azmmount

I have the GCS Larmor one as well. Be aware, that since it is glass, it can be broken by applying pressure to it. Mine suddenly had a small section smashed I believe by the buckle on my camera strap getting pressed into it. I initially thought I had damaged the screen but it was just the protector. Mike

It's okay. My legs is slow to focus too Are any of the pics in the 60mm album taken in combination with the Raynox? Thanks, Mike

I assume that is centimeters and not inches As such, being 'merican, I will have to do some research to relate to that image If I remember my school days properly this picture is something around 1 3/4 inches? I seem to have an automatic bias against any macro that isn't 1:1 (my brain tells me 1:2 isn't really a macro). But, thinking past my gut reaction, I realize that when I use a macro I rarely am at minimum focus distance - so it is entirely possible that I don't shoot even 1:2 most of the time. However, I don't really know. I'm just wondering if, having never shot a 1:2 macro, I would find myself occasionally cursing because I didn't feel like I could get close enough to get the image I wanted. (I do not intend to photograph pin heads btw - probably just the occasional bug or flora).

I am considering this lens. As I've converted over to Fuji I have found the macro to be one lens that I miss quite often. I had immediately snubbed this one because it did not offer 1:1 magnification. Instead I grabbed extension tubes (which also do not get me 1:1) but have found them to be difficult to use effectively (requires more planning and patience than I have). I have never owned a macro that didn't offer at least 1:1 magnification. So, I am wondering if anyone that has it can comment on whether they find the lack of 1:1 to be limiting. Thanks, Mike

That makes sense. Out of curiosity what focal length/aperture did you choose to shoot? From your tighter images I'd guess long and wide open. Also did you shoot handheld or on a tripod? If on a tripod, did you use a pano head to help with your "organized pattern"?

I'm not getting what it is about the X-T1 that makes this any easier than any other camera? It looks interesting though. I like the result and assume the main benefit is increased resolution of the final image?

Just got this one from Ebay - only $9.99 and seems to work. I like the wireless ones but usually am standing right beside the camera when I trip the shutter anyway. I figured if I need distance I'll just use the remote app. Mike

A storm rolls in at sunset (X-T1 / 18-135) Mike

Milandro, I did not have any issue with the original coming off either. It looks like those "nubs" that macro show don't actually hold the eyecup on anyway. Those two side hooks keep it on. The nubs look like they would help keep it from twisting and being forced off that way. I put a Hoodman like the one you pictured on a Canon and disliked it. It added a lot of bulk and didn't seem to help me see that much. Funny, because I remember liking them back in film days. Mike

Macro, Thanks for the image. Is that the genuine FujiFilm eyecup? The JJC knockoff I have looks *exactly* like that one. Same screws, same indentation areas, exactly the same everything. If that is the Fuji then I'm going to have to find a real Fuji one to physically compare them but I'm guessing I probably won't be able to tell them apart so might as well keep the JJC (it was $7 BTW). I had taken it off the camera and monkeyed with the rubber hooks that were coming loose and causing the bulging. It hasn't done it since. Mike

Scotch tape - that's clever - I'll have to try that. I assume you haven't seen the rubber/holder separation on yours? Thanks, Mike

Anyone have the fuji long eyecup? How is it? I cheaped out and bought a $3ish Chinese knockoff version from ebay and am finding the top of the eyecup rubber keeps coming apart from the plastic retaining ring and bulging. It doesn't hurt anything but it does offend my delicate sense of visual perfection. Consequently I am spending more of my photo time wiggling it around to get it seated again than I would like. It is also pretty sticky rubber so gets dust and stuff stuck on it so I'm constantly trying to clean it. If the Fuji one does the same things I'll just keep the one I have. Thanks, Mike

Yes, Romi, I think that is kind of what I picture. It is that as soon as I put my forefinger on the dial it wins my brain for direction. Then confuses me because my eyes are seeing the indicator move the wrong way in the viewfinder. I guess it's like backing up a trailer. I need to put my hands on the bottom of the wheel so I know when I turn the bottom of the wheel left the trailer is going to go left - if my hands are on the top of the wheel I get confused more easily. Marcelo, yes the visual feedback on the image has queued me in to going the wrong way numerous times - though only if I'm doing a large amount of EC. I'm just trying to figure out a way to picture what I'm doing where I'll feel more confident in applying EC spur of the moment and less like I might miss a shot of I try. Often I find myself knowing I am going to get a bad exposure but not wanting to possibly miss "the shot" because I've accidentally made it worse by going the wrong way. Thanks, Mike

Good to know - I don't think that was the issue here but I will keep it in mind for future inconsistencies. I have occasionally bumped both the drive dial and metering dials out of position. In fact I seem to recall getting the drive dial partway between settings and having the camera not take images as well. Mike

Probably happened with both original and after market (Watson) battery. No heat issues that I noticed.

