Sandro_gsp

only yesterday I came across your post. Thank you so much for enlightening me ! I had tried many solutions before : ACR, Capture1, Xtransormer and few others. I had never considered DxO pure Raw. Wow : It's a game changer ! Up to 25600 Iso the results are perfectly fine (not only acceptables!) ! Could you believe it ?

> I do find stabilization to be really helpful and find it pretty reliable to push the rule of thumb to half of the focal > length and still get a clear photo. indeed it is helpful ! But not to the extend they claim. I'm not a sniper but I don't have shaky hands either. I feel confident to about 2 or 3 stops gain. 6 or 7 stops are pure fantasy (maybe sometimes, when you are lucky, if ever very specific conditions are met... and so on) . Not for a regular use.

>You mean the Marketing people were stretching the truth? Inconceivable! ehehehehhhh ! "television always says the truth" . Something like this 🙂 >But it’s down to the individual photographer to ascertain how much compensation they can actually achieve. I would rather say : it's down to everybody to decide how much shakiness he accepts ! Btw : that fuji web page only explains how the stabilization is achieved. There is no mention on how they pull out those fantastic numbers ! Anyway : I feel sure down to 1/30sec . 1/15 sec with some care, 1/8sec with more care. Going beyond is like hoping to win a lottery. I might have great expectations, I know... samebody less fussy than me can use 1/4, 1/2 or even 1sec. Good luck !

I came to the conclusion that Image Stabilization stops are blatantly overextimated. At least for Fuji camera and lenses. recently some lenses are advertized as having 6 stops IS. See the XF16-80 for example. Fuji H2S boasts up to 7 stops !!! Is it realistic ? To me it is not, it's far, very far away from the reality. Let's take a 35mm FL , a very common and appreciated kind of lens. The FullFrame equivalent is about 50, so the golden rule is : use a shutter speed at least 1/50. To stay on a safe side let's say : use at least 1/100sec Now , 1 stop advantage gives 1/50, 2 stops 1/25, 3 stops 1/12, 4 stops 1/6 , 5 stops 1/3, 6 stops 1/1.5 second. Crazy. Impossible ! Is there anybody in the world able to shoot hand-free at about 1sec shutter speed ??? Not even a sniper, IMO. Is any of you able to go out and shoot confidently at that crazy shutter speed ?? Of course many will say : that shutter speed is not necessary, and I agree, but that's beyond the point. The point is : is that possible ? Who can really do it ? who can shoot safely all the times (or at least the majority of the times) at about 1 or 1/2 second ?? And this leads me to a conclusion : the advertized Stabilization stops are totally deceiving, a blatant marketing hype, and a great exageration. I wonder how they are allowed to do it !

it happened to me as well. My H2S wouldn't work after firmware update. Luckily I found a trick : just remove the SD card, and it will work again ! After that of course you can reinsert your SD card.

Does the in-camera focus staking work with the XF60 ?? Today I tried with my X-H2s , I set focus stacking as manual , step5 , seconds 0 , shots : 40 Just in case something might go wrong I repeated the shots with seconds 1 (1 second from one picture to the next). At home I downloaded the picture into my computer, and I discovered that the focus did not change from the first to the last picture ! In short : is focust stacking possible with XF60 ?? (apart using some rail, of course) ?

I had a similar problem with a X-S10 . When I put the dowloaded file in a 32MB SD card, everything went smootly. I suspect a 32MB SD card is formatted Fat32, while with higher capacities exFAT is used . Give a try!

I had already downloaded the files again. And I had tried again. This is what worked: I put the downloaded file inside an (old) 32GB SD card. Maybe a 128GB card (formatted exFat) is not supported for the upgrade process.

I discovered there is a new firmware for X-S10 : the 2.30 version. For the first time the new firmare does not seem to work : when trying to update I receive the message : "New Firmware is Broken". Am I the only one ? Has anybody received the same message ?

that's exacly my finding, without a spectrometer. In my Raw processing routine, I always have to lower the Kelvin temperature by 200 or 300K . SOmetimes even 500K !!!!

>There is no such thing as wrong white balance, Not really. try this : 1 - take a picture of something outside your window, in different conditions and at different days and hours. 2 - put the pictures in your computer and compare yourself what you see. i.e. : look at the picture and look outside the window. --------------- my point is ; the fuji white balance is way too often wrong, because it's different from the reality I see. I don't say "bad" , or "unpleasant" , that would be subjective. I say : different from the reality.

