azmmount

By the light of the Kindle... X-T1 with XF56 Bridge > Photoshop > Perfect Effects Mike

Zeiss makes a 50mm macro for Fuji that is 1:1. Rokinon/Samyang make a 100mm f/2.8 as well (probably not made for the APS-C). I have used extension tubes a little (mostly with the 56) and it works fine but is a bit of a hassle since the focus range only covers a small area (sometimes less than an inch it seems). HDR can be done with any camera. Just bracket some exposures and merge then in Photoshop or some third party HDR software like Photomatix. MIke

I bought the 14 and am considering selling it. It's a great, light, and sharp little lens but I really like shooting super wide and it isn't that (to me anyway). I want to go with the 10-24 to get those extra mm on the wide end. I considered the Samyang 8/10/12 but was put off by the reviews that said it had poor flare handling. I've owned wides with poor flare handling and it rendered them almost useless for my style of shooting (it seems there was always some bright light at or near the corners). So, if anyone wants to trade a like new 14 for a like new 10-24 hit me up Mike

One of my favorite lenses back in my film days - except mine was an S.S.C. Was this at f/1.4?

Probably not. Lenses designed to work on a mirrored camera need to sit further from the sensor than those designed to work with mirrorless. So the adapters move the lens out to where it needs to be to focus properly on the sensor. Mike

I had been eyeballing the helios but don't really want another 50-something pre-crop millimeter lens, so would want to get one of those focal length reducers and that takes it into the multi-hundred $ territory. Someday Thanks, Mike

Lol, me neither. If I could have only one lens for the Fuji, that would be it. PS, I still want the 23 though. And the 16. And the 35. And the 90... Mike

Welcome, Rob. I too am new to Fuji with an X-T1 purchased a few months ago. Nobody has mentioned it yet but batteries. Get a couple spares. I also ended up getting the vertical grip. Just to have that extra battery. The X-T1 is the first digital I have owned in a long time that just seemed to die on me - for some reason the time between me noticing the battery gauge is red to the camera no longer functioning is seconds. I have not found a bag I'm crazy about yet - most of the smaller bags don't like to play with the vertical grip. I'm using a small Tamrac backpack. It's nice to carry but didn't come with enough dividers so the gear shifts around in it (which I don't really like). These LensCoat Battery Pouches are great. The Fuji battery fits loosely in them so it is easy to get in and out. Plus, as a bonus the little flash that comes with the X-T1 fits snugly too! Mike

I have RAW files going back to 2001. Not only have the tools to process them improved but also the dullard behind my keyboard has gotten better at using the tools. To me, throwing away the RAW and keeping the JPG/TIFF/whatever is like throwing away the negative and keeping the print. But, still, I do not very often go back and reedit an image so maybe I'm just a RAW File Hoarder... Mike

I was going to call you a liar but it turns out you appear to be correct When I look at the front of the camera I see the aperture opening and closing as the light gets brighter and it stops down to the selected aperture when I half press. The opening and closing must have something to do with the live view and probably contributes to the low battery life on these. I think it could still keep the aperture closed for a selected time period after half press release though. Mike

That makes sense. Though I think I would still prefer the camera making a decision - is the first shot MS? Yes? Then refocus and lock to MS only. No? Don't refocus. But, I don't do a lot of continuous focus work so I'm not the target audience I think a warning message (kind of) makes sense as long as it does not interfere with shooting. I suspect after seeing it a few times it will start to annoy me enough that I have to change to MS every time I'm shooting continuous As a software developer I can say that many users will completely ignore the written documentation and many will also ignore the on screen warning. There is no real win. Thanks for the info, Mike

I believe that Patrick has said FW4 won't refocus between shots in continuos mode unless you're set to MS. I think heliosfan is saying that if you're in MS+ES and using the mechanical shutter, then it still should refocus. Is the refocus between shots working in MS+ES for FW3?

I also shoot almost exclusively in Aperture Priority with my X-T1 and mine only shows with half press like others have said. Is there some setting you found to allow this?

I agree, just like every other digital camera I have ever used. Generally the time to continue metering could be set under the menu. The other thing that I still can't get used to is the manual focus. I think I have to have the shutter half pressed to manually focus as well. It is constantly confusing me as I spin that ring and can't figure out why nothing seems to be happening. Mike

I don't think anyone knows.

From looking at your Flickr page I do not think you overuse selective focus. In fact, I'm not even sure there is such a thing as long your photograph successfully communicates - and most of yours that I looked at do. I really like the no focus bee shots and some of the no focus flowers/weeds on the Flickr. The two above aren't my thing though I'm not sure what the difference is other than the "more pleasing to me" bokeh look of the others. Anyway, you make me want to go buy some of these old odd bokeh manual lenses to try this myself - of course, I might be able to buy the glass but I'm not sure I can find the vision Mike

To me, Sound & Flash: Enabled/Disabled would make more sense than on/off.

I like your style of shooting and processing quite a bit Mr. f/otographer. Thank you for sharing. Mike

The quickest way to make money at photography is to sell your camera - Anonymous

Ah, I see, you mean if I select a different aspect ratio - which I can only do if I am shooting jpeg anyway. But, I also see that by checking focus you meant on camera. I did not realize that I could zoom in closer on the image during playback when I shot jpg. I can see benefit in that for sure. I suppose I could shoot both and only import the RAWs off the card... I will have to think if there is a real benefit to that for me. There might also be a benefit in shooting jpgs if I am transferring then to the iPad for quick edits. Though I'm not sure if iOS will let me choose which ext gets copied over. Thanks, Mike

I, for some reason, hate having to import photos into Lightroom. This is the main reason I still don't use it - though I am considering giving it another shot so I can hopefully organize the past 14 years of digital files I have on my backup drive. Turns out that remembering what day I did something isn't working after a few years - even remembering the year is complicated Mike

Not sure what you mean here - can you clarify please? If I want to quickly browse I usually use the browser from OnOne softwares Perfect Photo Suite. It seems blinding fast even with RAW. I'm sure JOGs are faster if not only because they are so much smaller. Normally, I use Adobe Bridge though, and for some reason, many versions ago, I lost the ability to preview the full size images with the loupe in the browser and have to open an individual image in the converter to check focus Super aggravating. This is something I need to learn to do better. I need to start throwing out the trash or at least organizing better so I don't have to look at the trash every time I look at the shoot. Thanks, Mike

Bleh. Fired off a few "rolls" with Fine+RAW. Realized that I still have to pull the JPG through PS to resize and I am doing all the same things to the JPG that I would do with the RAW file. I can't see an actual advantage for me to save a JPG at all (it just means twice as many images to import) so I'm back to just RAW. I try to be a smart user but fail, lol.

Happy fathers day y'all. I'm celebrating with a "daddy drink" (or two or more) and some time with the camera, How about you? Mike

Probably across Windows based devices. Programming cross-platform is a huge effort as I have yet to see a tool that can really help with it. To get a top notch application on each platform you really have to use a native language. It looks like Iridient is a one man show.