darknj

The 35mm is part of the first X lenses that got released, so yes its age is showing nowadays. As for the AF speed, if you are on spot focus, it doesn't change anything at all, you have to be in the zone focus, I find my compromise in the 3x3 zone. The hunting lowered to a lesser level but still present but compared to what it was before the FW 4.0 update, it is still a much welcomed improvement, let's hope that they will release a new lens FW for it later one.

Thank you for your reply, that helps me greatly with my decision! And I agree with you, that's the reason I still have my Nikon 1 system with almost all the current lenses.

To add to the conversation, considering how "young" the digital cameras are, it's pretty impossible to find a photographer that had a long career by shooting only digital. A couple of years ago I traveled to Hong-Kong and went to the FilMe shop, as you can guess they are pretty much the film specialist and I rented the Hasselblad Xpan with 35mm F4 lens, a roll of ISO800 film and spent the day in Hong Kong. I have to say that it was both a pleasant and frustrating time, I believe it was a lot due to the camera, it took piuctures directly in landscape format and it throws away all your general photography habits about composition. In overall, it was sort of fun to see how your photo would devlop but I still prefer digital and the X-T1 brings me what I want in automation but still retains full control over what I want.

My good sir, please allow me to tip my hat in your direction, it's not often to see any Nikon 1 part of a person's gear. Side question for the optional grip on your X-T1, would you think it is thicker than if you have the 27mm lens on or would you say it's about the same size ? I have been mulling around the idea of the optional grip since I do have the bulkier 18-135 lens on body 85% of the time.

Clearly the 10-24 and 35mm would be the two lenses of choice, although for Roma, I would take the 55-200, some places can be really crowed and it could be useful to be able to shoot above the crowd and zoom into your subject.

If you are unsure if you would like one and don't really feel like busting 70$ for one, Mamazon usually has some cheaper alternative that would give you an idea of its feel and maybe tilts the decision in one direction or the other.

Some drizzle would be fine, but even still, I do not think that 2 hours of continuous drizzle is going to spare the camera with no weather sealing, specially with interchangeable lenses, those fixed zoom lens or bridge camera have it a bit better since all the moving parts are sort of sealed from dust and fine particles.

Please accept my apologies, I misread your message and got confused about the conveyed information. As for the X-E1, I fully agree with you, it's a perfectly capable camera, I do miss the VF as I like to be able to take photos in relatively dark environment without flashing a lid LCD at the ppl behind me, but that has more to do with my upbringing than anything else.

The OP is looking for mostly rangefinders and there is only that many that fit the bill on the Fuji X line up bodies. All three of the X100/S/T and the X-Pro1. Later this year we might get the X70 and early next year X-Pro2. Considering he owns already the X100, and the changes between the X100 and the X100S are rather minimal, it kinda make sense, budget wise to lean toward the older X-Pro1, it is still a very capable camera and with the 27mm lens, you get almost the same deal as the X100 series, only you can swap lens out to fit your needs. Also, the X-Pro1 brings something new to the table compared to the three X100/S/T, which are in essence the same camera. The future X-70 could be something worth waiting for, at least until we get a bit more details about before taking a decision. Plus side, since the X-Pro2 is going to be released early next year, it will make the X-Pro1 price drop down. On your example, the X-E1 with ANY glass would either close or over the 1000€, when you know that there are nice combo kits for X-Pro1, I saw a deal for a X-Pro1 with 18mm and 27mm for 999€ the other day and they even added a leather carrying case with it. It's hard to still go for the X-E1 even for just the body.

Such a lens could be wanted but I really do not think that the 18-135 is a slouch when comes to focusing speed, specially not since the new FW 4.0 update. True, I would have loved if it was 16-xxx but most of the time, I can just take 2 steps back and emulate the missing 2mm on the lens. All in all, such a lens could be nice but it would be second lens in the line up that will be full on compromises.

Weird... I was pretty sure that there was a PASM dial on the X-T10 on a picture I saw... Well I stand corrected but that do makes me wonder how that information got inserted into my brain to begin with...

