Antony

I am regularly shooting time lapse images for my wedding day films - the flicker you refer to is caused by the aperture closing down for every shot, and this aperture being very slightly different each time. It's not common but I must admit I haven't used the 18-55mm for this purpose. As you are obviously aware best results will always be achieved with a manual lens where there is no change between the aperture etc. on every shot. I've had similar issues (albeit not as pronounced) on Canon, but never realised until I was asked about it on a stop-motion discussion forum. Those guys know their shit. To see some of my films you can visit here: www.vimeo.com/chasingsummer

I think we can safely say that the "Beta Testers" by their hundreds would have noticed this issue, so we can safely assume that it is something wrong with your camera.

I use an L plate on the bottom of mine, tha arca Swiss dovetails enable tripod use. The L plate surrounds the door so it stops this being an issue. The extra height also makes it easier to hold, and you can get some that include a grip. Doesn't solve the problem, but I think it perhaps reduces it's occurrence? (I haven't see this issue yet on any of my 4 bodies)

Google is your friend: http://petapixel.com/2014/06/04/review-rokinon-12mm-f2-0-great-option-astrophotogs-budget/

When I switched to Fuji I went from manual everything to Auto ISO, aperture priority. This was primarily with my XT1 bodies due to the shutter speed dial which was impossible to manage for fast pro work. Now with the new firmware I'm delighted to be shooting in manual again! That said, my experience shooting Aperture priority has given me much confidence in the Fuji bodies and I'm very comfortable using A mode on my X100T

Hadn't used filters since my Canon zooms went to 82mm, but with the Fuji gear I had some old filters that fit them so I put some on. Was shooting yesterday with my 10-24mm @ 10mm f/11 (property shots) and afterwards I noticed large white spots on a couple of my images. Sure enough, my B&W MRC Pro had a spot of dust on it. Couldn't believe it would appear on the image but at 10mm f/11 the dof was so great that it must have. I suppose I'm going to be filter off again now!

I shot my first wedding with the X-T1 after having it for 5 days. Previously shot with a 1Dx, 2 5D3s and L glass. Sure there's a learning curve and a DSLR does some things better, but the X-T1 similarly has it's advantages. I've now sold all my Canon gear and have 4 X-T1s - I wouldn't go back. Anyone who says it's not suitable for pro wedding work is either ignorant or completely incapable of learning a new system. Here's a wedding shot 100% on Fuji, probably some of my best work. http://chasingsummerphoto.com/general/kirsty-and-tims-wedding-echidna-gully-armidale-wedding-photography-nsw/ Mirror less cameras are in their infancy, but are undoubtedly the cameras of the future. The DSLR will be dead in 10 years.

Also , when switching between AF-S and MF the focus point can shift. This was an issue for me until I simply set the camera to MF and used the rear AF button to obtain focus in MFmode.

I use the Nissin I40 on the dance floor for direct flash at 1 stop under, and I use a half strength CTO gel to match colour balance.

Hi all, after advice here and on another forum I've recently invested in a range of Yongnuo flash products that work perfectly and seamlessly on the X-T1. I thought I'd share this with you all. I purchased two of the Yongnuo yn 560 IV - great flash, very similar in size and appearance to the Canon 580 EX II, but with built in wireless communication. Cost US70 each. To adjust the flash units remotely I purchased the yn 560 TX transmitter. This synced with the flash units instantly and easily, and enables the user to turn individual groups on and off, adjust intensity from 1/128 power to 1/1 in third stops, and alter zoom levels etc. all simply and quickly. Best of all you don't actually need to have the transmitter on camera to do this. I clip it to my belt using a Spider Monkey clip from the Spider Pro holster company. Cost US45 To trigger the flash units I use Yongnuo 605C triggers. These come in a pack of two, meaning I have one transmitter for each camera. Naturally I could use one as a receiver, but to have two small and capable transmitters is perfect for my requirements. Cost US42 Overall I've got a fully capable system scalable up to 6 seperate groups just by adding additional flash units, for a total investment of US227 - less than half the price of a Canon 600EX RT. I can confirm that all pieces worked perfectly on the X-T1, and it was simple to use in manual mode. Finally, the Yongnuo 605 triggers also include a cable which plugs into the 2.5mm remote socket, and enables them to be used as a remote release with up to 100 yards range. Great Bonus! I'm very happy with the setup, and find it MUCH easier to use than the Canon system.

I have both and I'm very impressed with the Rokinon. I do need the flexibility of the zoom for some purposes, but the 12mm sees a lot more use in my kit. Fantastic for dance floor shots at wedding receptions!

I have both and use one for work (X-T1 with 23mm) and one for my personal use. Th e one time I tried using the X100 T for commercial work I got 2 minutes in before putting it back in my bag and taking out the X-T1. I just found it harder to use fast - the X100T is all about slowing down and taking time for me.

