Antony

I purchased the Fuji Long Eyecup for the X-T1 and have been very happy. I can't imagine having one of the old-fashioned round eyecups on my camera - personally I find them too aesthetically distracting to even consider using one for the marginal (if any) improvement in useability.

I must be dumb, because it has me stumped! Can anyone help?

Hi all, I've seen a lot of discussion about compatibility issues with some models of the Yongyou flash triggers, and I was hoping that someone could confirm specifically which current model works perfectly with the X-T1, without any modifications. Cheers, Antony

For $4k I'm satidfied with my X1000T - the Q looks huge!

I'm officially impressed and excited for June 22!

I've been a professional photographer for 15 years (and keen amateur for 20 years before that) and the A7s is the first camera I've ever used that I didn't immediately know how to operate. Canon, Fuji, Nikon are all easy - Sony is altogether different. Personally, I don't care if it's got amazing image quality, the user interface just didn't work for me. Compare that with Fuji, which I picked up for the first time and was instantly engaged and able to use and it's like chalk and cheese. Moving to a crop camera was something I never thought I'd do - I'd resisted digital until the full frame 5D came out, but I find the ability to shoot wide open with perfect sharpness compensates for the lower DOF. I'll be happy if Fuji concentrate on making the most of the crop sensor, perhaps with a higher MP camera plus a lower noise version at current MP count in the future.

The in-camera focus scale is MUCH more accurate than the lens one. The lens markings use DOF calculations from film days, when you didn't have pixel peepers, and so DOF could be a little looser and still look good enough on a print. This is one reason why I can't understand Fuji crippling the DOF scale when using the focus chuck lenses in MF mode.

I've got a 3 yo Ford and I can't understand why they won't give me free servicing like they do for cars less than 12 months old! It's outrageous! Seriously, Fuji has no obligation to provide these updates to superceded cameras, and to do so would actually be counterproductive when they are in the business of selling cameras. Y'all asking for this all the time need to make a decision - do I really need these changes? If yes, BUY A NEW CAMERA

Why would Fuji want to offer a Canon or Nikon styled menu? That's like GM offering to sell you their new car with a Ford or Toyota badge. Probably the least likely suggested change to be implemented. If you like square format you can always crop, or use your iPhone and Instagram. The reason there's not a faster portrait lens is that the 56mm at f/1.2 is already fast, to make a faster lens would require a bigger and heavier lens, at high cost, with a limited market and marginal improvement to DOF from the 56mm.

Oh, and can we please allow me to change focus points when I've selected AE-L? Why do the lock the focus point? I want exposure lock, not focus point lock. These are all simple firmware changes that should be implemented by Fuji.

Oh, and while we're at it, what's with the minimum shutter speed in auto ISO of 1/500? Why restrict me fuji? I was shooting a sporting event last week and needed a minimum of 1/1000 on my remote camera - couldn't use auto ISO due to this completely unnecessary restriction.

I've already sent an email to this effect to Fuji in Australia - I can't understand why this hasn't been implemented! This feature is a Pro's best friend, and the fact that it doesn't exist for Fuji is a real pita when I'm working.

Hi Mark, I think that is correct, I was unaware of the new clickable dials when I posted. One other factor to consider is the grip, which is much smaller on the X-T10.

This sounds a lot like the documented f/0 problem, except that with that issue it happens all the time and doesn't get better. I had this with one of my X-T1 bodies and it required a new circuit board. Basically the camera won't focus, lens is showing f/0, and if I recall correctly there is some kind of weird flashing briefly on the LCD when viewing a picture.

I've got the 10-24mm and the Samyang 12mm. The zoom is sharp and will give you flexibility, the 12mm is cheap and really great quality. Honestly, at the price of the 12mm (the Rokinon is cheaper, same lens) it's a no brainer. Get the 12mm

Who needs autofocus in a fisheye? The Samyang is sharp and cheap, I own a lot of Fuji glass but even I'd baulk at paying more for an infrequently used lens when the competition is that good.

For me it's probably 23mm, WCL and TCL - best of all it's the most compact 3 lens setup as well.

I'm guessing that took some pretty serious processing power to stitch!

Make sure you are disconnected from your wifi network first, and it's more reliable if you only use one device to connect with.