Yes pretty much. Well they had to put something for the X-T10 only. In all honesty, if I didn't needed the Weather Sealing for my trips to tropical countries, I would have went for the X-T10, the learning curve would have been easier with the PASM dial.

I got myself 2 Patona batteries, they are both working good but I do have a slight issue with one of them, it seems to retains the charge less well, worked around that by using it as my day to day battery, I just need to charge it more often. One nice thing that came with the Patonas is the super traveler friendly charger, it has a micro USB A slot, regular USB slot, one dual prong AC charger slot and comes with all cables including a car lighter cable.

Budget wise, I will also advise the X-Pro1 or if you can wait a bit for the X-70 that will be released later this year. From the little time I had it in my hands, the X-Pro1 is a camera that makes you slow down, taking the time to compose your shot and think a bit about your light. The oldie look has is flavorful eye candy and the camera handling is rather nice. The AF is indeed slower than the X-T1 from before the FW 4.0 update even when using fast lens like the 35mm. Although I really disliked the View Finder, it's not going enough in one direction or too much in the other, I prefer either full OVF or EVF, the middle ground thing didn't worked for me.

There is a slight misunderstanding here, what I meant was the ability to quickly change the ISO dial setting without having to press down the button to be able to rotate it. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Question to everyone who had those Lolumina shutter button installed, are they really any kind of improvement ? Or is just a form a embellishment of your camera ? The reasoning behind that question is because I have been pondering about getting one myself I was weighting if there was any real impact on the stability in low light or just go silly with a fancy color on it.

You are right, it's not THAT expensive but the question is rather, can you afford the time without your lens. Please allow me to elaborate, if you are shooting in a remote location and for whatever reasons you scratch badly the front of your lens, can you really afford the time to have it sent back to repair and miss the schedule for your shooting ? True you might have another lens with you, but when you envisioned your shooting, you had already begun to see what angle and focal length you wanted to use and because of the scratch you can no longer use the primary lens you wanted. Another scenario, you are on vacation on a place you haven't been before and same thing happens, you scratch the front element of your lens, can you afford to spend time and or money for an express repair ? On both cases, I can just ditch the filter out and either use another reserve one that I might have brought with me, or continue without one until I can find a shop for it. A lot of use have backup bodies, but I hardly know anyone with backup lens, one might have something relatively closer and make do but it is still not what you had in your mind when you packed your gear. So again for me, filters aren't a necessity but I still consider them a small form of insurance for my front elements, thus why I always buy crystal clear filters, they are cheap enough for me not to care if I break them.

I do not think these presets made their way to the X-T1, the X-T10 is a "prosumer" camera while the the X-T1 is supposed for "pro". In a software design sense, it would be natural for the X-T10 to have them and not the X-T1. Another thing, is the X-T1 doesn't have have an Auto mode, yes I know about the put ISO, speed and aperture to A but that hardly counts as an auto mode like on most point and shoots.

Didn't do much on mine. Being asian, I got smaller hands making pretty much all the button easily accessible for me. I did went to get the optional eye cup and got a glass protector for the back LCD screen. But something I am currently considering, is to find a way to block the ISO button down, in a semi permanent way, if anyone has information on that part, it would be greatly appreciated.

I assume that Henri Cartier-Bresson is just a button presser who didn't knew enough about street photography because he shot at 50mm... Look mate, I am not here to start an argument about who's right or wrong, I came here to provide my point of view, which you disagree with and that's perfectly fine with me. Now for the sake of moving forward in this thread, can we agree that we disagree ?

IQ is not the main priority, for me it was the size of the lens. IQ was the deciding point that tiped the scale toward the 27mm instead of the 18mm. It is not because the IQ is not important for you that it is not important for the next person. I like the 27mm for it's size and price and one day I decide that I really prefer the view from the 18mm, I will go get the prime, the 27mm is hardly a waste on any case and I love being able to just walk out with a coat and my X-T1 with the 27mm in my pocket and not feeling bothered by the lens. Actually the optional eyecup is more annoying than the lens itself... Also, it's not because it's popular that we have to get it, if we shots based on gear popularity the photography world would be super boring. The focal length is based on each person's sensivity, you might think that 27mm is too thight, I find it just wide enough for how I shoot. For you streets need to be shot wide, I like thighter framing, that's all. If you have a blast with the 18mm, by the gods, please do enjoy it to the fullest, who are we to tell you how to enjoy your fun times ? Photography is a matter of personal preferences and you see the world around you or you can make other see it differently than usually.

