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RadBadTad

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Everything posted by RadBadTad

  1. RadBadTad
    I loaded his file to my lightroom as well, and it turned purple. I also opened the file in Photo Ninja and its purple there as well. >"I'm seriously contemplating purchasing Lightroom in order to best process my X-T2 raw images." Lightroom is really only the best at organization. When it comes to image quality, it's one of the worst (though you can really only tell with large prints and at 100% viewing) If you want "the best" out of your files, you need to be looking elsewhere. Capture One gets good colors, Iridient and Photo Ninja get great fine detail. Many people who are squeezing the very best out of their Fuji files have kludged together a multi-program workflow. For my high-detail black and white work, I start in Photo Ninja and get all the detail and dynamic range out of the file, then export to a TIFF and import into Lightroom for toning and contrast work, and then into Photoshop for really fine correction/dodge and burn.
  2. RadBadTad
    Thanks for doing the comparison. They all look pretty good really. Did you do much processing on them, or is it a straight out of camera output? The contrast is different on the different versions. What camera are these from? Also, could you compare the working speed of Capture One against Lightroom? I'm dealing with trying to correct the sluggishness that I get though Lightroom right now.
  3. RadBadTad
    "The underexposure is not random!" Fair enough, but I have taken 10 photos in a row in about four seconds in lighting that doesn't change even a little bit and only one or two photos in the middle of the burst will come out about two stops under-exposed. It very well may be the auto-DR feature, but it still seems pretty random to me. I managed to fix most of the issue with the purple with the white balance eye-dropper. The file is a little weird and I'm not sure what was truly white on the scene, but I got a pretty natural looking approximation by clicking around for a white surface. Going to "daylight balance" in the white balance definitely gives a purple cast though.
  4. RadBadTad
    That's good info, but unfortunately, not particularly useful to me. Switching to a macbook is out of the question for me for a few reasons, the simplest of which is cost. I'll keep hunting. Thanks for the tip though.
  5. RadBadTad
    I've never seen the purple thing happen to my X-T2 files, but I do sometimes get dramatic under-exposure randomly out of nowhere. I played with your sample file a bit and it seems like it's pretty easy to correct for the purple tint, but that doesn't change the fact that it shouldn't be there in the first place. Sorry I can't help you!
  6. RadBadTad
    "With Fuji I can extend the ISO to 6400 and still avoid this kind of noise." Then your Fuji is magic, because I absolutely can't with any of the 4 that I've used (Including the XPro2 and the X-T2) "There are people who have been telling me that m-4/3 sensors now deliver clean images at ISO 6400." They lied to you. The smaller your sensor and the higher your resolution, the more prevalent your noise will be at lower ISOs. Always.
  7. RadBadTad
    I've seen this suggestion on how to sharpen dozens of times, and most of it revolves around moving the Detail slider to 100, and for my photos, this never does any good at all. The waxing and worms show up just as dramatically in almost every photo I've tried it on, from four different XTrans cameras, starting with my X100s, all the way up through my X-T2. I've stopped trying this method. The only thing I've found that works when trying to get better fine detail is using a different program to create your base image (I use Photo Ninja) and then exporting a TIFF and working from there. Unfortunately, this loses you the ability to use the camera profiles that make Fuji so great, so there are unacceptable trade-offs for every workaround (in my opinion). I only use it when I'm doing B&W images, since the color isn't an issue in that case. Mostly I just accept the fact that I won't get good detail in my color photos, but I've found that the level of worminess that shows up depends a LOT on the lens I shot the photo on. For instance, my 24mm f/1.4 has a LOT of worms show up really quickly with sharpening, but I get it much less dramatically with my kit lens. I've got a personal theory (based on very little) that the issue actually comes from the automatic lens correction stuff going on, rather than the sharpening or demosaicing. Though I'd also be completely unsurprised to hear that I'm wrong.
  8. RadBadTad
    My powerful workstation laptop (Lenovo Thinkpad W540) with an i7 processor and 32 gigs of RAM on W10 struggles HARD with my RAF files from my X-T2. Every adjustment lags, and even scrolling down my photos in the Library module is choppy. Hard quick adjustments like spot healing skin or masking adjustments takes multiple seconds per click to see my adjustment show up on the preview, no matter what I do. I've got a 40GB cache, I've turned GPU processing on, and back off, to see if it makes a difference (it doesn't) and nothing I've done seems to make any difference. My drive has 40% free space, I only have about 6000 photos in my catalog, and I back-up and Optimize regularly. In hunting for solutions, I found someone suggesting that I could import all of my photos to a fast external drive, render Smart Previews, then disconnect the drive, and work exclusively with the smart previews, which are supposedly smaller, lighter, and faster to work with, and then when I'm done, re-connect the drive, apply the changes, and export/work in Photoshop from there. Wondering if anyone has any better tips for speeding up Lightroom when working with RAF files, or if anyone has tried the Smart Preview method described above to tell me whether it provides any advantages?
  9. RadBadTad
    This may be a bit condescending, and if so, I'm sorry, but did you also turn the ISO dial to A? Once I set the menu setting, and set the ISO dial to A, I press in the front control wheel and a little menu pops up in my viewfinder that lets me select Shutter Speed, EV Comp, and now ISO (on the far right) Also, is this one of the updates that's X-T2 only, and do you have an X-T2?
