jlmphotos

Agreed. I've made (so far) prints up to 36 x 24 of images made with the 18-55 and they are fantastic! Of course, there are many other factors that play into sharpness, and large print making: Did you use a suitable support? Was the camera locked down securely? Did you use electronic shutter to avoid the minuscule camera shake? Did you use optimal aperture? Did you use the self-timer or a remote release? Did you have any filters on the front of the lens that could potentially rob you of extra sharpness? There are many. many factors to consider when determining the sharpness of a lens as I, a pixel-peeper does, and/or making large prints.

Funny thing I used to mount my Nikon SB700 on my X-E1 (very top heavy) but it was fun to use, and it worked in manual! I'm still confused as to how to use my SB700 on my X-T1 and X-T2. I also have the Fuji EF42 but I'm never happy with the output. So the cactus triggers will work with my gear above? Anyone?

I tested my X-T2 this morning and here is what I found: I had two cards in the camera. In BACKUP MODE: If I took the card in slot 2 out, the camera locks up. If I insert the card back in slot 2, then take out the card in slot 1, same error. Which makes total sense. In SEQUENTIAL MODE: If i pull the card out slot 1, the camera still shoots. If I put the card back in slot 1, and then pull the card out of slot 2, the camera still works. In RAW/JPEG MODE: If I pull the card out of either slot, the camera won't shoot. Hope that helps.

I don't know about tone and color but those F2 lenses are hideously ugly. That's my 2 cents and I'm sticking to it.

Why hide it? Show it! And where'd you get it? Thanks

I'm going to test this and get back to you

I've been using the sister product, Iridient Developer on my mac, since Brian sent me a demo copy. That is one awesome piece of software. I've been considering leaving LR CC and just using Camera Bridge, and Iridient. LR has gotten really slow - even after I broke out my catalog into two different ones and reduced the amount of images down to 50,000 or so each cat. I'm getting sick and tired of this problem. I do love the database aspect of LR, and seeing all my folders in one place, and Bridge does it to a certain extent as well, but LR is getting over-bloated I think.

The camera if set tot he way you have it, and you moved a card from slot 2 into slot 1, and didn't replace the card in slot 2, it will not shoot. I experience the same issue. However, if you pull the card out of slot 1, and leave the other card in slot 2, then the camera will continue to work. I think this is a firmware problem. Again: I think we have a slight language barrier problem. I hope this helped.

If you have the save data setup set to overflow you shouldn't have to physically switch cards. Once slot 1 is full, it'll start filling up the card in slot 2. No need to do anything else. Is this the problem? I think we have a slight language barrier here. Let us know.

Oh I've had the burst shooting on my X-T2 as you explained it happen a couple of times. I found that it seems to occur in humid/wet conditions more than anywhere else. Very odd behavior. I have no plans of sending it in to Fuji at this point as it only happens here and there. If they are anything like Nikon they'll send it back and say they could not replicate the problem. So, until this is particular burst shooting issue becomes a constant, I'll just deal with it as it happens.

Good point about getting close to people or not. I hate people, so that issue is not relevant to me. Other than shooting immediate family I don't point my camera at humans -- Id rather point it at anything else. I can't begin to mention how many requests for individual, family, wedding, or new born photography I get. My answer is always the same: no. Street photography? Lord why anyone does that is beyond me. I won't be able to sell any without releases, and most of the images I see online just suck == B&W, too much contrast, too dark, no subject, blurry, I can go on and on. I'm by no means tootin' my own horn but still. Anyway, RANT OVER. My apologies to all who read this.

Same here. The rubber cup around the glass is in fact a dust magnet. Not sure how that can be remedied. Even the aftermarket larger eye piece is also a dust magnet.

I also have both and my 55-200 did "twist" a bit when I first got it a couple of years ago. Now it has loosened up to where it doesn't do that anymore.

I'm going to be the contrarian here I suppose. The 18-55 is my "don't leave home without it lens" period. I also own a bunch of primes (as you may note in my signature) including the 23 1.4 which is amazing! As a matter of fact I'm headed out for a four day long, out of state job this weekend and I'm packing the 16 1.4, the 35 1.4, and the 60mm 2.4. And, just in case, the 18-55 will be in my bag. I truly will try not to pull the 18-55 out of the bag as I'm trying to use my primes more. We shall see.

I'm not saying any of this is bad, or a complete deal breaker; but you get guys like this Huff fella and they go balls out on a particular brand. One thing I do have absolute working knowledge of is the HORRIBLE, Sony service. If you've ever dealt with Nikon (Melville NY) office, and you though that was bad, oh no... You've seen nothing like Sony. This is ONE huge reason I try to avoid everything Sony whenever I can.

YES.

Maybe it's just me but I find this software "intimidating"? Not sure if that's a good word though. I've tried it on three separate occasions and just couldn't get past the rocket science interface. Each time, I've returned to the warm, fluid womb of Lightroom; and on other occasions, Iridient. Sorry capture one. I don't want to take a rocketry class to use your software.

I've read some online fora about turning off OIS if the lens is being transported in a vehicle, blah, blah, blah. I never ever (except when on a tripod) turn off OIS. Heck, I've even left it on while on a tripod. Effects: None whatsoever. I'm sure if someone did a scientific test, at various shutter speeds someone somewhere would actually see a difference. Me? Meh. Honestly, I try to remember to turn OIS off when shooting at high(er) shutter speeds, but I usually don't so... No ill effects here.

Excellent choice! I've been buying from Gordy since my X-E1 days back in 2013.

Before this guy, or anyone else for that matter starts wetting their pants over the Sony, go over and read the hype, and the FINE PRINT. Or, better yet for a simple synopsis go to the bythom.com website and he'll explain it all there. Seriously. Go. Now.

I say: to each his/her own. I don't care. I have bigger things to worry about and better things to pursue.

Take a peak at Gordy's camera straps.

16 1.4 23 1.4 and 35 1.4 The best!!

I believe the 16 1.4 gives way more options, before being smaller and lighter than the 10-24 F4. Also, keep in mind the 10-24 F4 is not water resistant; where the 16 1.4 is. I have found the 16 to be extremely versatile - from near macro capability, to amazing wide-angle. I've used it for wider portraits as well. I looked at the 16 1.4 vs the 10-24 and I opted for the somewhat lighter, and I believe sharper 16, though the 10-24 sure provides a lot more options and versatility.

Sorry Guys and Gals, I have no idea how to post an image here, so how about I just leave a link to [/url]OBX_X-T2_7940.jpg by Jorge Moro, on Flickr">one image I'd love to show here, on my (new) Flickr Account -- because I could not remember my old PW...