considering replacing my X100T with the X100F. I haven't been using my X100T much recently for two reasons. The first is the AF feels very outdated compared to the new models. No real multi-point AF. The second is that it uses a different battery and I hate carrying multiple battery types and chargers. I'm also liking the X-T20, but I think I may already have too many cameras, haha.

I didn't know this lens existed. I have two adapted 50mm lenses and the XF 56mm, but this looks like it may be fun too.

I find that strange. I have both the X-T2 and the X-Pro2 and they seem near identical to me. I will say though I have not compared them at the same time, same light, same lens, and same exposure settings so i cannot say if they are exposing exactly the same. I have been shooting more aperture priority lately where I shot full manual with my Canons. I guess it could be possible that there is a defect with your camera.

You can reassign the button. I changed the function of the button so it is less likely to be accidentally changed. I had managed to do the same. Fortunately I was only wondering around the streets of Indy where I have been many times so it wasn't a big loss. Edit: I actually reassigned the white balance which some how seems to get adjusted on its own as well. You could reassign the drive button, but then it would be more difficult to change from single, continueous, and bracketing. I honestly wish they wouldn't include some of these features on the upper end bodies, but I guess someone would complain that the competition offers these amazing filters.

How are you metering? That can make a big impact on autoexposure. My X-T2 has no issues at all with AE.

I wasn't saying it was an ideal lens to photograph a running puppy. You asked what was meant by slow AF. The 90mm would keep up, the 56mm isn't as quick and would likely result in more missed focus shots. It isn't that it is slow, just not at the same level as the 90mm. The 23 and 35 F/2 versions also focus very quickly. That is what people are talking about. I don't think any of the lenses focus that slow, except for that 60mm (but that is to be expected). If I go from the 35mm F/1.4 to the 35mm F/2, there is a noticeable improvement in AF speed. That is where the comparisons are being made. I am more than happy with the Fuji lenses and am not complaining as all. My 56mm F/1.2 is much quicker in focusing that my Canon 50mm F/1.2.

Don't know if this helps but if you are shooting moving subjects, say a new puppy running around, the 56mm f/1.2 af struggles to keep the dog in focus. The 90mm f/2 or 23/35mm f2 could probably keep up. It isn't that it is 60mm slow, but just not snappy enough to use for moving subjects.

I've always wanted to a photo safari and hope to someday.

I can understand the worry about robbers or pickpockets, but you have to not let that bother you too much. It would be an unfortunate event should something happen, but it can be replaced. It is always difficult deciding what gear to bring, especially when it is that once in a lifetime place. I tend to overpack the gear and underpack the clothes . I tend to usually pack two bodies, sometimes three. I was researching this topic myself and came across a post where someone stated "what happens if your body dies when you're in the middle of that once in a lifetime vacation?" which made me think that would be awful. I also love primes, but they can be a problem if you don't know what focal length you will be shooting at. As someone else mentioned, the 18-135mm is a pretty decent option. I'd compare the IQ from it close to the Canon 24-105mm L I had with my previously. It is not as sharp as the primes, but I consider it more than acceptable. It is also no where near as fast, but this lens covers a big focal range. I normally bring this lens a long with a couple others. Below are some examples of what I bring. Smoky Mountains - hiking, nature, wildlife 2 bodies, 10-24mm, 18-135mm, 100-400mm, 90mm or 60mm with extension tubes, 1.4x teleconverter, 23mm New York City 2 bodies (usually leaving one in room, but as a backup), 10-24mm, 23mm, 35mm Western Caribbean Cruise, went to Cozumel, Costa Maya, Roatán, Harvest Caye 2 bodies, 10-24mm, 18-135mm 23mm, 35mm Theme parks, I live in the capital of theme parks 1 body, 18-135mm. Sometimes I take a prime instead.

I ordered mine Sunday and it shipped yesterday. Still wish they offered the deal on the graphite version.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CzQXcWNIhxw Check out the lag on the touch af in this video.. this is what those people were going on about being so great..

It apparently is possible, but I'm not quite sure I understand the practicalness of it either. If your eye is up to the EVF, your face would be covering the LCD, so why you would want to be trying to move your thumbs around on the screen is not something I understand right now. Maybe it's one of those things you have to try to get. I'm guessing it is one of those things less experienced people like as it makes things a little easier and they rarely use the EVF to begin with.

I liked my X-T1 and thought the images were fine, but the camera itself was missing something. I was a Canon user previously. I sold the 5D MKII, but held onto the 6D for a few things. When the X-Pro2 came out, I ordered it right away. I loved the camera so much I sold my 6D and trying to use the X-T1 frustrated me because of the lack of joystick. I sold the X-T1 right away once the X-T2 was announced. It depends on what you are shooting as to how much of an improvement you will notice with the AF. I shoot a lot of wildlife and I feel like the AF improvement is huge. I don't do a lot of video, but I do appreciate the fact that I can if i want to. Everything you stated you're missing is there. If I didn't like it, I would have sold it already and went back to the X-T1. I really like the files from the new sensor, but obviously that is subjective.

After having both the X-T2 and X-Pro2 for a few months, I need to update my answer. The X-Pro2 is a fantastic camera and works great for my preferred shooting. The X-T2 does seem more versatile and easier to handle when using zooms. If I could only have one, I think I would recommend and choose the X-T2 simply for the versatility. For landscape work, the movable LCD is fantastic and the AF is a bit better for tracking nature or sports.

I just cancelled my preorder on the Graphite Silver X-T2 today. I was willing to pay the $200 more, but with the new deals in the US when you buy the black version and booster griper, you get $230 off, it makes the price swing that much more. I ordered the grip for my black X-T2 this week. I could now combine that order with a black X-T2 to get $230 of that back resulting in a savings of $430 buying the black version over the graphite silver or I could buy a second black version with the grip for $100 less than the graphite silver. I really wanted the graphite silver color, but unfortunately this much of a price difference is no longer justifiable.

The press release says late January.

I agree with Florian above on the handling of the cameras. I have the X-T2, X-Pro2, and the X100T. To go with X-Pro2, I also have the 23mm F/2 and 35mm F/2. The X100T is smaller and lighter than the X-Pro2 which is physically larger than the X-T2. The X-Pro2 does have the hybrid viewfinder, much better AF, and more physical controls. The X100T has a silent leaf shutter where the X-Pro2 has the same as the X-T2. I'm saying this to point out the differences as I do not know which parts of the X100T you like the most. For me personally, I've planned to take photos of my X100T to list for sale this week, but have not done it yet. I like the camera, but I prefer the X-Pro2 for its flexibility. I'm sure I will miss the X100T some, but I just don't use it enough. As far as the cost of the camera i have with me, that is not something i think about much,

I had an X-E1, it was my first Fujifilm camera, and I considered it slow. The AF was slow and the EVF was also slow, sort of had some lag to it. The X-E2 resolved both those issues. If you are going to manual focus, the AF doesn't matter much. For me, the EVF was diffucult to see the focus peaking. I do not know if any of that improved with firmware updates as I sold it for the X-E2. Other than that, it was a great camera. I have seen some decent prices on used X-E2 bodies, but I'm seeing fewer used Fujis for sale.