For some reason I have a hard time spinning EC with my thumb if my eye is to the viewfinder. If I can change that then this is a good trick.

Anyone else have issues with you X-T1 becoming unresponsive while using zone focus? I was shooting some horse events this weekend (AF-C, 3x3 zone center, MS, FD off, either single shot or Ch) and on several occasions the camera quit trying to focus or take an image (I have focus priority set so not taking the shot wasn't surprising since it wasn't focussing). I was also unable to manually focus. Usually turning the camera off then back on would get it going again but once I had to physically remove the battery. Mike

Hi, Probably a stupid question but does anyone have a trick to remember which direction to spin the EC dial? I find myself looking at the gauge in the viewfinder and trying to spin right to increase exposure (spinning right actually decreases it). So I have to either picture the numbers on the top of the dial and spin toward a number (ignoring the vf gauge) or just condition myself to spin the opposite direction that I would intuitively spin. I remember when I switched to Nikon from Canon a while back being irritated that the Nikon viewfinder gauge was backwards (+ to the left and - to the right) until I discovered that "zeroing the meter" meant spinning the wheels in the direction I wanted the gauge to go. Then I came up with thinking "brighter to darker" rather than "+EC to -EC" and everything fell into place. Thanks, Mike

I would take the Fuji and all three lenses. If I had to leave one behind, it would be the 55-200. If I could only take one it would be the 10-24. That said, I haven't been to any of those places but I would suspect I would want to shoot wide over tight. Mike

To me, with that lineup of primes, I would not consider either the 18-55 or 16-55 lenses. They seem redundant and personally If I was shooting in that range I would rather have the prime on. That leaves the question of which do you more frequently shoot: wide or long? I was not aware that the X-T1 was available kitted with the 10-24. But I might be inclined to look at the discounts for each and pick the kit that had the best discount. That is because, personally, I'd like both those lenses eventually I tried to decide between silver and black and, for me, I was just unwilling to pay extra for something that was purely cosmetic so chose black. If they were the same price I probably would have gone silver because I think it looks nicer. Mike

The connectors are taking some getting used to but I really like the strap so far. I still need to get out on an all day hike or something to know for sure. I want to get a cuff too but really want to pay less for one than they are

Ah. I had initially found the one for the XT10 but it didn't match your model number. The only Canadian store I've used is Henry's and it doesn't look like they have any. Mike

I like the false color version in landscapes a lot more.

B&H says they have them in stock - I'm pretty sure they ship to Canada. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1053118-REG/fujifilm_16431847_mhg_xt_large_metal_hand.html/prm/alsVwDtl But, it looks like they will not ship until Monday now. Mike

Yes. For example, with a 16mm tube on the 56mm the distance you can focus in is like 8-10 inches (that's a total guesstimate). If the front of the lens is more than 10" from the subject you can't focus anymore. Here are two pictures with the camera set up at the min and max focus distances. Also, I bought the generic tube set (Fotasy is the brand) instead of the Fuji branded ones. While I would imagine the Fuji's are better built the off brand was under $30 for both an 11mm and 16mm tube. Since they're really just a spacer I couldn't justify the extra $170 for the two Fuji's. It has been a long time since I have used it but I don't remember it being too complicated. I would go with a couple of adapters: A Canon EF to Fuji X - I have gleaned from this forum (I forget who mentioned it) that the Canon EF mount has one of the shortest distances to the sensor of any system. This means almost any lens can be adapted to it. I would buy this one and then buy the small adapters to Canon EF for each lens you wanted to adapt. A Canon FD to EF - to adapt you Canon 50 A Nikon to EF - obviously for the Nikon If you just buy the normal adapters then there is nothing stuck between the lens and the sensor so no image degradation or light loss. The point of the adapter is partly to get the lens far enough from the Fuji sensor that you can focus with it. Mike