Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Yes, JPEG engine is responsible.

To be honest I don´t care who is responsible for waxing. X-Pro2 has option for switching off the waxing and that´s enough for me. So now I have to wait for X-E3 and I will completely skip X-Trans II generation cameras including X-E2s.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

that's great but how does this help ppl who have an xt-1 or xt-10? I really don't want to buy the xpro-2 just to avoid the waxy skin tones b/c if that is the only option then i'd rather go back to my Nikon full frame where this isn't even an issue. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest Ridgeback

LMAO ... this fred is about the funniest thing I've read here on this forum so far.

 

Edit: typo.

Edited by Ridgeback
Link to post
Share on other sites

that's great but how does this help ppl who have an xt-1 or xt-10? I really don't want to buy the xpro-2 just to avoid the waxy skin tones b/c if that is the only option then i'd rather go back to my Nikon full frame where this isn't even an issue. 

 

There is a very simple fix: if you go above ISO 1600 use raw format or raw + JPEG. So, whenever there is a problem with the JPEG, use the raw. Problem solved.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest Ridgeback

 

And in case you care about typos: it's thread, not fred ;-)

 

:lol: I care about typo[graphical error]s so much that I can reveal a little secret to you: Using 'fred' instead of 'thread' is not a typo but the use of a homophone (any good encyclopedia will clue you in on both counts). Non-American native English speakers (mainly Brits, Aussies and Kiwis) often enjoy playing with their fabulous language.

 

So, sadly your little schoolmasterly correction is completely misplaced. Better luck next time, eh?

 

But cheers for contributing further to the humour of this thread. :D

 

Edit: orthography.

Edited by Ridgeback
Link to post
Share on other sites

You can't use RAW over 6400 ISO.  For those who want to shoot in very low light, at 12800 or 25600, it is a problem.

Just under expose by how ever many stops you need, and "push" the images by using in-camera raw development. It's the same thing you would get from JPEG at Extended ISO, but you get to keep your RAW file also in case you want to develop it later.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you underexpose you loose one of the big advantages of mirrorless cameras that the view finder shows the exposure bevor you pull the trigger.

 

I agree, that using RAW is the best to do when you want to drive the sensor to its limit. So I never understood why Fuji decided to make the highest ISOs JPEG only on the older cameras and why it needed so many years and a new camera to change it. The only thing I can think of is that they were afraid of too much noise in the view finder.

 

Edit: unwanted characters removed.

Edited by Jürgen Heger
Link to post
Share on other sites

:lol: I care about typo[graphical error]s so much that I can reveal a little secret to you: Using 'fred' instead of 'thread' is not a typo but the use of a homophone (any good encyclopedia will clue you in on both counts). Non-American native English speakers (mainly Brits, Aussies and Kiwis) often enjoy playing with their fabulous language.

 

So, sadly your little schoolmasterly correction is completely misplaced. Better luck next time, eh?

 

But cheers for contributing further to the humour of this thread. :D

 

Edit: orthography.

 

Yeah, writing me a personal message telling me how stupid I am and then not replying to my answer but instead writing another post about how stupid I am. What's wrong with you?

 

It seems you didn't see the smiley I wrote and instead felt personally attacked by me being "schoolmasterly". But since you then decided to teach me I'll let you have that fun. But don't embarrass yourself. Homophones are words that are pronounced the same (as the Greek meaning clearly implies). Some people might pronounce "fred" the same as "thread" but that is as far from being correct as you are from being a humble person. You can have fun playing with your language as much as you like but don't spread incorrect stuff here pretending to be something better.

 

Now let's get back to the topic.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you underexpose you loose one of the big advantages of mirrorless cameras that the view finder shows the exposure bevor you pull the trigger.

 

I agree, that using RAW is the best to do when you want to drive the sensor to its limit. So I never understood why Fuji decided to make the highest ISOs JPEG only on the older cameras and why it needed so many years and a new camera to change it. The only thing I can think of is that they were afraid of too much noise in the view finder.

 

Edit: unwanted characters removed.

 

That's an evf option you can change in the settings. Dark/ bad lighting really doesnt benefit from using your EVF to figure exposure. If anything its better to not judge exposure using the evf in these conditions as then it becomes much more difficult to focus and view the scene in the first place. 

 

If you are shooting in tough lighting conditions, I'd be locking in ISO (on my XE-2 I stick to 800 or less) and shutter anyway, those will not change in the same scene shot to shot much. After shooting, either post process or if you prefer the OOC jpegs, use the in camera RAW developer and push the exposure up as needed. The images are much cleaner this way, I never enjoyed high ISO shot noise and color rendition, it's pretty ugly for the most part. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...