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dfaye

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Everything posted by dfaye

  1. Just a thought: some makeup contains small particles of reflective material, the idea being to give the complexion a lustrous look. The white spots on your model's face do look a bit like reflected light from a strong light-source (compare also the reflected light on the brim of the hat). If you notice this phenomenon mainly on faces, I wonder if this could be the cause? (Normally the reflective particles in makeup are very small, but I guess they could clump together...)
  2. Both entirely normal. In the first case, the camera is taking a long exposure because you've got the lens cap on, and then (because you've got long exposure noise reduction activated) it is effectively taking that shot again to identify the noise. The second shot then gets "subtracted" from the first. You can deactivate long exposure noise reduction and only turn it on when you actually need it; then your accidental exposures won't take so long! Your second point also sounds quite normal; the electronics are just readjusting from displaying a played-back image to displaying a live sensor view. The X-T2 is a great camera, and I hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it.
  3. I find Daylight WB works well in most conditions (the light from the flash is daylight-balanced). However if you've got a lot of ambient light that is not daylight and you want that to be a feature of your photo as well (for example night shots in city streets, or indoors under artificial lighting), then Auto WB is often a good choice - although it can be unpredictable. I find it's a matter of playing around to see what renders best.
  4. I bought a bag of 10 Nikon sync terminal covers very cheaply on ebay several years ago: they fit fine on the XT/XH cameras. (I think the dealer was in China.)
  5. Something else you could check: go into the AF&MF menu, then to Release/Focus Priority on p.2 of that menu. If your AF-S and/or AF-C priority selection is set to "Focus", then the camera won't take a picture unless the image is properly in focus. (I keep mine set to "Release" for both, even if it means a few out-of-focus shots). It might also be an idea to re-format your cards before trying again.
  6. Go to the set-up menu (wrench icon) and then to "Screen Set-Up", then to "Preview Exp/WB in Manual Mode" and turn that setting OFF. You'll then be able to see what you're doing in the EVF/LCD. It helps to put that setting on a Function Button or into My Menu, so you can toggle it on and off easily. (I've got it near the top of My Menu.)
  7. Thanks for the update, Heather. All sounds good. And congratulations on buying the 80mm macro and the 100-400: as you will have discovered, they're both stunning lenses - I reckon they're up there with the very best of the full-frame competition. Happy shooting!
  8. I'm not a tech expert, but these are the things I would try. (In fact you've probably already tried some of them, but here goes anyway.) First, I'd gently clean the contacts on the SD card, and also use a bulb blower or similar to clear any possible obstructions from the card slot. If you've got another SD card, maybe try that in case it was a card fault. (Some people have reported problems with certain brands of card: SanDisk are what Fuji recommends - and it should of course be UHS I (not II).) For good measure I'd also clean the battery contacts and make sure the battery compartment is clean. Another possibility is that the camera is getting itself in a twist if too many things are set to auto. (It shouldn't happen, but sometimes it does!) So I'd try a fully manual setting: for the sake of argument, ISO 200, aperture f8, shutter 1/125, Dynamic Range 100, and put the drive dial on S - single shot. If that works, then the problem may just have been a passing glitch. If none of the above works, then it may be time to get Fuji or a professional repairer take a look. Hope you get it sorted soon.
  9. Total depth of the XE3/15-45 combo, from back of camera to front of lens cap, is around 9mm/3.5 inches. Still pretty small, and lightweight, but you need large pockets.
  10. The first thing I'd check is whether the View Mode button is working properly. With the camera turned on, it should cycle between Eye Sensor, LCD Only, EVF Only + Eye Sensor, and Eye Sensor + LCD Image Display with each press of the button. (It's easiest to check this with your eye to the EVF.) When it is set on Eye Sensor you should get the automatic switching that you want. If you don't, then it does sound as though there's some defect.
  11. I think this goes to the heart of the matter: Fuji appear to be making it as difficult as possible to claim the cashbacks, and it is good to see these problems being aired as a warning to others. I've had similar experiences in the past and although I did eventually get my money, the tormented procedures, the contradictory instructions and the defective websites were enough to put me off this time round. I never had this problem in all my years with Canon. I see that Fuji are offering straight cashbacks (upfront, at point of purchase) with their GFX gear. That's excellent. They need to go back to doing this with their X-series gear as well. Competition is hotting up with Canon and Nikon entering the mirrorless market. Fuji needs to look after its loyal customers. There, rant over! But thanks to all of your for sharing your experiences, and I'm glad that some at least have got sorted.
