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jlmphotos

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Posts posted by jlmphotos

  1. The 35 1.4 was my first lens when I went into the Fuji system in 2012 or '13.  To this day I still say:  "you'll have to pry my 35 1.4 from my cold dead fingers".  I also owned the 56 1.2. I bought it for a particular shoot.  I had three back to back portrait sessions in a beautifully lit church.  Big windows down the sides, gorgeous skylights, just wonderful afternoon light streaming in.  The 56 1.2 REFUSED to lock focus on my subjects most of the time I was using it! Very frustrating and embarrassing.   I wound up putting it away and using my 18-55 and my 35 1.4 and successfully finished my  three back to back shoots.  That was on a Sunday.  On Monday I returned the 56 1.2, and eventually I wound up with the 60mm 2.4 macro to replace it.  Now, the 60 2.4 isn't the fastest but what I purchased it for, macro work, it was fine.  BTW  I was shooting the event with my X-T2 with what at the time was the latest firmware in case you were wondering.

    That's my background with my entry into the 56 1.2.  It's a beautiful lens but just not for me.

  2. If you keep your catalog in a hierarchical structure you can move, or even use simultaneously multiple programs.  Example:  I've been a LR user since BETA 1A back in 2007 I think.  If you think it sucks now, you should have been there in '07!! HA!   I also hav access to the SAME structure in C1Pro, AND Luminar!  They both ready my file structure and it just works  --- and I'm on a Mac BTW. I too for a very short time moved to Apple Aperture. I loved the loupe view feature most of all -- which capture one Pro has BTW.

    Something you may want to look at is Adobe Bridge. It's FREE.  When I first switched to digital back in 2002 that was one app I used.  Still free today.

    Now use LR to import, sort and catalog, but do any post-editing in Capture One Pro.  Since my family wants to see the family photos, I have Luminar installed on our three 27" iMacs, two laptops.  These all access 8TB external HD so they can get to any of the family images via APPLE photos app or Luminar.

     

     

     

  3. I own several lenses ( as you can see in my signature) and I LOOOOOVE my 27mm 2.8 "pancake".  It's sharp and fast enough for me.  I use that lens, and my 2014 Fuji XT1 as a daily carry to the office and around in the car and it's a very compact, and sweet setup when I don't want to schlep the XH1 or any of the GFX gear.

    The 27mm is a wonderful lens as long as you aren't planning on shooting fast moving action with it (which I don't) except for my four grandkids.

  4. I agree with many here this LR vs C1 has been beaten to death here.  Both are AMAZING.  I use both. I always import into LR. I then sort my images.  The raw files I want to truly work on I then drop in a folder (in LR). I then open c1 pro up and synch that same folder to bring in the raw files.  I work on them, then export them into a different folder called "Roundtrip from C1" 

    This folder with my finished JPEG's or TIFF's I have on my left side pane in LR that I also synch.  Waaaalaaaa My images are there for cataloging.  

    I just finished two shoots for a local manufacturer last week.  I used my Fuji X and my medium format gear.  Since I wanted to limit my post-processing due to the fact the company was on a budget, I made sure the images were as good as possible on the LCD on location.  I then used LR exclusively to save a little time in post.  This worked out great for these two jobs.  I have another job scheduled for just after the holidays photographing office employees going about their business so I may be using C1Pro as I really like their color correction for skin.  

    So making a short story very long:  It depends.  You can't go wrong with either one BUT I will say I find the C1Pro processing to generate much crisper, sharper, cleaner files than LR. But that's just me

  5. I may be a tad late to this party but if you ever shot film that was a "film simulation" whether you liked it or not.  I used to shoot Fuji Velvia, or Kodak Vericolor, or Ilford B&W etc, etc  

    With that said you can create a custom setting on the Fuji that will give you the FLATTEST look possible if that's what you are looking for.  There are certain settings if you want to capture the maximum dynamic range, etc.  I use this one as my C7 setting on my 50r and other Fuji's but the images in the LCD look like crap.  So plan on doing post-processing.  

