MirrorMirror

I think you had the last word. Oops, no it was you. Ahhh I see it was me. Think I've had too much Christmas cheer, at least that what I thought it said on the bottom of the glass. Goodnight, one and all.

Come on now. This is denigrating into some pantomime version of a forum discussion; grow up. At least I've learned that built like a tank is only a figure of speech, I thought it was literally built with tracks and a turret. Now what does patronising and sarcasm mean?

It's missing the gun off the ugly looking top turret. edit: oops missed the smiley face!

It's not normal; there'd be lots of complaints. It could be many things, either user error or camera settings or a combination. Really need more details and/or examples. In the short term before details or examples can be given try a reset to factory defaults. .

Always useful to read the entire thread. You will see the original post was answered (by me) at post #3, and acknowledged by the OP in post #5.

The X100T can be charged directly from a USB lead, so no need to buy an additional charger. So OP, yes the power pack can charge the camera, that's what a portable power pack is for.

Your answer was correct. However if it hadn't been correct an issue with a freshly bought camera should never be the subject of a repair. Newly bought items should be replaced or refunded by the retailer, not repaired.

This point of fine tuning is exactly as adzman808 mentioned in post #2. Each of the WB settings are capable of fine tuning via the "matrix graphic". It usually happens accidentally when the WB can be adjusted by a direct function button. The button gets pressed by rubbing on your body, a couple of presses and the fine tuning is adjusted away from centre. Reassign the WB button to something else and access WB via the menu or Q menu to avoid pressing the dedicated function button.

If it has worn so quickly, after such a few put downs and pick ups, then you could argue it is a genuine defect with your particular camera. If I were you I'd take such an expensive item back to the retailer and insist on my consumer rights (...items to be fit for purpose and last a "reasonable" length of time...) by getting a replacement (not a repair) or a full refund. I understand that it's not an issue for you and you'll probably not do this. But by standing up for your rights you make it better for all.

Sounds reasonable to me. Do you think our expectations will have an impact on Fuji's production cycle. I'm thinking if we all thought really hard all at the same time.

I apologise. Can you confirm a few things to try and troubleshoot your issue? When you experienced the preflash at your family party did you have face detection on or off. If it was on, when you turn it off do you experience the same delayed preflash? Thanks Edit. Sorry I see that I am not talking to the original poster. Original poster, can you give the detail please?

Turn off face detection. With face detection you will get red eye reduction (not TTL preflash) whether or not you have activated it.

Glad to have helped. Yes, capitals signify SHOUTING in writing. It doesn't bother me but some see it as rude, or RUDE! I prefer not to put anything personal on the internet, you never know how it can be used. I've already registered your lenses with Fuji and requested a refund!! A colon and right bracket denotes a smiley face, or jest, and will appear here as a yellow face with smile.

Turn off face detection. With face detection you will get red eye reduction (not TTL preflash) whether or not you have activated it. Do you take just RAW, switch to taking RAW+JPG, as well as switching off face detection, if using flash.

Infinity is very rarely, if at all, ever at the end of a lens' rotation (any lens, any manufacturer, ever) This is due to temperature. If it were at the end for a warm temperature it wouldn't be at the end for a cold one. "Things" expand and contract due to temperature; it's the way of the world. Infinity will be towards the end, turn to the end and bring it back slightly. Many lenses don't even have a hard stop and continue to rotate. There are many posts/helps on the internet showing how to focus at infinity. A simple technique is to focus on a distant object, it's effectively at infinity. Thank yourself lucky you're not using film; then it's a real bummer. I'd advise against SHOUTING in a post; you'll upset some. I DON'T MIND. Also against quoting your serial numbers.

I have a XT10, with the 18mm, 35mm, and 18-55mm. But when I'm travelling for a holiday I just take my X100T, and sometimes just my Canon G9X, and for video I use my phone.

In camera produced JPGs work wonders for my stress levels; highly recommended. Take a picture, take another; and repeat.

My point was that if you consider it faulty don't have it repaired get a replacement.

The movement is very small; I'd accept and live with it. If you aren't happy don't consider sending it to a service centre for repair. As it's so new it would need to go back to the retailer for a replacement. If you're really not happy consider taking it back to the retailer for a full refund. Never take an expensive, recently bought item for repair, insist on replacement or refund.

I just use the shutter button.

If you're a hobbit I would ask Gandalf I think the best solution is as you have determined. Single focus box, move it to a face, use a small aperture to get a reasonable depth of focus, take the shot.

I'm happy with AWB on my Fuji cameras so I don't use the fine tune; I have no need. But what is the obvious reason not to use it, it's not that obvious to me. If I was unhappy and for example thought it was too blue I would fine tune it warmer, why wouldn't you?

AutoWB is generally very good on Fuji cameras, as it is also with the majority of cameras from other manufacturers. You can of course fine tune it if you're not happy, as you can with most other cameras.

For Dynamic Range, which is principally a JPG help, I tend to use Auto which chooses between 100 or 200 on the later cameras, or sometimes set to 100, which is Dr off. For the others, which are also JPG only attributes I tend to leave them set at 0. If you want to experiment take an image in RAW and use the in-camera convertor to "develop" multiple copies, each with a different set of shadow, highlight etc changes. You can then compare them yourself. I found after experimenting that I was happy with the default settings. If you take RAW files forget all the JPG settings and just alter everthing in post production.

I would take the camera back to the retailer and insist on either a replacement or a refund.