Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Good old ken rockwell - how much repetition can one man have on one website.

 

I believe when product's definition pages have the same structure it's simplify the search dramatically. If to look at pinned topic "Complete Overview over the available and upcoming Fuji X-Mount lenses" we can say that quincy is plain boring and repetitive.

 

And yes, I knew I'd rather not to mentioned Ken R. here...  :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Samyang 12mm is not bad for sunstars either.

 

The Samyang 12mm is an awesome lens which I'd recommend for a lot of things. Sun stars isn't one of them. The Samyang has an even number of 6 aperture blades which results in six pointed stars. The fujinon 14mm for example (and loads of other Fuji lenses) have an uneven number of 7 aperture blades which results in the double amount of star points, 14. Samyang 12mm:

 

1B0rAb30gSEzgTG.jpeg

Edited by Sluw
Link to post
Share on other sites

Been googling a bit and most fuji lenses have 7 rounded aperture blades and should all perform about the same for starbursts. Of course the focal length is totally different and some lenses have certain characteristics so you might prefer one over another.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If OP wants a starburst with more than 6 points than he needs a different lens than the 12mm. I am happy with it, obviously otherwise I wouldn’t have posted my picture above which, as far as starburst goes is pretty similar to yours.

 

It is possible to use lenses with 9 or more blades but generally those lenses try to achieve a round aperture which is not what you want to create starbursts. You can also do this with software or with filters.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If OP wants a starburst with more than 6 points than he needs a different lens than the 12mm. I am happy with it, obviously otherwise I wouldn’t have posted my picture above which, as far as starburst goes is pretty similar to yours.

 

It is possible to use lenses with 9 or more blades but generally those lenses try to achieve a round aperture which is not what you want to create starbursts. You can also do this with software or with filters.

I meant I used it as a bad example you as a good example. So there are no "best" starbursts. If you want 6 like the example you can buy the samyang 12mm if you want more choose another option. Personally I don't mind 6 points but I like a sharp clean starburst and not like the spread out points like the samyang. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

yes, no problem, I too am not greatly in love with this particular effect which I use very sparsely, but  it is possible to get a better star (I find yours better than mine :) ) with closing the aperture past f8 but the quality of the picture drops dramatically with the 12mm past f11.

 

So there are lenses with better performance, both in terms of coating and in number of blades making more corners, they tend to be the lenses made in the ’80 or ’90 when coating was very much developed and the cameras were predominately reflex (circular apertures such as Leica are very bad at doing this because they are ... too good... too circular.

 

I had a Tokina 17mm which I seem to remember gave very good results with this or perhaps the Pentax 15mm. I had both at some stage, long ago.

 

these are all examples which strike me for their nice star patterns.

 

McEnaney-starbursts-water.jpg

 

Nikon-24mm-f1.8G-Image-Sample-13-960x641.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

yes, no problem, I too am not greatly in love with this particular effect which I use very sparsely, but  it is possible to get a better star (I find yours better than mine :) ) with closing the aperture past f8 but the quality of the picture drops dramatically with the 12mm past f11.

 

So there are lenses with better performance, both in terms of coating and in number of blades making more corners, they tend to be the lenses made in the ’80 or ’90 when coating was very much developed and the cameras were predominately reflex (circular apertures such as Leica are very bad at doing this because they are ... too good... too circular.

 

I had a Tokina 17mm which I seem to remember gave very good results with this or perhaps the Pentax 15mm. I had both at some stage, long ago.

 

these are all examples which strike me for their nice star patterns.

 

McEnaney-starbursts-water.jpg

 

Nikon-24mm-f1.8G-Image-Sample-13-960x641.jpg

I definitely prefer those indeed.

Link to post
Share on other sites

50-140 is great too, even if shot through several layers of dirty windows.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Tested my 23f2 at f16

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have found that wide angle lenses seem to produce better star bursts than telephoto lenses.  But that's just been my experience with the lenses I've owned.

That being said, I usually go with a wide angle (something less than 24mm full frame equivalent) and stop the aperture down (very important) to approx F16.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

I prefer sunstars with lots of points that taper the further you get from the sun. Personally I think the 10-24's 14-point sunstars are ok but not great. They're still much better than the Samyang 12mm and its 6-point stars that flare out from the sun. The 10-24's sunstars don't taper toward the ends like the 16-55's either, but they're still smaller than the Samyang. The 16-55 has a 9-blade aperture, which gives you more points that taper toward the ends, the sunstars are perfect IMO. The first image is from Cambodia with the 10-24, which has 7 aperture blades. The second is from Egypt with the Sony 16-35/4, which also has a 7-bladed aperture, but produces nicer sunstars - presumably because of the shape.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by Trek of Joy
Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

18-55mm at f22 has forked rays.

 

 

 

35mm f2 at f16 may suffer from purple flare.

 

 

 

23mm f2 at f16 looks fine.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • In reply to the original question, it all depends on what you mean by infrared.  If you mean "see thermal information", then I agree with the comments here.  However, if you mean near-infrared, the X-T4, or basically any digital camera can be modified to "see" it.  Check out Lifepixel.com and Kolarivision.com for more info. As regards lenses, I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • No - I don’t think so - it means you can take pictures if you remove the lens completely - but I’m not sure that is a problem
    • I bought a manual lens over xmas and it took me a while to find the "shutter w/o lens" function in the menu settings.  So far I haven't found a way to either put that on the Q menu or marry that setting to one of the 4 custom modes.   Am I missing something? Is there a problem if I just leave that setting enabled even when the OEM auto lens is in place? tia
    • It appears that Apple now (at last!) fully supports FujiFilm Lossless and Compressed RAF files. In the latest updates of MacOS Tahoe 26.2, iOS 26 and iPadOS 26 compressed files are supported in Finder/Files and the Photos app. Good news for those of us with Macs and iPads.
×
×
  • Create New...