Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi all, 

Sorry to meet you in such a moment of stress but here goes. Last night I shot an event, an important one. It's primarily what I do outside of studio.

This morning when I got home to upload the images and start editing I noticed about 30% (consecutive) of my shots were MIA. I uploaded what I could and put the card back in the camera (xpro2). There they were! Visible in camera. So I try a new card reader but the same 30% are missing. Then I tried directly connecting the camera with the card in it and still, they were missing on my computer. Then I tired switching card slots and trying everything again with no new results. At this point, I decided to restart my computer, make a cup of coffee and have a sit before I snap.

I return to my camera and start scrolling, the elusive 30% are now gone. Like really gone this time, nowhere to be found on the card, camera or floating in my now cold coffee. I'm baffled. 

Does anyone have any thoughts on how this happened? How I can prevent it in the future? And, with a glimmer of hope, how to find those shots?

 

 

Thanks

the SD card is a SanDisk 128GB Extreme PRO 95nb/s

Link to post
Share on other sites

You are possibly SOL. I have seen this on bad SD cards before. You've got to remember that what you're seeing on the camera's LCD is a subset of the image that was recorded. I think that to speed up the raster processing Canon, Nikon, Fuji, Sony, etc all keep a boiler plate version of the SD card in nRAM then just paste in the thumbnail version of the image(s). Due to the position of the thumbnail in the image file this works for a while but after repeated views of the card's contents the refresh erases the path string and hence the image data. If you've still got the Raw image data you are Holden, if not ... "that's life".

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

Once I had to use an undelete utility to get images. 

I have Sandisk cards and used their undelete software and it worked for most of the images.  In my case, it wasn't card error however, I had accidentally formatted the card with images on it I still needed.

 

Years ago when I shot Nikon I had a couple images on the CF card dedicated to RAW files get corrupt.  But on the 2nd card I had JPG copies and the JPG were OK.  When that happened I was convinced on the need for 2 card slots.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...