  10. RadBadTad
    I love the new firmware! The rotating autofocus point is perfect, and if that was the only upgrade in this whole firmware, I would still be happy! Question about the command dial ISO control - Is it possible to put the ISO on the rear command dial? I changed the setting in menu to control ISO with the command dial, but it seems to have assigned it to the front dial with my shutter speed, so I have to press in the dial to change which parameter I'm adjusting, while the rear dial does nothing. I assume I'm missing a setting somewhere?
  11. RadBadTad
    As always with Fuji files, your raw photo results are going to depend greatly on what program you're using to edit/view them. Some programs may show a lot more noise than others, and some might handle noise reduction a lot better than others as well. But at the end of the day, you're using a sub-$2000 crop sensor camera. There's going to be noise in the raw files, but you'll be perfectly able to remove it with noise reduction.
  12. RadBadTad
    I just use my shirt wrapped over my finger. I've never had an issue before.
  13. RadBadTad
    How is the speed on the tether and image rendering? If it's as slow as everything else with RAF files, then it's not going to do much good.
  14. RadBadTad
    Camera rotation specific focus points that remember your last point in that orientation Raw highlight warning blinkies in live view (would settle for playback) Customizable Q button (I don't use the quick menu, and it's a perfect spot for AF-On) Something that speeds up lightroom performance with RAF files (I realize this is an Adobe issue, not a firmware issue, but hey, it's a wish list) Faster AF (Even on the X-T2, the AF never really feels "snappy" like it used to on my Canon. The Canon missed more often, but it was always so confident about it. The X-T2 is more accurate, but much more plodding that makes me feel less confident in it) Fix random under-exposure issues when there are white things in the scene. I've found that if I have something white in my shot (like a white shirt on a model) I'll sometimes get as much as 2 stops under-exposed when using a priority mode. I think it's trying to preserve highlights?
  15. RadBadTad
    Why would it not? With APS-C, you lose low light capabilities (not relevant in a studio with controlled lighting) and narrow depth of field (not relevant when you have complete control over a background and no need for blur) The only issue might be fine detail, but the 24mp sensor on the X-T2 and XPro2 is worlds ahead of completely acceptable studio cameras from 5 years ago. Maybe flash control? But with Pocket Wizards, you're doing the flash controlling from the controller, not in camera.
  16. RadBadTad
    >Studio photographers will like it but how many studio photographers use Fuji cameras. Devil's advocate: Not many people are using Fuji cameras in a studio setting because they don't have basic studio features like nuanced flash control capabilities, or wired tethered shooting. I use my X-T2 in a studio setting more often than anything else, and would love to see better studio-integration.
  17. RadBadTad
    Unfortunately, I needed the prime for the fast aperture. I was shooting some B-Roll for a musician in a very dim recording studio and had minimal lighting capabilities. I tried the 18-55, but there wasn't enough light for it. Still though, it's a good tip going forward. I'll try to find ways to use the kit lens over the louder primes next time.
  18. RadBadTad
    The LM is a good tip. Thanks. I've been doing some reading and apparently the 23mm is one of the worst, along with the 35mm f/1.4. I doubt I'll be bothered. I'm not making films, I'm just taking videos. Still though, it's a bit annoying.
  19. RadBadTad
    I'm really surprised by the fact that I don't hear about it more, and it didn't get mentioned more often in the reviews. For a while I thought that maybe I was anatomically different than most people so maybe it was worse for me, but I think the reality is that for a lot of people's style, the edges of the frame don't matter as much. When you're capturing the moment happening in the middle of the frame, who cares about the edges? It's fine for street or travel much of the time. I do portraiture and landscape work so the edges of the frame and the overall composition matter a lot to me. I was very surprised that it wasn't improved on the XPro2 as well, though.
  20. RadBadTad
    The bad eye-relief on the XPro2 is the main reason I switched to the X-T2. It was so uncomfortable to me to shoot and to try to pay attention to the edges of my frame. I was making composition mistakes left and right because I couldn't see the whole scene at once. I'm really sad about it too, because other than that, I love the XPro2 a lot more.
  21. RadBadTad
    I did some video shooting for the first time with my X-T2, and the 4K files are really good looking, but unfortunately, the motor for focus on my lens (23mm f/1.4) is so loud that I can hear every little step and jitter it makes over the audio of the scene, even as I'm manually focusing. Does anyone have any thoughts besides "go buy all different lenses for video work" or "Don't focus while shooting"?
  22. RadBadTad
    I mean more like putting the AF mode into single point and losing most of your focus point options. Or putting on the battery grip and losing the ability to put the camera into boost/normal mode in the menu. The flash not firing because the camera is in electronic shutter mode. Etc.
  23. RadBadTad
    Thanks for posting the answer. One of my main frustrations with Fuji is that settings affect each other seemingly at random with no warning or explanation.
  24. RadBadTad
    I actually just tweeted at FujiUS for the ability to re-assign the Q button to AF-On. That button falls perfectly under my thumb and I will literally never ever use it. The AE-L button is what I have resorted to, but it's too much of a reach to be comfortable. The AF-L button is cramped to get to for me.
  25. RadBadTad
    I would say the best film sim would be to start with a Provia base and then bring down your highlights, bring up your shadows, bring down your color intensity and sharpening to end up close to flat. Also, yes, you can power the camera with the adapter when the grip is attached to the camera.
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