dfaye

Hi Sherman, when using Auto ISO I'd recommend setting at least the aperture yourself. For example, for the kind of quick snapshots you describe, I'd have the aperture set on, say, f8. The camera should then be able to choose a sensible shutter speed and ISO. If you expect the camera to choose ALL the exposure variables - aperture, shutter speed and ISO - it has quite a lot of options to choose from, and the camera's algorithms will tend to prioritise shutter speed, as you describe. I find that the X100F works best, and fastest, if you set at least one exposure variable yourself - and it's fun to play around to see what works best for your style of photography. But you've got a great camera there. Enjoy!

That looks good to me! Thanks. I'm certainly going to be keeping this lens in mind.

I have just tried my 100-400 with 2x teleconverter on my XT2 with the new firmware. It works, though (as you might expect) focus is a bit slow, certainly slower than the 50-140 with 2x converter. I'm afraid I can't comment on whether or not there's a difference in performance after the new XT2 firmware, as I don't normally use the 2x converter on the 100-400 (and after this little experiment I think I'll continue to leave it off, except in exceptional circumstances).

I agree totally. Those apparently small details make all the difference for me, too. I tried hard to love my 100S/T. Now I'm so glad I upgraded to the 100F - a perfect companion for my XPro2.

Yes, works on Custom screen only. I agree: good to be able to change to a screen free of blinkies sometimes!

Will be really interested to hear your views on the Meike when you get it, rrrrrichard. It looks to be a good size and weight for field macro, and reviews so far are good. I currently use the Zeiss Touit 50mm: a great little lens, but I find myself having to get nose to nose with the bugs on the forest floor in order to get anywhere near 1:1 macro with it. I also have the wonderfully versatile 90mm: was going to trade it in for the 80mm macro, but I don't think I can bear to get rid of it. So, hard decisions...

I thought that at first, but after I'd turned the camera off and on again and cycled through the display screens a couple of times, I found that the blinkies were working on the LCD as well as the EVF. Maybe it just takes the camera a little while to register the change. Anyhow, it's a great addition!

It sounds like the sticky aperture blade problem that affected some of the earlier X100 models. There are several YouTube videos, for example and also other discussion online, if you Google "Fuji X100 sticky aperture blade problem". If this is the answer, your camera would have to go back to Fuji for repair (but I think it's a fairly simple repair). Good luck!

An interesting discussion. As a general comment, I've noticed that the camera's AF (XT2/XPro2, and my previous XT1/Pro1) is easily fooled into "thinking" it has achieved the correct focus when actually it hasn't. The AF works best if the focus point is on something that presents clear contrast or an obvious line/edge (sometimes easier said than done). Otherwise, I find the AF can be a bit approximate, and I need to do some manual tweaking. In the case of small, distant objects I find that atmospheric effects such as heat haze or pollution can impede the AF. I don't think these problems are specific to the 18-135, but it may well be that the 18-135 is more easily "fooled" than some others. For example, my 56 f1.2 will spend a while hunting for focus in challenging conditions (and may or may not get it right first time), whereas my 18-135 will quickly snap into focus - but not always the right focus. I've learned to love the manual override! Again, as a very general comment, I find the newer f2 range of lenses (90, 50, 35, 23) are pretty good for focusing speed and accuracy. If I'm photographing my hairy dogs (low contrast, no sharp edges) I stand a better AF chance with one of these!

Just to add to the two previous answers: you can add this setting ("Preview Exp/WB in Manual Mode") either to a function button or to the My Menu settings, which gives you the ability to quickly activate/deactivate. It's great to have this switch-setting available for flash, but It's also really useful for any kind of low-light photography.

Yes - has happened to me too, and I think it's a common problem, given that the default settings put WB on that right-hand button. I've simply switched the WB and the Film Simulation functions on the D-pad, so the WB is now on the left. If I accidentally trigger the Film Simulation screen, nothing further happens.

Hi Pedro, Have you checked to make sure the electronic shutter (or manual+electronic) isn't set for the X-T20? Flash works only with the mechanical shutter. You can use a Canon flash with Fuji X-series as a manual flash, but if you're using it in the hotshoe you MUST block off all the contacts except the central one (you can buy an adapter to do this), otherwise you could damage the camera. The reason for this is that although the layout of the flash contacts is the same for Canon and Fuji, Canon uses a different flash protocol and apparently this confuses the electronic circuitry on the Fuji (sorry for the non-technical language!). The safest option is to use the Canon flash off-camera with a remote trigger. Good luck!