    If you are that unhappy with the simulations maybe try Provia.  It's as plain vanilla as you can get I think

  6. Since upgrading to IOS 14.2 I've had issues using the stupid app.  Sometimes it connects, and sometimes it doesn't.  I'll keep plugging at it as sooner or later they'll fix it.  And, I am wondering if Nikon, Sony, Canon, etc have a similar app.  If they do, and they work, then shame on Fuji.  If they do not, then in my eyes, Fuji has a leg up on other manufacturers -- doesn't justify the problems we are experiencing but keep in mind this app is a "backburner - when we get time to get to it" kind of app.  To me, it's more of a gimmick than an actual tool.

     

  7. Regardless of the system used exposing to the right (ETTR) is (usually) always a good idea.  I see you mention JPEG's. I'm wondering you may be thinking that it would wise to push the exposure to the right?  If you are shooting JPEG then in my opinion you "could" but I personally would not push it to the right as far as I may pus a raw file.  If you are going to use jpegs out of the camera you need to nail it when you shoot so you may not have as much leeway as when shooting raw, or as I do, Jpeg fine + Raw together.

    I have found the Silkypix, the Fuji Raw processor, CaptureOne all do a phenomenal job handling the Fuji raw files.  Lightroom does as well except sometimes I do get some strange "worms" and artifacts in the images when processing my X files; not so much on my GFX medium format files ( as it has a regular Bayer sensor, not an X-trans sensor)

    Anyway welcome to the group and please feel free to ask whatever questions you have.  FYI: CaptureOne has free C1Pro Fuji Express you can download.  It may not have all the features of the paid version, but it will surely give you an excellent idea of its capabilities.  You can also download CaptureOne Pro (the full version) free for 30-days as well.

     

     

  8. One of my VERY best friends is a Leica Guy.  I know people say these Leica guys are stuck up, and hung up on gear but not my good friend.  He's a photographer.  Has taken, dropped, had repaired, shot, got wet, etc EVERY one of his six Leica bodies - including the Monochrome.  The Leica store in NYC LOVE him.  He walked in last year for a Leica branded polarizer, and walked with their only cop of of a think a 90mm lens that had just come out.  It was five figures deep that one~.  He also has several 80 megapixel + higher Hassy medium formats with some serious glass.   Last Christmas he bought for each of his three sons a new Leica body and a 50mm Summicron (?) lens!  Like I said - BIG BUCKS.  He just. bought the 60 megapixel S2 MF Leica as well a few months ago - And guess what? He actually ENVIES my fuji 50r and my APC cameras!  He truly loves them but I think he's afraid of switching at this point.  

    Long story short, I do believe that FUJI will be out with a medium format Monochrome by next summer or fall.  If they do, I and my friend will be first in line!

     

  9. On 9/19/2020 at 12:27 PM, teaandcake said:

    Hi, I have an X-T30 and have just got a few ND filters. I’ve yet to try them out but just wondering how to focus with them, particularly the 10 stop? 
    If I use auto focus or back button focus before adding the filter, as soon as I take my finger off the button has the camera unlocked the focus?

    Sorry for such a stupid question but it’s been confusing me and I haven’t found a clear answer on google. 

    You might want to set up back button autofocus.  There are tutorials online to get this setup.  Once you press the focus that's it.  You should not have to focus again unless you change the focal length/zoom in or out or accidentally move the camera.  Back Button Autofocus for Fuji.  I've been using that for my previous Nikons, and now all my Fuji cameras for ages.

     

  10. Own twelve bags now.  And that's down from the 14 I've sold.  My two favorite backpacks are the CHEAP Amazon basics camera backpack for under 20.00 US which I've used for seven years now. And my newest addition, much to the consternation of my much better half, is a Manfrotto BeFree camera backpack.  The BEST part of the Be Free is the camera compartment opens FROM THE REAR so when you put it down in the muds, or snow, or water, and then put it back on, your back stays clean.  So far, this bag is my all-time favorite.  It has compartments for my camera gear, drone, laptop up to 15", iPad, and the top portion has a smaller compartment where I keep my headlamp, hat, bug spray, drone remote and spare drone batteries. 

    After three months of use I have to say it's my favorite so far.

  11. First of all the upgrades are for the positive most times.  It's a Fuji thing.  Compared to other camera companies they are always updating and making their cameras better.

    Not sure about the XT4 freezing issues but I'm sure they've been addressed in firmware.  However I use the XT1, XT2, XH1, and the GFX system and I've NEVER had an issue.  

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