And the response? "Wow! Great compliment! You must have a great mouth!"

I think this would add confusion for users, given most lenses have marked aperture rings.

Why not make AE-L and AF-L customisable? Better yet, why not make it so you can change focus points once AE-L is activated? So many improvements could be made!

No, I'm not interested in hand straps - had a hand strap on my 1 Series cameras for years and never liked them. I did get the attachments for your belt for small items but have never used them.

I've switched from straps to the black widow holsters and I'll never go back. http://spiderholster.com/black-widow-holster/ These are awesome!

You can "just" fit A4 paper in there if you move the divider so it attaches to the side walls and not the back seam. That said, a folder that added even 1cm would make the bag too small. I wouldn't recommend this bag if you needed to carry A4 paper.

My favourite camera bag is the ONA Prince St messenger bag in dark truffle leather - it's luxurious and a real pleasure to carry around. That said it is for my carry everywhere X100T, and it wouldn't hold mush more than a very basic system (eg. one body, 2-3 lenses). My preferred bag for work is the Thinktank Airport Airstream. It's international carry on sized (meaning I can use it in Australia), and it carries a lot of stuff. Here you see it setup to carry my gear, and here's what's inside (clockwise from the top): 4 x X-T1 (2 with battery grips) Nikon 35mm f/2 under a 50mm f/1.8 on a Kipon tilt adapter. 10-24mm f/4 50-140mm f/2.8 18-55mm f/2.8-4 56mm f/1.2 23mm f/1.4 35mm f/1.4 on top of stacked 11mm and 16mm extension rings 16-55mm f/2.8 Nissin i40 flash unit with spare batteries and diffuser Rokinon 12mm f/2 Vello off camera flash cable Then in the lid I've numerous small accessories/tools etc as well as 8 x W126 batteries and a card pouch. One day I need to lay it all out next to the body so it can be truly appreciated!

If you are not of the "less is more" persuasion (personally I'm pretty sure more is actually more) then you may need a sizeable bag to hold your kit. I use the Thinktank Airport Airstream, an international carry-on sized roller case. When packed well this bag takes a lot of gear. This goes with me to any job, and I simply load a light messenger bag with the lenses I need for a particular shoot (or portion of the day for weddings). Here you can see it holding 4 X-T1 bodies (2 with battery grips), 10 lenses, flash unit, and other small accessories.

The 14mm is one of the lenses with the manual focus mechanism where the focus ring is pulled back to enable manual focus. Fuji (in their wisdom) has disabled the focus distance display in the Viewfinder for these lenses. I presume it's because they can't accurately tell the focus distance when not in focus by wire mode. For manual focus with these lenses use the engraved focus distances on the lens barrel.

More probably the people you showed it to would have no idea what the cost of any camera would be. I wonder what they would think of the cost of the retro looking Leica Q?

Well, if the camera was giving you 1000 ISO at f/2.8 and 1/30 sec and the pictures were correctly exposed then it was the correct exposure. Based upon your later comment that you shot at 800 ISO and at 1/60 sec I believe you actually meant the camera was at 400 ISO and 1/30 sec. The issue was with your implementation of auto ISO - 1/30 sec is too slow for critical sharpness. You need to increase your minimum shutter speed to a level you can comfortably handhold.

Well as far as I'm concerned, I think you are being overly critical. 1. The shutter speed dial is reflective of every camera ever made (to the best of my knowledge) that has a manual shutter speed dial. The ability to adjust in third stops using the dial is a bonus. The new changes with FW4 will further enhance this for manual shooters. Trying to have 40 odd click-stops on such a small dial would be overkill. 2. Seriously? Take a shot and review the viewfinder display, or bracket - it's on a tripod for goodness sake. Better yet shoot in RAW. 3. If the 56mm is too short and the 90mm is too big I don't know what they could do for you. 85mm effective focal length has been portrait standard for years. The 90mm (135mm equivalent) is the next step in virtually every pro system. Got an issue? Use the 60mm macro and cover your portrait AND macro needs. 4. Yes the Fuji system has flash shortcomings. They know it and are working on it. Buy a couple of cheap Yongnuo triggers and get over it until they bring out the new flash units. 5. Don't you think if Fuji could fit the X-T1 battery in the X100T they would have done it? It's like a pro canon shooter complaining that his 1Dx battery won't fit in a 5D3. Wow, Fuji is doing this "horribly wrong". If managing two battery types messes you up this much don't get a X100T. Some of your suggestions are valid, but they are certainly not things Fuji is doing "horribly wrong".

"That's a great photo, you must have a really good camera" - response, "That's a great compliment, you must have a really good mouth"