Have you accidentally changed the Auto WB calibration by moving the point to the magenta side of the grid (on the WB Shift screen)? Really easy to do without realising when you have WB assigned to a function button.

Hi Alex, No you're not missing anything. At the moment the Fuji custom settings have only a limited range of features which, as you note, are applicable to JPEG only. Like you, I miss the Canon custom settings, but I guess the problem with the XT range of cameras is that so many of the basic settings are set by the various external wheels: custom settings of the Canon type would have to be able to overrule the wheel settings, and maybe that's problematical. Perhaps we might hope for some improved custom settings on the XPro range, though?

Same here: no markings on my 18/f2 or my 35/f1.4 (both 2012 vintage).

Hi Tug, I had this popping/crackling when using a Fuji EF-X500 flashgun with an off-camera shoe cord (the recommended Canon-compatible type). It was indeed shorting out, and the flash became useless. The problem seemed to be a slight mismatch between the connections, because the flash had previously worked fine in the camera hotshoe. My guess is that your Nissin i40's contacts don't quite line up with those in the camera hotshoe, and I'd be worried about continuing to use it there - but I'm no expert! You could test it with a Canon off-camera shoe cord to see if the problem goes away with a different set of hotshoe contacts; if it does, then a mismatch with the XT-2 hotshoe is likely to be your problem. Incidentally, Fuji recommends that you should always turn on the flash before turning on the camera. I don't know if that makes a difference to the crackling? Good luck, anyway.

Thanks, Larry, that's really interesting!

Hi kjgraff, the process you describe is exactly the same as I use on my iMac, and as is recommended by Fuji, so I don't think your problem is there. Have you checked to make sure that there's not a similarly-named file already in your Downloads folder (or Desktop, whichever your default folder is for downloads)? If there is, the computer will have changed the filename by adding _2 etc, and the camera will be unable to read it. Alternatively, I guess there could be a problem with the card.

Thanks for that, Peter. I guess this is a more general problem for mirrorless as compared with DSLR. But does anyone out there know how Fuji battery life compares with other leading mirrorless brands? Is Fuji particularly bad for battery life, even amongst mirrorless?

Thanks for sharing, Adam. What a great tribute to someone who was clearly a wonderful man. Inspirational to read it - but so sorry for your loss. Take care of yourself.

Interesting information, Dwight, and I'm glad you're getting it fixed, but I'm sorry you're having to pay $212 for the repair: seriously, how complicated can it be to replace a hot shoe? Also, I'm wondering if this is a more general problem with X-Pro2s. I think that even though there's something slightly off with the hot shoe on mine, I'm going to hold off from sending it in, given that everything works perfectly on it except the Fuji X500 (!).

You could download Adobe's free DNG converter: convert your Fuji RAW files to DNG and then import them into Lightroom.

You could try moulding some Sugru round the switch; it's pretty robust so might withstand the use. The trouble is, it would make the switch stick out/up more, so it would be easier to turn the camera on inadvertently. I find the main problem with the X100 series is the shallow handgrip - so easy to flip the switch without noticing.

Hi Dwight, I have a limited version of this problem with my X-Pro2: when I use my Fuji EF-X500 flash in the hot shoe it often loses TTL connection and reverts to Manual (and sometimes loses connection altogether). Fuji have checked the flash and confirmed that it is ok, and it works fine on my X-T2 and on several other Fuji cameras belonging to friends. So it does look like a problem with the X-Pro2 hot shoe. The strange thing is, my other Fuji flashes (EF-X20 and the little EF-X8) are absolutely fine with TTL on the X-Pro2, as is my Godox TT350 and my Canon off-camera flash cords. (So, if I want to use the EF-X500 in TTL mode with the X-Pro2, I have to use a Canon flash cord.) I guess I should have the X-Pro2 checked by Fuji, but since the problem is confined to the X500 and since I mostly use my flashes off-camera in Manual mode with Yongnuo triggers, it seems hardly worth the hassle and expense. I will however be very interested to see other responses to your post - it would be good to get this sorted out.

I find it simpler to keep the 560-TX off-camera to control the flash settings, and put an RF-603 trigger on the camera to trigger the flash. This way, it's much easier - especially in low light - to adjust the flash settings on the 560-TX, and the RF-603 is much less cumbersome in the hotshoe. This should eliminate the problems described above, and a set of RF-603 triggers is fairly cheap. Just a thought.