LocalGhost

It comes from film photography times - back then it was a setting affecting the motorized film drive / transport mode (single frames, continuous etc). I think it still is a fairly accurate and descriptive term in today's digital cameras, although I totally see how it can be confusing for non-native English speakers (being one myself[emoji12] ) Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Not that I care much, but checked out of curiosity: X-T1 - Japan 18-135 (kit lens) - China 55-200 Japan 35 2.0 Japan

Well, I think this is slightly different. Like I said, I think the camera is fully capable of fast data "streaming", only the software / app is a bottleneck. This should be relatively easy to fix (much easier than overheating body anyway), simply by developing a new app. I still don't think it's gonna happen any time soon, though. :-(

I can only speak about XT-1, but I believe we're talking about the same problem. I don't think it's Wi-Fi connection's fault, our cameras provide b/g/n connectivity, with theoretical speed of 300mbps. it's a terribly designed and terribly outdated Fuji file transfer software (at least on PC). I am using it (or rather still trying) at work. This would be an ideal solution for me, as I am shooting couple of product photo sessions daily, in a remote warehouse (but still within wifi range). After each session I have to grab my card (or camera) and get to the office to upload photos to a shared folder. I could avoid those frequent walks and waste of time and could get it all done with one press of a button, if only Fuji's software weren't such a sad joke... :-( Oh well.

It's all about training and experience. A friend of mine who's a retired marine sniper rarely uses any IS :-) Most of his shots are pretty sharp, even handheld with really long FLs :-)

For the love of G*d, a battery indicator that gives you an idea about remaining battery charge. Like percentage display or something. Or just divide the old one into 5 bars and make it work.

Thanks, Tom! Out of curiosity I will test and compare both 5600K and custom, gray card based preset tomorrow.

Thanks, guys! Both advices true and useful. If I only knew what's the color temperature of my cheap (yet working surprisingly well) flash :-( I think I need to go the gray card route and create a preset. I am still wondering how come I didn't think of it myself :-0 Anyway, I'd still trade the Underwater WB setting for Flash in a blink :-)

I re-discovered it myself only recently :-) I think its name (ON/OFF SWITCH) is a bit unfortunate and confusing - many people think it actually turns the AF-L on/off completely, while it actually changes its mode of operation. I'd name it simply SWITCH MODE if I were Fujifilm :-)

rvhout - thank you, sir! I am aware of these possibilities, but I was hoping to find some "quick" solution. There's not always time for gray card or playing with gels, and I really could use such setting - just install your flash, set WB accordingly and shoot, just like "the rest of the photo world". Why we can't have a Flash White Balance preset is really beyond me. Hell, we even have Underwater setting, but no Flash. I wonder what's the percentage of users doing underwater photography with their X-T1 vs. those using flashes / speedlights. Especially while Fuji's offer is non-existing when it comes to flashes.

Hi guys, As you probably know :-), there's no such thing as Flash White Balance setting in our X-T1s. When using a dedicated Fuji flash, the camera probably gets the info from it, acknowledges its presence and applies corrections. Do you have any ideas how to force it (or which setting to use) to do it when using a 3rd party, non Fuji dedicated, flash? I have some Canon compatible TTL speedlights and they work well with Fuji (in full manual mode, of course), just the wretched WB is always off. Any ideas? TIA

Like I said in the other thread, in Shooting Menu 4 there's an option AE/AF LOCK MODE. Change it to ON/OFF SWITCH and you won't have to keep AF-L pressed - press once to focus and lock, then you can recompose and shoot as many shots as you need with focus locked. Pres AF-L again to release the focus. Works in S and C mode, not in M, though.

jwarstyle - In Shooting Menu #4 you will find an item called AE/AF-LOCK MODE. Change it to ON/OFF SWITCH instead of the default ON WHEN PRESSING. Now if you press AF-L button once it will in fact Focus and Lock, but you'll be able to recompose and take as many shots as you wish, without refocusing and without holding the button all the time. The focus will be released only if you press the AF-L button again. Isn't that what you're looking for? I believe it's exactly what the Canon "routine" described by you does, yet in even more convenient way, by using just one button for focus and lock instead.

It's not a bug, it's a feature :-) There's nothing wrong with your camera. Like darknj said, it is looking for some moving object in order to focus on it and track it throughout the frame / focus area. Works like a charm (at least for me) in car racing photography, especially when a car is coming towards you. What would be the point of locking a continuous focus, anyway? :-)