Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Thanks, Ileo. There is a visible difference between the Off and On settings in these photos. Fascinating!

 

Thank you. Actually I always has the shoot without lens ON, due the fact I often switch lens. I've been told about this "issue" and I've tried. And you saw the result above.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyway, this that you show has absolutely nothing to do with the macroscopic complaint by OP, whose problems are much more evident .

 

Of course. Just since I asked about this matter, I posted my experience.

As simple as that.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Out of curiosity, when you reviewed the images that came out of the camera for sharpness, did you review the JPGs or the RAW files?

 

The reason Im asking is because Im used to work with RAW files all the time, at least when Im working with my Nikon camera, but with the Fuji, my assumption was based on the RAW files. Yesterday I tested the JPGs and these were much better.

Link to post
Share on other sites

of course the camera sharpens the jpg (by how much depends on your settings).

 

 

Anyway, when you look at RAF file you are looking at the embedded jpeg contained in it because you can’t see the RAW so you are looking at a very low resolution image.

Link to post
Share on other sites

And speaking of the jpeg files, make sure the Lens Modulation Optimizer is turned ON (IQ Menu, second page). I guess you've already checked this, in which case, apologies - but this comment might help someone else reading this. Of course the Lens Modulation Optimizer only affects the jpegs, but with some lenses it does make a big difference in correcting any inherent faults.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have seen a brand new 18-55 that was a bad example. Owned by a friend, it was considerably less sharp than mine, especially on the left hand side. He returned it for replacement. Bearing in mind that this is the kit lens it may be that quality control is not quite so good as with the more expensive lenses.

 

Any difference in sharpness with the shoot without lens setting on is almost certainly down to experimental error. I can't see that it could possibly affect contrast or focal length. I could be wrong though so I will try it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

exactly, so you have been watching ( and making your judgement ) based on the embedded low res .

 

You need to process it, apply sharpening and THEN you have the real high res image

 

please read this thread from the beginning (go to page 1)

 

http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/1837-possible-concern-over-quality/page-2

 

and this

 

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/raw-file-format.htm

Edited by milandro
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Before I bought my XPro-2 I rented one plus the 18-55mm. That particular copy of the lens was really soft. So there are definitely some crummy ones out there. My current kit is the 10-24mm, the 35mm f/2, 50mm f/2--all excellent. I also have the 56mm f1.2, and although it's nice and sharp, it's a little slow to focus. I use the camera for street photography mostly.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...