jerryy

Fujifilm may be able to tweak the very latest lens offerings a bit with firmware updates, but there is a hard physical limit to that. They would really need to release brand new, unknown, never seen before glass to go beyond the limits imposed by the current xf-mount lens limitations, maybe putting them into the gf-mount type of lenses. Towards the last part you are referring to, Canon still uses 300 dpi for their printers and Epson is at the 300/600 dpi point. Be careful to remember dpi and ppi are different things and nozzle jet-dots are different still. This linked article discusses more of that. I saw an interview on Luminous Landscape a very long time ago where Bruce Fraser was discussing this and made his comments with tongue firmly planted in cheek and twinkles in his eyes. https://www.digitalphotopro.com/technique/photography-workflow/the-right-resolution/ “Bruce used to say that the normal viewing distance for a photographer is limited only by the length of their nose.”

Welcome! Try the bags, accessories, etc. forum further on down the front page. There be lots ‘o suggestions helping you spend your monies. 😀

Take a look at the MTF or similar test, done by some of the independent labs, comparing your current lens(es) to the one(s) you are thinking about getting to replace them. If the charts are the same, the new sensor will get the same results ( resolution, ca, coma, etc. ), you will not be gaining. The advantage the new lens gives would be in areas such as auto focus speed. The forums are littered with tales from those that swapped their older lenses only to regret the decision. We do not know for certain (there are rumors they will) that the new sensors will be in the xf-mount line as well as the gf-mount line.

Not sure if this will help or not: Some equations: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3220119 Some lens data: http://www.photozone.de/fuji_x In the DPReview thread, G. Dan Mitchell implies that if the new sensor out performs the lens, that is a very good thing. Well, it is an old thread.

Last but not least.

Somewhere in the caravan ...

Off on a journey ...

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FujiFilm raw files have a small jpeg image stored in the raw data that is made using the current camera settings, including the chosen film simulation. A lot of raw image processors use this as a preview image for the raw file -- a sort of starting point. Your raw processor should allow you to make any changes to the file, many allow you to change the film simulation as well, so that you could have a black and white jpeg and use the raw file to make a color file.

Yup, it is very tricky to use focus bracketing for birds in flight photos 😀. But, fluorescent lighting can still cause flickering or banding, usually it is easier to use the mechanical shutter with indoor lighting. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/video/tips-and-solutions/flicker-free-lights-and-why-they-are-important-you

For some reason, this one is not showing.

Okay, technically just after sunset. but the last of the sunlight is still coloring the clouds moving in. The "star" in the lower mid section (just below the tree branch) is Jupiter.

You did not mention the room’s size or the distance the camera is away from your intended interest point. Those two parts can really, really determine which lens will work well for you. But just taking a wild guess, it could be that you are wanting a close up, sort of architectural style shot, … the XF 8-16mm lens could work, it gives really good results, with essentially no fish-eye effect throughout its range, but it is not low cost. If you have a local camera shop, or are okay with renting via the Internet, renting one might work well for your budget. There are 12mm lenses (Samyang / Rokinon gets rave reviews) that maybe wide enough for your project that are affordable. It is possible to use a 8mm fish-eye lens, also low cost, to also get wide angle shots, if you hold it exactly horizontal to the scene, the fish-eye effect is minimized and you can use de-fishing software to reduce the effect even further, but I do not recommend this approach as anything close to optimal.

Sony makes a similar 16-50mm power zoom.

By chance did you used to be an Olympus camera fan? They had some power zoom lenses. The XF 18-55mm does not have that ability, it is manual zoom all the way.

??? The "A" stands for auto -- as in the camera body controls the aperture setting. Some lenses have a switch with the "A" and another small symbol that stands for manual control using the aperture ring. Other lenses just have the "A" and then the f-stops on the ring but the "A" still stands for auto.

Just to double check, do you have the menu setting PC CONNECTION MODE set to USB CARD READER? I recall this one defaults to something else, so you have to set it.

August's full moon goes by a lot of names, including the Sturgeon Moon, the Green Corn Moon, the Raksha Bandhan Moon, Nikini Soya, and the end of the Esala Perahera festival. It is called the Sturgeon moon because during this time of the year, there is supposed to be lots of sturgeons out swimming around. Here is a link to some more information: https://solarsystem.nasa.gov/news/1390/august-2020-the-next-full-moon-is-the-sturgeon-moon/

After having some time to look into this, the lever does affect the movie setting: It will put the settings from the Advanced SR Auto mode into optimizing the movie based upon the scene. This is in Chapter Four, on page 48 in the user manual. The scenes are found on page 63.

Beautiful!