darknj

Fully agreeing with you here, but still, when a colleague kindly ask if he can try out your new toy, it's not really nice to refuse it if you don't have anything scheduled. I have had my X-T1 for almost 7 months now and it's starting to real really good, the learning curve was rather steep for me at the begining but with the latest update and T mode, things are a lot smoother now. I know that another colleague is looking forward to get his own X-T1 for Metal concerts shooting.

I hesitated for a long time between the 18mm and the 27mm and finaly decided to grab the 27mm for the super small form, a black body X-T1 ppl hardly notice that I am holding a real camera and ppl often confuse it with a regular point and shoot. Plus side, it's quite a lot lighter and small, easy on your hand and less space needed in your bag if you go walking around for hours. If you are afraid to drop it, a wrist wrap is sufficient enough. The deciding point for me was the 18mm being losing in sharpness against the 18-55mm zoom kit wide open, I could be tempted to buy the second iteration of the 18mm but the current version just doesn't work for me. my setup for the street is the 27mm strapped on the X-T1 and the 35mm as backup when light is become a scarce resource.

I haven't noticed anything of that sort and I remember that we have some ppl shooting with heavy contrast scene and we didn't see any of them have such heavy CA. Just so I get this straight, these are straight jpeg out of the body, right? There was no processing in lightroom or anything like that?

From a post I recall on DPReview, it seems that the Yongnuo 2.5mm to 2.5mm Canon compatible cable is working with our X-T1. Do take that with some grain of salt as memory could be failing me on the finer details.

You are correct, the macro icon is gone, it's now just part of the lense minimum focus distance. The biggest drawback is that you need to kind of remember how close you can focus with your lenses now, the 56mm could be the real annoying one with it's 70 cm distance.

Please pardon me the question but, why not just clean the filter ? If it's just a dust spot, it can be cleaned easily. Following this, I wonder what would you do if you have the same dust spot on your lens, are you going to buy a new one ? If I am offending you in anyway, please do let me apologies, I am just trying to understand the logic behind "Not using a filter that has a dust spot" while the same dust spot can appear on your lens.

Nowadays, it's hardly needed to have any filter on a lens for the different featured coatings but I still consider them a small form of lens insurance for most frontal shock. And let's face it, at one point you will either have your lens fall onto the front part or bump it into something else. For a colleague of mine who shoots concerts, he seems to attracts guitar's head right into his nikkor 24-70mm F2.8, a couple of filters got broken already over the years but that's like twice 75$ instead of the 1.5k $ for the lens. Even if YOU are careful, you still can not control the environment around you and for that, I find the small loss in IQ negligible for the price of those lenses.

I worked around the issue by getting 2 extra batteries from third party (patona) along their traveler friendly charger. As for the battery life, it is kind of hard to give concrete numbers as numerous factors need to be taken into accounts. For my case on the third party battery with only evf sensor and around 20% chipping, I get around 350 shots before I start seeing the red battery icon. Enhanced mode on and OIS enabled too.

The option menu is changed indeed, and it kinda make more sense now since the AF+MF setting is more a shutter option than an Auto Focus one. Just a different option placement, not really affecting me since I have the option to change it in the Quick menu. As for the IS on the 18-135mm, I haven't noticed anything weird about it. Behaves still like before and I had a 25 min, walk back from train station to home yesterday with my camera in hand snapping at random things and I really didn't noticed any deeper impact on the battery.

I just love being proven wrong when it's about the X-T1, the feedback from you guys just show me how much more I can still improve with it

Good news for you. Not anymore ! I just tried it out and it was working on AF-S

While I heartily agree with you, I am not certain that learning a new camera while on a paid job is such a good idea in general. But it is true that once you know your tool, you can work around its shortcoming and the X-T1 is really a nice tool once you know it well enough.

I love the X-T1 but I am not certain that it is the right tool for weddings, specially if it is a paid job. A colleague borrowed mine for a wedding shoot and even after tons of information given, before the cake cutting part they all told me that went back to the car and get the DSLR out of frustration. The issue is two fold, while the camera didn't had the 4.0 update yet, the 3.11 was already present but the AF speed was just a tad bit too slow, also the X-T1 takes quite a lot of time to get used to when you are used to Canikon DSLRs, the front and back dials don't react the same way, that dreafull ISO dial that is super annoying to operate under stress (Why does it have to be press AND turn!!!) and second point, native ISO caps at 6400, anything higher is Jpeg... Whooo.... Mind you, it's a beautiful Jpeg, but still... Jpeg... They all returned the camera to me after some hours of shooting usually. Now things could be a bit better with the T mode on the speed dial allowing full speed control from 30 secs to 1/4000 along the much welcomed AF update but really, that camera is great if you have some time to frame the picture with some lights and not fast moving subjects (the dancing part might be the worst moment with that camera) and you can certainly earn a living with it, I just don't believe that weddings is a scene for it.

Humm... Weird behavior, in all honesty I couldn't say what could be causing it since I haven't toyed with with the wide tracking in AF-C yet. Quick question tho, are you using only MS or a mix of MS + ES ? I recall reading something about the AF-C wide zone tracking not playing nicely with any shutter mode beside MS.