Is the 27mm much better, no, but it is better. Also, it's a general known thing that primes are to be better than zoom kits. As for the 27mm vs 18mm, it's about 2/3 of the weight of the 18mm and 1 cm smaller, if you want something small with your camera, the 27mm is still the current smallest XF lens available to us. I can only speak for myself, I wanted the smallest lens for streets and the 27mm fit the bill, I considered the 18mm but because of the small loss in quality compared to the zoom kit, I picked the 27mm out and got the 35mm along side. Do I consider the 18mm to be a bad lens ? Hardly, it's a very capable lens, just not good enough for my personal preferences. For a lot of X shooters the street combo is still the 18, 27 and 35, some might swap the 27 for the 23 but again, to each their own. Street photopgraphy is about taking picture of subjects in the streets, what you use to achieve that end depends purely on your style. I know ppl with telezoom lenses doing the streets, they get more candid shots than I can when I walk up to the subjects because they are so far away the subject hardly notice them. I have even seen ppl doing street with the 23mm, which is certainly not small but they still pulled it out.

That bad, not really. It is still a good lens, the issue is actually the other way around, it's the 18-55mm kit that's way too stellar at 18mm wide open. It is so good wide open that one must wonder why would you need to buy the prime while the zoom kit is better at that same focal length. Straight crop from the focus point, both lenses are equally good, but when you look at the corners, you notice the zoom kit retaining more details and is a tad bit sharper, the distoring is almost none existing on the zoom, while you can detect it faintly on the corners of the 18mm. The zoom kit also focus faster with less pumping. The 18mm being at F2 and the zoom kit at F2.8 there isn't a full stop in between so the low light capabilities are roughly the same, the small difference can be compensated by the OIS in the zoomkit. Bokeh wise, there is hardly any differences, both blurs out the background nicely This makes the 18mm, while being small, but as much as the 27mm and not that much better when compared to the 18-55mm, why would you want to buy the prime ? Keep the zoom kit that came with your camera and use it wide open at 18mm and if some reasons you see something that needs more range, you can just zoom in instead of swap lens and miss the shot. On the cons side, the zoom kit is herftier and larger, but it most likely came with your camera so you don't need to buy anything else to enjoy the same quality as the prime. Only exception is if you got the 18-135mm, then the 18mm prime could make sense as a purchase. But as I said earlier, I see no point in buying a prime that performs less well than a zoom kit, I prefer to wait for the second iteration of that lens and just enjoy shooting at 27mm and 35mm for streets and the 18-135mm for when I have no freaking clue as on what I would encounter or a family travels. One side note, if you shoot "macro" often, the 18mm wins all over, the minimal focus distance is much shorter on the prime (18cm) than the zoom kit (30cm).

Don't forget that until the end of July you can get cash back for your XF lenses, depending on where you are living, the deal could be quite good. Second point, the XF lenses are good enough to be reliably purchased second handed, evilBay have them pop up on semi regular basis, just need to be on the look-out. I think there was a great deal for one from CameraLand not so long ago.

This FW update is quite a major one, a lot of thing can toss the AF away, Face Dectection feature being one since it forces the camera to use the Contrast Detection instead of the Phase. Personnally I haven't seen any upgrade on Single Point AF with my 35mm the new AF-S zone focus is really the star here, although my 18-135 got more sensitive, even on Single Point specially in difficult light conditions. The camera by itself was already good, these new FWs made it even better but at the same time a lot of things can be affecting so many others (MS for zone tracking, Face Dectection for Phase Detection AF,...) it can be rather difficult for one to remember all the settings and small details about what needs to be set how for that thingy there to work just like everbody else. I was lost for a bit of time when my camera got updated, it was a good thing for this forum and the beta leak as it helped out a lot for me to sort things out and already know where some of these settings are located and make a semblance of sense out of them.