Jump to content

jlmphotos

Members
  • Posts

    821
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    48

Posts posted by jlmphotos

  1. Thank you for some common sense on this most wearisome of topics.

    AGREED +1000

    I use LR 5.7, I also use Iridient 3.x, Silkypix, and I've used Aperture, C1P.  All in all I like the LR 5.7 processing of Fuji raw files.  So do the stock agencies I sell through, as well as my enlargements made from Fuji files up to 24 x 18"  which is the largest I've made as of recent.  I do plan on going larger soon.

     

    Quite frankly, using the LR is so much simpler.  I've got a develop preset setup at import that does all the work for me.  Really simplifies my workflow.  All the raw files get the same exact treatment.  Does this mean I don't adjust the raw?  No by any means.  On some occasions I have to go back and modify my develop settings applied under certain circumstances but overall they just work.

  2. I was thinking about the 10-24, but for me, like the 50-140 2.8 it's just to large and heavy.  I decided to keep my Zeiss Touit 12mm 2.8.  Every now and then, due to the width of the Zeiss with the lens hood on I wish I had bought the 14mm Fuji instead --- but then I shoot with the Zeiss, and quickly quell those feelings as it's oh so darn crisp, sharp and clear.  I have no experience with the 18mm but I understand from various posts here and elsewhere it is not that sharp (?)  I use the 18-55 on a regular basis and I can certainly vouch for it.  It's amazing!

  3. This is the Lowerpro 302 AW Slingshot Backpack.  I use this for storage at home, and the bag that I use to transport equipment in the car.  Out of this bag, I load up my Thinktank Retrospective 20 (in Pinestone) 

     

    The Lowepro I've also used to hike.  Not with all this equipment, but pretty well loaded up.  It also has a side strap for my tripod and numerous pockets for accessories.  Just as an example here is what I keep in it and travel with:

     

    Nikon D800

    Nikon 50mm 1.8G

    Nikon 18-35 G

    Vivitar 100mm F2.8 Macro (not visible)

    Fuji X-T1 with grip

    Fuji 18-55 Lens

    Fuji 35mm F1.4

    Fuji 55-200

    Zeiss Touit 12mm 2.8 (not visible)

    Nikon SB700

    Nikon SB400

    Fuji EF-42

    Fuji Extension tubes

    Thinktank Pocket Rocket SD card wallet 12ea 16G & 32G cards

    Think tank battery holder for 4 Fuji batteries

    Think tank battery holder for 4 Nikon D800 Batteries

    Filter pouch loaded with all my Singh-Rays and ND filters

    Cleaning supplies

    Remote releases for both bodies

    And numerous smaller items

     

    I normally would already have my Think Tank Retro 20 pre-packed with what I "think" I"ll need, and the backpack stays in the car.

     

    post-330-0-09251200-1432075739_thumb.jpg

     

     

  4. Well I can't say I'm a huge fan of the XPRo series.  However, I did LOVE my X-E1, and I now LOVE my X-T1.  

     

    If Fuji released an X-T2 I'd be all over it as my primary body -- IF it had 24mp or more.  With that said, I am hoping and praying that Fuji does in fact release a X-T2 prior to September 18th of this year as I'm going on a 10 day stock shoot and would just love to have that camera along for the ride.

     

     

  5. @Xcalubur:

     

    I only have had experience with the 56 1.2 and I can't say it was good.  I was shooting two christenings in the same church back to back.  the church was very well lit with many windows along the sides, and beautiful skylights over the altar area.  Unfortunately the 56 1.2 hunted and hunted for focus.  I got so frustrated I swapped glass to the 35mm 1.4, and the 18-55.  Everything went well after that.  That was my experience, but many others across the inter webs report great results with the lens.  However, for me it just didn't work well and I wound up returning it for a refund.

  6. I've read a lot of web articles regarding the 18-135 not being as good, or tack sharp as the 18-55.  You may want to test it and if you don't like it return the item.  For me, it seems a tad large even though I really like the range.  In order to supplement my 18-55 I bought the 55-200 and I'm quite pleased with it. I had to choose between the 55-200 and the 50-140, but I did not want to carry all that extra weight around and drop almost 1,000 more.  For that, I'd have kept my Nikon 70-200 2.8.  

  7. Hey Guys and Gals,

     

    I have a minor problem -- actually it's not even a problem...