Currently I own an X-S10 , but in the past I had several different Fuji Apc-s cameras. Every camera showed a noticeable WB shift . I.e. in Post production I have to lower down the Kelvin temperature by 200 al least, often down by 500 , to get a natural look. The worst was the X-Pro2. Also the X-H1 had the same problem, although less blatant. Before you tell .... no ... it isn't my monitor . I have a Flickr subscription and I see a lot of pictures made by other fellows around the world. No other brand show the same WB shift (towards the yellowish area). But a lot of Fuji cameras do show a lot !!!!! To the point than I can tell if the picture has been taken by a Fuji camera just looking at the (wrong) white balance. Has anybody ever noticed this effect ? btw : no big deal .... I can live with it. I'm still an happy fuji user.

ok, thanks a lot ! At least I discovered how to fix it ; using "shooting only" as Ibis method. It saves quite a lot of battery, too !!!!!

do you mean the problem has been fixed in X-T4 and X-S10 but not on X-H1 ? Did you do any test ?

I didn't chang the front switch ( S/C/M ) , that's for focusing: I changed the stabilization setting ( Ibis ) : from continuous to shoot-only. This wrong behaviour shows up only with my Zoom lens, not with my prime lenses. The tests I did today were shooting a tree in front of my windows , no wind at all. And I discovered that pictures taken with shoot-only are wharp, while with continuous Ibis are not. This problems is with every exposure time from 1/500 sec. down to 1/30th

Lately I noticed the pictures taken with X-H1 and XF16-80 were kinda blurry. But luckily every picture taken with my primes was OK..... Of course the blurriness can be seen only enlarging the pictrures up to 100% . I was about to throw my XF16-80 zoom in the trashcan , when I had an idea : I switched the stabilization from continuous to "shoot only" Et voilà : now all pictures taken with my zoom are crisp and sharp ! Why, oh why ? Where is the problem with Ibis continuous? is it the camera ? or the zoom lens ? p.s. : both camera and lens firmware are updated.

IBIS + OIS should be working toghether to get better results. Or , at least, this is what FUji claims .... But ..... has anybody ever tested it ??? I tested with XF16-80 mounted on X-E3 (no Ibis) and mounted on X-H1 ( Ois + Ibis) To me Fuji claim is simply not true : the results are exactly the same. (of course Firmware is updated everywhere). In fact the claimed stop gains are the same : 5.5 both with and without Ibis. So...... is this simply another case of marketing hype, to trick customers into buying something ?

I found this lens OIS quite lousy . Very very far from the promised 4 stops. https://www.imaging-resource.com/lenses/fujinon/xf-18-55mm-f2.8-4-r-lm-ois/image-stabilization-test/ Without Ois you need 1/125th sec for a 50mm lens, right ? Ok, I agree. Then 1 stop gain means 1/60th .... 2 stop gain would mean 1/30th .... 3 stops 1/15th .... 4 stops 1/8th . Right ? Well ..... forget it ! All the promised Fuji stop gains are blatantly overstated ! Particularly with the XF18-55 lens the ois gain is quite limited in reality. You can count on 1stop (always) , 2stops (shooting with care), 3 stops (seldom) .

Extended ISO only works with "mechanical shutter"

I have been interested in macro since the Fuji X-line came out. I bought the (in)famous XF60, and although it's crazy sharp for portraits, I've never been satisfied with the close-up it produces. About 1 year ago I sold it. Over the years I also bought the MCEX-11 , the MCEX-16, and the Raynox 150 and 250. Now I get satisfactory results using my X-H1 and the XF50 and XF90 lenses. I can confirm : prime lenses are much more suited to be used both with extension tubes and Raynox lenses. With the XF90 I can reach the following magnifications (with good results) : Lens only Mcex-11 Mcex-16 raynox150 raynox250 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.7 1.0 the best combinations are with Mcex-16 and with raynox150, for the ease of focus and the Dof .

N.B : I switch off sharpening and noise reduction because I use Neatimage plug-in in Photoshop.

these pages are only for DNG converter : I don't see mentioned Camera Raw since 2012 (camera Raw 7.1) . The question is : can Camera raw be downloaded somewhere from Adobe web site ? Where exactly ?

Googling around I found Camera Raw 11 : http://getintopc.com/softwares/photoshop-plugins/adobe-camera-raw-11-free-download/ It supports X-T3 , and most of all ..... it seems to vastly improve Fuji Raw conversion and Noise Reduction. Try it out !

I have both the 55-200 and the 50-230 OIS II . Both produce stunning results , coupled with my X-Pro2 . After many tests side-by side , I decided to carry with me only the lighter 50-230. The much praised XF55-200 sits in the basement, for now. The fact is : simply I cannot see the difference in IQ ! Then I prefer to travel light. I don't see many cases where the extra f-stop given by the XF lens would make a difference, for me.

I settled down with Irident X-transformer with these settings: RAW process : more detailed sharpening:none Luminance noise reduction: Low Color noise reduction : medium Dng baseline : adobe default Apply all corrections to the image. (all checked) All the turn off lightroom checkboxes checked. as for sharpening and further noise reduction I use NeatImage ( a Photoshop add-on)