  12. How ridiculous! You have indeed done everything according to the rules, and they are bound by law (Trade Descriptions) to honour the terms of their advertisements. I could go on at length (but won't) about Fuji's ill-thought-out claims process. (And yes - bad new for those in Northern Ireland!) I do hope you get this sorted soon. Please continue the updates - and congratulations on your marriage!
  13. I can't see any reason why you shouldn't get the cashback on either of your transactions: you've done all that's required. It's just a matter of getting round the deficiencies in the system. I reckon you should get a reply to your email within a day or two. Fingers crossed for you - and looking forward to hearing a positive result!
  14. Hi Heather, it's really frustrating, isn't it? I think the problem with Fujifilm themselves is that they've offloaded the whole process to this outside company, so don't really understand (care?) about the glitches. Do please report back, because your experience will be helpful to lots of us. Once again, Good Luck!
  15. I've had similar problems in the past with Fuji's promotions claim site. The process seems to be run by some outside organisation, but when I had problems they responded well to my email and let me simply email them the relevant forms and info. There is an email address in the Terms and Conditions for the current (Winter 2018) promotion, as follows. Don't worry if you haven't managed to get the Claim ID etc: just email them and tell them the problem. I hope this helps. Good luck! 16. Email address for correspondence is fujifilm@promotion-support.com; please provide your unique Claim ID supplied during the claim process with any correspondence. Further details can be found on Support page.
  16. For what it's worth (not much, I'm afraid), I can confirm that my several Canon RS-60E3 remote releases (2.5mm jack) are still working fine with my X-T2 and other Fuji cameras. It does sound as if something's preventing a connection in your X-T2's 2.5mm socket. Sorry I can't be of more help.
  17. I agree - it's a crazy place to have put the Q button; I'm accidentally activating it all the time. The trouble is, I do use the Q screen quite often, so locking the button isn't an option for me. Here's hoping Fuji finds a more sensible location for it on the X-H2, when that eventually arrives!
  18. Has the White Balance setting been shifted to a warmer tone? Go into WB and click the arrow on the right of your chosen setting to bring up the WB shift screen. It's easy to accidentally move the point off-centre.
  19. Thanks, Adam: very helpful. I haven't yet downloaded C1E, but will do so soon, and it's great to have some clear, well-illustrated instructions to get me started.
  20. Yes, I don't think it was available for the X-T1: it came in with the next generation of cameras. Certainly available on the X-E3.
  21. Set-up menu (wrench icon) > Save data set-up > Copyright info > Delete copyright info. Then enter your own author and copyright info.
  22. And you may find that the effect is stronger at certain apertures. Given that macro lenses tend to be used stopped down to f11 or beyond, maybe the algorithms enhance jpeg contrast/sharpness at those apertures: fine for macro, but not always what you want in a wider scene. But I find it a great little lens for close-ups.
  23. I see what you mean; it's as if the jpeg has had too much contrast/clarity applied in-camera, and maybe a bit too much sharpness. I get something similar with my XF18-135, but I haven't noticed it with the Touit 50mm (although I've used the latter almost exclusively for close-ups and macro). In the case of my 18-135 I get the same "crunchy" effect whichever camera it's on, so I've concluded it's a characteristic either of that individual lens, or of the 18-135 lenses in general - it hasn't occurred with other lenses I've owned. So if I'm working with the jpegs from the 18-135 I just resign myself to toning down the contrast/clarity a little in LR: that usually works well enough. But I hope someone else can offer you a more useful comment on your problem with the Touit!
  24. I'm intrigued by this. I haven't noticed any such problems with the Zeiss Touit 50mm on my X-T2, or any other jpeg problems. Have you checked that your jpeg settings for noise reduction etc haven't been accidentally adjusted? I usually keep NR at -1, and Highlight Tone, Shadow Tone and Sharpness at 0 unless there's a particular reason to change them. I agree with you, though, that image quality on the X-T1 has always been pretty good.
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