CatsAreGods

Sure! But you have to go into the video menu and make sure the port is changed to support remote operation rather than "mic jack".

You're not using the mechanical shutter? If that's not it, try opening the flash after the camera is on.

I can't imagine how many planes overhead it would take to dim sunlight...if that were the case, we wouldn't have so much global warming!

It's definitely not optimal, but they are working on a complete rewrite.

I'm pretty sure they're referring to back-Button Focus (Manual Focus mode, with instant AF-S or AF-C). I've noticed an apparent improvement since updating the firmware.

What lens are you using?

Easy peasy! Find your main setting screen and change the left knob from switching between film simulations to exposure compensation.

You must have missed the emoji.

The only other AF macro lens for Fuji is the 60mm. Obviously you cannot retrofit autofocus onto a manual lens, but you can learn how to use manual focus. It's especially easy for macro! I suggest starting with Focus Peaking (High) in blue (or red/yellow depending on subject) and using a tripod. A focusing rail will make your life easier but it's not essential at the beginning. I just bought a superbly sharp manual focus macro lens...it was a Micro-Nikkor 55mm f3.5 (used with an adapter obviously) and it cost a whopping $50 on eBay. The Samyang should also give great results. The only reason I considered the Fuji 80mm was to get automatic focus stacking in camera, but the older lens has proper helicoid focusing so it's no problem to do that manually either.

After reading some horror stories of batteries swelling up after being charged in the camera (and they couldn't be removed), I bought a set of two Neewer NP-W126 batteries with a double charger from Amazon. Didn't notice the "S" was missing from the end, but since the original battery didn't last all that long, I figured 3 batteries would be better than one. It turned out fine. I do a lot of wildlife shooting and one battery will definitely not last all day. The original battery lasts longer than the Neewers, but not so much that the difference is worth the extra expense. The charger will run off a USB-C or micro USB cable so it's compatible with almost anything and it will work in the field if necessary. Note: I never shoot 4K video, but if I did I would probably use stock batteries or an external USB-C power bank.

I agree, and I think it's due to too many people who buy stuff they see on YouTube videos (or wherever) without doing enough -- or any -- research on what they're buying. It seems to be a great camera; just make sure a street retro camera is what you want. Or think of it as an inexpensive Leica, but you can't afford any other lenses for it anyway 😺

That's...weird. I am using the same camera and even the same card and have no problem. And this is even happening with an SD card reader? Are you sure the raw .RAF files are on the SD card? Try making sure you can see "hidden items" in Windows Explorer.

Nope.

I also have an X-S10. You cannot depress either dial, but I definitely have it set up with front dial=aperture and rear=shutter speed. I have auto ISO and the left dial set to exposure compensation. So it CAN be done!

The X-S10 has a slightly different RAW format from older Fujifilm cameras. If you have an older version of Lightroom (one that is not updated online automatically), it probably can't open them directly. You might have to convert them using a Fujifilm or third-party program. OTOH, if your problem is with JPGs...that would be weird.

Yep! Looks like a power cord with AC plug.

The camera doesn't know or care what's supplying USB power, but I'm not sure if you're talking about recording OVER the USB connection. Most computer USB ports are limited to how much power they will put out.

I use the top left dial for exposure compensation along with auto ISO and manual everything else.

That one does look odd, but with such a low shutter speed, it's possible the water in the middle was moving faster than the water close to shore.

Glad someone could do it. I got the instructions but it was beyond my frustration level

Ah, if that's what you're up to, you're in luck because I just did measurements for someone else on this exact topic: For this kind of nonsense you need both a regular ammeter and a USB ammeter, as well as a 8.4V high current power supply...luckily I did!

This Andycine is the one I used for a custom battery solution (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07SB5TM4G?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details). I just cut off the connector and kept the adapter Once you figure out which way to insert it (and triple check the polarity) and it works, take a picture of the battery in the compartment with your phone and keep it handy so you won't screw something up.

OK, I did a whole bunch of research for you and found that the X-S10 uses about 1.1 amps (1100ma) while recording 4K video. When the camera is off, the power bank will charge the battery. However, this is not like a GoPro that can run directly off a power bank. The camera will indeed use some (not all) power from the external USB power supply (power bank in this case) to help run the camera, but only while the battery is inside. This way, you can even use a low-power USB 2.0 port (500ma) as external auxiliary power, because the battery has enough reserve to run the camera by itself. So the extra power from the USB port is basically used to slow the battery discharge. What this means is that you can use any USB power bank whatsoever to help power the camera, as long as you start with a fully-charged battery in the camera. The larger the capacity of the power bank, the longer the camera should run. If you turn the camera off between takes, the camera battery will be recharged by the power bank, and that will give you the most shooting time. I measured the current drawn from the USB port (again while recording 4K video) and it went no higher than 860ma, which means that some power is always being taken from the camera battery.

I haven't used X RAW very much, but in many such cases, people forget to change the setting in their connection menu. If that's not your issue, you might consider downloading the free Capture One Express that you get by registering your camera online and use that to convert the files (or even edit some photos).

I have never heard of a camera that doesn't support 30 fps. On Fujifilm cameras, it often appears as 29.97, which is technically correct but might be confusing. In any case, you cannot go wrong with 30 fps (or 29.97) on YouTube or anywhere else.