I've got the original tilt adaptor which uses a silver chuck around the lens mount to loosen and tighten. When using I set the camera to MF with peaking and use the viewfinder to tell me what's in focus. I'm having a much better success rate than when using the Canon 45mm TS-E that I had with the Canon system. The original Kipon tilt adapter allows the lens to move freely in any direction when it is loosened. It has the advantage of being compact and less expensive, but the lack of markings etc. mean the results are less replicable, and you have no idea how much you are tilted. That said, it's a vast improvement on freelensing and I've been happy with the results. Kipon have now released a new model that allows a measured degree of tilt in one direction which can locked in. The mount is rotatable so this tilt can be achieved in any direction. I will likely pick up one of these in due course. A big advantage is that you can set it to zero tilt and have a standard adapter. You're never sure if it's square with the original "silver chuck" adapter. I'm using the adapters with Nikon Series E manual focus lenses - I chose these because they are cheap and small in size. Sharpness is not really an issue, after all these are for artistic shots and with such a shallow plane of focus there's not a whole lot perfectly sharp anyway. I've found the main difference to be a massive drop in contrast compared to the Fuji lenses. I correct this in Lightroom, but if you shoot JPEG you will need some form of post processing to correct it. There's a couple of examples on the link I posted earlier http://chasingsummerphoto.com/general/kirsty-and-tims-wedding-echidna-gully-armidale-wedding-photography-nsw/ - the B&W shot of the couple in the field where he is much further away but both are in focus, and the B&W portrait a few shots further down. Cheers, Antony

Get two of the holsters, one on each hip - that way there's no fumbling around when you swap. You click one into the empty holster, remove the other from the other holster. Easy and very fast!

One of the reasons for switching to Fuji was my back. I was shooting with a 1Dx and a 5D3 on straps and was getting real issues. Since moving to the holsters I have to say I will never switch back to straps - it has revolutionized the way I work, and freed my shoulders to carry the super light Shootsac with the extra lens or accessory I may want at hand. No issues at all, I got two and a couple of extra pins so I can have one under my mini 90 etc. Make sure you tighten the pin with the wrench supplied - if you do it by hand it can work loose.

Here's my bag, I40 is missing from the empty slot (in for service). Bag also holds an L bracket (next to the Rokinon), a Canon off camera cable (under the 23mm), a set of off brand extension rings (under the 35mm), a RRS flash bracket (under the 50-140mm), a Nikon 24mm (for use with tilt adapter - likely will sell this as not using it) and a few packs on film for the Mini 90.

I use the Black widow camera holster http://spiderholster.com/black-widow-holster/ so that I can easily run with two cameras. With one holster on each hip I can instantly swap cameras without worry. I generally shoot with a combination of 23/56 or 35/56 in normal light. I'll bring in the other lenses as required. 18-55mm - Ceremony and family photos 10-24mm - Group photo and reception room 50-140mm - Ceremony close ups, reception speeches 12mm - low light reception, dance floor Tilt lenses - specialist portrait Thinking seriously about selling the 10-24mm, while sharp it's too slow and I have little need of the focal length for weddings. I have the Canon 16-35mm and a couple 5D3s for my commercial and studio work (along with the other f/2.8 zooms) so I could easily ditch it. If I get the 16-50mm f/2.8 I can cover that 24mm focal length, and lose the 18-55mm. I'll likely do this as it eliminates one lens from my bag with improved overall speed and IQ. It's lots of gear but it all fits nicely into a Thinktank Airport Airstream for carry on size in Australia. I use a Shootsac to carry a couple extra lenses, flash and batteries while working, so my load is light and I can swap out from the Thinktank as required.

I use the following for my weddings: X-T1 x 2 with battery grips 10-24mm f/4 23mm f/1.4 35mm f/1.4 56mm f/1.2 50-140mm f/2.8 18-55mm f/2.8-4 Nikon 50mm f/1.8 and 35mm f/2 on a Kipon tilt adapter Rokinon 12mm f/2 Instax Mini 90 Instax Wide 500AF Nissin i40 (plus other canon flash gear occasionally) Most of my coverage is with the primes, I use the zooms for ceremony and speeches. Here's a recent Fuji wedding: http://chasingsummerphoto.com/general/kirsty-and-tims-wedding-echidna-gully-armidale-wedding-photography-nsw/