Depends on what you are expecting out of that filter, is it to just protect your lens from damages or are you looking for those fancy nano coating ? If it's just for protection, B+W is really good for their basic filter, not because it will protect your lens against all shock but because it's super clear, you can hardly see any differences with and without (3:1 pixel peeping to see anything actually). If it's for the fancy nano coating and other features, well I am a bit out of suggestion for you, one of my colleagues swears by the high end B+W filters for his nikkor 24-70mm F2.8 and 70-200mm F2.8 but since I got mine just to protect the lens, I just want them as clear as possible. Hoya is also a name I hear being mentioned often when lens filters are being brought up.

I have access to both a D3S with mostly primes lenses (35mm F1.8 and 50mm F1.8 among others) and a D800 with 24-70mm F2.8 and while the X-T1 with new upgrade is certainly good, it still can't compete against those 2 old monsters DSLR, specially the D800 with 24-70mm, that body lens combo is just insanly fast, you hardly need to do any half press for the focus to lock on. Now, the closest competitor I have in house is my lil' Nikon1 AW1 with almost all lenses aside the 10-100mm and 70-300mm. In good light condition, the AW1 is really close of the D3S in term of focusing speed, we have to leave it to Nikon, they are awesomely good on the AF for their bodies. So how does it match up ? Well, my AW1 with the 18.5mm F1.8 (50mm eq.) against my 35mm F1.4 on X-T1, the AW1 wins up with a good margin in good light condition, the update did good on the body but the lens could really use some update(s ?), but as soon as we start hitting the low light and the ISO shoots up, the X-T1 is catching up really good, around 3200 ISO the AW1 pretty much lost the battle, it can still grab a lock but with a bit more hunting and IQ goes down the drain. In overall, the 35mm F1.4 is a really pretty lens, but it does shows its age, I could be tempted by the 35mm F2 WR that is going to be released end of this year but I love the bokeh and "spirit" of this 35mm too much to just replace it because it's not as fast other 50mm equivalent. While I do not own a Sony A6000, I guess that depending on the lens, the X-T1 could be up to par with it, give or take 10-15% for error margin. Don't use the AF-C on static subjects, the AF-C is expecting to have a moving subject, if everything is static, it tries to compensate for something that doesn't move.

Did you check if the Pre-Focus option is enabled ?

I haven't noticed any changes so far, used a Patona battery (which holds out for about 350ish shots with some chimping, 35% of the shots, with enhanced mode on). So far I got around 200 shots in and I just got a glimpse on the red battery icon but count at least 60% chimping, so my guess is it doesn't seems to be affefcting much, if it does, it's not really noticeable. Quick thing tho, I didn't do much zone tracking, just focused on doing comparative tests between the AF-S 3x3 and 5x3. Another update on the 35mm, like everybody else, very suprised by the sudden performance increase, a lot less hunting, a lot more accuracy with the 3x3 zone but just like the 18-135mm, don't try to focus on small subjects, it's going to be relatively nasty. Something that took me by surprise tho, I was trying to get a shot of an itty bitty spider, around 3-4 mm at 135mm whithin macro zone on manual focus and I wasn't able to lock onto it manually at all, out of curiosity pressed the AF lock and bam, the spider came in right into focus. I really wasn't expecting it to grab the focus on something so small that it was being blurred out by the foreground bokeh.

I do not think that's something that can be changed, since the lense are focusing by wire, you have nothing that moves the glass mechanically, thus when you turn the camera off, it resets back to its default position, which might not be where you left it.

Testing it out with the 18-135mm lens at the moment and so far, it's quite good! There is a lot less hunting with the 3x3 zone, the 5x3 is a tad bit less sharp due to all the focus points but it's also a bit faster to grab a focus point. A couple of things tho, while the zone focus is defenitly faster, it's also less precise, don't use it if you need to focus on something small or thin, chances are it's going to focus on the background. So I would swap between the zone and the point focus depending on target. From the low light test I was able to do, it is more sensitive, it has a better focus in low light, again a lot less hunting with the 18-135mm but I will need to do more testings to see how good it actually is. The wide zone focus is a bit more trickier to use for me at the moment, I need more praticing to understand how it works but I could certainly see the benefits on my son when he starts running all around. The T mode on the speed dial might become my default setting, it's really enjoyable to be able to change the shutter speed with the front dial, really good when you need to change the speed while still keeping your eye in the EVF.

I got my gear with the same consideration with some street photography extra: X-T1 with 18-135: Way too pratical to passup this combo and the weather sealing allowed me to take it out on a trip to Taiwan, it wasn't during the typhoon season but still went up hicking in the montain and I sure was happy to have the weather sealing on body and lens. I added the the 35mm F1.4 for low light situations and because I love the "nifty fifty" and tossed in the 27mm F2.8 for streets. With that setup, I was able to take close of everything I wanted. Just missed the 10mm to 24mm wide angle zoom in the bag to cover really everything I would shoot.

One thing I would like to throw in, not for OP obviously but in general. The X-T1 dials and controls are quite foreign if you are a Canikon shooter, so while missing a metering dial, you get that PASM dial on the X-T10 which can be good if you are one to feel lost without it.

Quick thingy if you aren't aware of it, the RAW shoot can only go to ISO 6400, you need to have some form of Jpeg output to get H1/H2.

Fuji X-T1 with my all trusty 18-135 and a small guest star on my back.

Well the A7S isn't really good at "fast" moving subject, a lot things were sacrificed to the low light capability, image resolution being one and auto focus speed being the second. In really dark conditions it's second to none but that's certainly not a body I would take for "generic" shooting, specially not kids. Heck, with my active son even the 35mm prime on X-T1 has focusing speed issues, a lot of time he is blurry if you look closely.