Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi

Just bought the x-t20 with the 18-55mm kit lens.

Did test shots and found very soft images at 18mm f2.8. I know that in 18mm f2.8 its not very sharp in compare to f5.6 or f8.0 but that softness makes it somewhat useless at that f stop. IS is OFF.

Maybe it needs to be calibrated? 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a similar problem with my first copy of this lens: mine was rather soft generally,  but particularly at the 55 end. After some research online I discovered lots of comments about variation between copies. I exchanged mine for another, and the new one is beautifully sharp. I'd strongly recommend that you try exchanging yours. Good luck.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just bought the x-t20 with the 18-55mm kit lens.

Did test shots and found very soft images at 18mm f2.8. I know that in 18mm f2.8 its not very sharp in compare to f5.6 or f8.0 but that softness makes it somewhat useless at that f stop. IS is OFF.

IS is OFF .  Maybe this explains ..... what shutter speed did you shoot at ?  at 1/60 or slower speed the lack of IS might affect the perceived sharpness.

Link to post
Share on other sites

IS is OFF . Maybe this explains ..... what shutter speed did you shoot at ? at 1/60 or slower speed the lack of IS might affect the perceived sharpness.

The speed was way above 1/60. When I get home I will upload a jpg straight out of the camera so you can see it.

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

All X camera with interchangeable lenses have the option to shoot without lens but why would THAT have anything to do with sharpness?

 

It doesn’t.

 

Anyway, to debunk this before becomes a myth... here a few shots with and without shoot without lens, they look identically, sharp, to me!

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by milandro
Link to post
Share on other sites

without option without lens

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I took another set of photos and Im starting to think that maybe it is not the softness of the lens but something else.

About 1 every 5 images comes out not sharp.

I uploaded an example of such photo. I wish I could attach 1:1 images but I added a 1:1 crop of the left side of the photo.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

It doesn’t.

 

Actually it does. I discovered since short time. I took a sample a couple days ago to send it and I don't have it anymore.

But it's quite clear in your roof pictures. Check 'em better.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve checked very well before I published  the pictures and it doesn’t the pictures do not differ anymore than any picture shot by hand and not on a tripod would from another,

 

Anyway, what will be the theory behind your notion? It is a simple on off switch and nothing more. It doesn’t activate or disacrtivate anything else.

 

 

 

 

Regardless of our difference of opinions on the impact this feature.

 

It is absolutely clear that OP pictures have much more to them that it is wrong than mine! Haze , lack of contrast, perhaps a purple color shift too ( the color banding I suppose is due to resizing).

Edited by milandro
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm interested in this discussion of the effects - or lack of effects - of the Shoot Without Lens setting on IQ. Can any others offer advice on this, please? Like milandro, I can't see any differences in my images whether I have the setting on or off, and I can't understand how this setting could affect IQ if it is simply left on. The setting is buried deep in the Set-up menu and there's no way of assigning it to My Menu or the Q menu, so it would be a real hassle to keep turning it on and off again every time I want to use a Samyang lens! 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a couple shots I took a little while ago. Even if the light changed a little bit between the two shots (doing a cloud passing by), they were taken with the camera still on the ground, auto shot, auto focus and nothing else. The first images are with shoot without lens OFF, the second ones with the option ON.

As you can see, it's not just my opinion but there's a difference in contrast and in the focal lenght between the two options.

Of course is a ON-OFF switch, but I think it affect the presence of any sensor on the lens. I don't know technically what this means, I guess is just a software difference. The images taken with the option OFF are sharper, no matter what.

The images are not resized nor modified in any way. The crops are at 100%

DSCF2714.jpgDSCF2715.jpg

 

Above corner with option OFF, below option ON. Crop 100%

corner_OFF.jpg

corner_ON.jpg

 

Above center option OFF, below ON

center_OFF.jpg

center_ON.jpg

 

Center image above option OFF, below ON. Crop 100%

center_2_ON.jpg

center_2_ON.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

still,this is not apparent in any of my pictures. the variations that you propose are so minimal that can be attributed to any number of things.

 

 

I don’t understand why switching on or off any function of the camera simply linked to a mechanical thing would produce any such effect and , most importantly, why this wouln’t be mentioned on any manual of any X camera published by themselves or other authors.

 

THIS along wit my empirical observation (along with a pinch of good old skepticism) make absolutely unconvinced ot this supposed effect that Fuji never disclosed.

 

Anyway, this that you show has absolutely nothing to do with the macroscopic complaint by OP, whose problems are much more evident .

Edited by milandro
Link to post
Share on other sites

Another 18-55 is soft thread again huh.

Might as well respost my post from that thread

 

 

Took this one today on poorly lit room @ ISO 800 where the lens is the softest which is wide open f/4 at 55mm. Thank to to the OIS, I could shot this @ 1/15.
Straight out of famera, no editing. Sharp enough in my eyes. Last time I worried about sharpness, I had a Canon

33212018724_215d87de95_h.jpgDSCF2883 by Filip Hermelin, on Flickr

 
Since like I spamming my pics, here's another "soft" 18-55 shot 

35492018395_f6c409b310_b.jpgDSCF8116 by Filip Hermelin, on Flickr
 
100% crop
0GHPil8.png
Edited by Hermelin
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...