JRphoto

Hi Chris! Just tested mine and the focus ring is not wobble nor loose at all. On the contrary, it is very stiff in this sense. I saw your video and I am sure you should return your copy. Better luck next time!

It looks like the problem is not optical, but the distortion correction software on camera for this lens: http://lightpriority.net/2014/01/fuji-18mm-f2-r-review/ You may find interesting also the following discussion topics: http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/918-fuji-18mm-f2-thoughts/ http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2445-18mm-f2-your-experienceopinion-on-this-lens/page-2 Regarding this last link, take a look at post #21.

Tilting LCD.

Thanks, milandro, for the answer, I appreciate.

Anyone on bracketing capabilities of X-T2?

DSCF2246b&w by João Ricardo F. Oliveira, no Flickr

Just a test also...

And when would you want to memorize the exposition with the AE-L button after pressing the trigger halfway? In the shooting menu 4, setting the AE/AF-LOCK MODE to 'S' (AE & AF ON/OFF SWITCH), you can memorize the exposure pressing the AE-L button and you can press the trigger halfway to focus as many times you want, and even take a picture, that the exposure will remains fixed until you press the AE-L button again. I have an X-T1 and I could test it. I don't have an X-PRO2, but its manual said the same thing, so I think it will work in the same way. I hope this helps!

Nice to know, libertalia70! And I can assure you that the three fuji lens with clutch mecanism (14/2.8, 16/1.4, and 23/1.4) work in this way. Indeed, this kind of behaviour you can only achieve with this type of lens.

I don't know if you'll find this useful, but when you set the X-T1 in M mode (focus mode selector) and the clutch mecanism in AF position, obviously you cannot manual focus using the lens, but the camera works as in manual focus, and the AF-L button works to focus. Indeed, in this configuration, this is the only way to focus: the shutter button don't change the focus when pressed. It may be useful, for example, in situations that you focus once and don't want to change the focus for the next shots. Maybe there are other uses for this configuration.

Are you in panorama mode (drive dial) or video mode?

Hi jdam21! Maybe other information regarding these lens can be useful in deciding. So, I would say: XF90mm: Good points - WR - Fast and precise AF - More magnification (2x more than the XF56mm) Weak point - Needs more working space for portraits XF56mm: Good points - Smaller and lighter - More versatile - Low light capability Weak point - AF in low light So, running subjects (kids and pets) in the yard with raining possibilities, I would go for the 90mm. Indoor portraits, more static subjects and better all-around possibilities, I would buy the 56mm. I think this site makes a fair analysis: http://toolsandtoys.net/reviews/a-review-of-the-fuji-xf-56mm-f1-2-xf-90mm-f2-0-lenses/ Some photo comparison here: http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Fujifilm_Fujinon_XF_90mm_f2_R_LM_WR/verdict.shtml

I have the feeling that the 35mm(53mm eq.) has a more useful focal length for documentary wedding photography than the 60mm(90mm eq.), maybe a bit tight in some occasions, besides f1.4 being very welcome in low light. I love the XF60mm, but the XF35mm f1.4 is also a superb lens. In fact the XF35mm focal length is really very near the X100S+TCL focal length (33mm, 50mm eq.). With time, I would have both.

http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/procedure_interchangeable.html

Probably a defective one. Mine works as expected.

This would be a nice way to check the correct (or not) functioning of the BULB feature!

Maybe problems with the cabled release?...

If you can afford the XF120, no question, it will probably be the best solution, go for it! The XF60 is nice because is relatively cheap and you can use it from 18.5cm to infinity. In the pdf I presented in the last post it compares numerically this two lenses, and the XF18-135 with the MCEX-16 has almost the same magnification (0.45x) as the XF60 alone. And yes, it is a bit frustrating using the extension tubes because they limit the use to almost only macro shots.

In the "Specifications" page of my i40 flash manual it shows the flash has a color temperature of 5600K. So I just go in the WB menu and set this value for "Color Temperature" (5600K).

Nice photos! I would go for the XF60. The extensions tubes are nice to raise the maximum magnification, but using them the working distance decreases, and the lens is only usable for distances not much far from the working distance. For instance, you can have a better idea about the compromisses looking this pdf: http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/accessories/pdf/mcex_01.pdf This site have some photos illustrating the extension tubes usage: http://www.fujivsfuji.com/mcex-11-vs-mcex-16/

I do not own an X-T10, but I think this is indeed a manual error.

Well, in the manual I only see it stating that the rear dial sets the aperture only for "lenses with no aperture ring" (page 8), as you already pointed out, XC and XF27 lenses. I think, unfortunately for who needs, this is not possible for the other lenses. Incidentally, I love changing aperture using the aperture ring!

Thanks for correcting, you're right!

darknj may you apologize me, but just for the sake of information precision, I would say: Aperture in "A", shutter speed (SS) in "T", and ISO in "A": camera in "S" mode (shutter priority), front command dial (fcd) changes SS (you can only see the SS value on camera display; aperture value appears only after half-pressing the shutter button). Aperture in "A", SS in "T", and ISO not in "A": camera still in "S" mode, and, as before, fcd changes SS but this time you can see the SS and the aperture value (that changes following the SS change, for best exposition possible) on camera display. Aperture in "A", SS in "A", and ISO not in "A": camera in "P" mode (program mode), and now, finally, the fcd changes the SS value and the rcd changes the aperture value. I hope this helps.