     

    Anyway, I inadvertently changed something somewhere in the menus.  Now, let's say I'm focusing on a subject, once I hold down the shutter release button for a second or so, the EVF view enlarges to like 100%.  I don't want that as it doesn't suit my purposes.

     

    How do I change it back to normal.  This was especially troublesome yesterday while shooting a small kids T-Ball game.  I would focus on the batter, and as I kept my finger on the shutter button pressed 1/2 way down, waiting for the swing, the eve zoomed in to like 100%.  It wasn't like that before so I know I pressed, or changed something.

     

    Any quick thoughts?  I just haven't had time to go through the manual, or Rico's book to change it back.

     

    Thank you all,

     

    Jorge

  8. With my DSLRs I've always ballparked how many shutter actuations they had based on the folder naming convention on the memory cards.  Every time the shutter turns 1000 the folder on the card would increase it's number by 1.  This works if you never change the folder naming convention.

     

    I don't know if Fuji's work the same way and I don't have the camera in front of me to check.  That said, unless you're doing a lot of high frame rate action shooting or timelapse, chances are that the shutter won't be the first thing to go on the camera.

    Fuji does work the same -- 9999 and new folder.  But as an added there is a way to see the actual shutter actuations if you have a Mac (not sure about a PC)  Shoot a NEF, open it in Apple PREVIEW, 

     

    Once the NEF (or canon CR2) is open in PREVIEW, go to Tools, Open Inspector.  when the Inspector opens, in the INFO box you'll see the shutter count and the actual actuations of the shutter.  Those will differ if you use LiveView because as soon as you enter LV, and even if you decide to not take a photo, the the camera records that event as an actuation.  So those numbers will not match - unless  you never use live view.

  9. Hey,  I use both my X-T1 with the 18-55, 35, Zeiss 12 and the 55-200 for landscapes, cityscapes, etc.  I love it.  I've printed up to 24 x 18" (so far) and the results are phenomenal and I AM A PIXEL PEEPER. LOL

     

    I also shoot with the Nikon D800, but "most" of the time I use the X-T1 -- even for stock images.  I then process them in LR 5.0, though I've used both Iridient Developer, and Silkypix.  But LR 5.x has really improved the process.

  10. This lens is FREAKIN' amazing!  I love it.  I own the 18-55, the Zeiss 12mm, the 55-200, and the 35mm.  IT is a super tack sharp lens with what I consider beautiful bokeh.  I've owned it since Feb 2013 and have used it on both my X-T1, and my old X-E1.

     

    And, at the current price it's bargain (IMHO)as I paid "much" more than that back in 2013.  

  11. I use LR 5.x and the color profiles in there for my raw processing.  I find they come "closest" to the jpeg.  Even if they are a bit off, I can either leave it or adjust it manually.  I do believe LR has made some serious gains in the X file details, sharpening, etc so that I don't use Iridient Developer, or Silkypix much anymore.  The tradeoff is a much more efficient workflow for me at least.  

  12. I don't think the X-T1 has been out long enough yet to compile data on that.  And, I have spoken with Fuji in person at the Edison, NJ service center ( just passing through the area and popped in) as they had worked on my S1 and S2Pro bodies years ago, and they tell me there is NO WAY, not even in their labs, to determine how many shutter actuations have been made on the X cameras.

  13. Ate you sure the spots are not on the lens. Spots on the sensor would probably show up at all apertures whereas spots on the lens generally only show when the lens is stopped down.

    Doubtful.  Sensor spots would show up when you stop down the aperture.  Normally, unless the sensor is pretty filthy they won't show up at wider apertures UNLESS you crank up the contrast in post.  At least that's been my experience.

  14. I've yet to do a wet clean on my X-T1 sensor.  Normally, just a Giotto rocket blower takes care of it.  However, if you changed lenses at the shore, it could be some fine mist/sea spray got in there as it's being blown about by the wind.  I'm assuming you used F22 to test the cleanliness?  Unless you regularly shoot at that aperture, and the spots are just a few that can be seen when closed down that much, I wouldn't worry about it.  Unless the place you had the sensor cleaned before would do you a solid and clean it again for free.

    Honestly I try NEVER to change lenses at the beach/sandy area.  No matter if there is no wind or not, there are still particles in the air.

×
×
  • Create New...