dfaye

Yes, this is apparently quite normal for this lens; if you move it gently you can hear something moving inside it. As Sluw says, it's the type of autofocus motor that is used on this particular lens.

Sadly, Fuji seem to have abandoned this feature on the latest bodies. I remember it from (I think) the original X100 and the X-E1. I rather liked the blue option.

The max shutter speed for the mechanical shutter is 1/1000 when wide open at f2. At f2.8 it is around 1/1250. To get the full range of shutter speeds up to 1/4000 you need to stop down to around f5.6. This is a limitation of the leaf shutter type: essentially, it needs longer than 1/1000 sec to open fully to the widest aperture (but there are better explanations online!) The solution, for shooting wide open with the mechanical shutter in bright light, is to use the built-in ND filter. (Alternatively, use the electronic shutter.) I remember that the manual for the original x100 noted this limitation but, as far as I can see, there is no mention of it at all in the manual for the X100F - which must be causing a fair bit of confusion amongst those who've not previously owned an X100 series camera.

They are currently available from Ex Pro via Amazon UK (search for Ex Pro dual charger plate pack). They look as though they're the right ones.

Another vote for the Ex-Pro Dual LCD Mains Charger (bought on Amazon UK). I've been using it for over a year and find it very good. Although I try to use only Fuji batteries, I have several of the "yellow" Patona batteries as spares (also available on Amazon UK), and have never had any problems with them.

Hi Robrac, Photometry is the metering mode - that is, multi, centre-weighted, spot, or average. AF Mode is the way the autofocus works - that is, single point, zone, or wide tracking. (And yes, I still get confused by the term photometry, even though I've been with Fuji since the original X100!).

Radio triggers introduce a slight flash sync delay - a few milliseconds between the signal being transmitted and being received. I find it's safest to set the sync speed on my XT2 to a max of 1/200 with my Yongnuo triggers, otherwise I often experience the darkening you describe. (As to why the results vary, I guess a range of other factors come into play as well, and maybe others can describe this better.)

Hi again. Just to clarify on your point 1 - although I think others have already done so: the EF-X8 in the hotshoe can be used in TTL mode while at the same time triggering a remote X500 (and yes, this should be set to P mode because the EF-X8 used in TTL mode is giving a pre-flash). However, the remote X500 will not have TTL control. Sadly, the only way at present that you can have TTL control in a remote X500 is by putting another X500 in the hotshoe. Come on, Fuji: you'd sell a lot more of these (even with the outdated optical system) if you'd give us a remote controller.

Hi Lee, Yes, just to confirm what you say in your second post: the only way (at present) that you can have TTL function in a remote X500 is to put a second X500 in the hotshoe as a commander unit: a rather expensive option! However I find that the little EF-X8 that comes with the XT-1/X-T2 works well as a simple commander. The remote X500 is switched to the Remote setting; if the EF-X8 master in the camera hotshoe is set to Commander or Manual, then the remote X500 must be in N mode. If the EF-X8 in the hotshoe is being used in TTL mode, the remote X500 must be in P mode. But I find it altogether simpler to use a set of cheap Yongnuo radio triggers, in which case the remote X500 is switched to the simple On setting (NOT Remote - that's for the optical (IR) triggering) and is of course in Manual mode. I do like the X500, though: apart from its lack of a radio triggering system, I think it's a well-specified flash and easy to use.

Fuji's metal lens hood LH-XF35-2, originally designed for the 35mm f2, works well on the 23mm f2, and looks good, too. (And I see that Fuji are now marketing it as suitable for both the 23 and the 35mm f2 lenses.) Downside is, it's expensive.

I bought this on Amazon UK and am so far very pleased with it: pack of 2x BROTECT HD-Clear screen protector film for Fujifilm X70. It fits perfectly, is easy to apply, doesn't interfere with the functioning of the touch-screen, is crystal clear and seems to be pretty good quality. It currently costs £2.99 with free UK postage (comes from Germany).

Yes, you have to be in jpeg ONLY to get the full range of bracketing drive modes. I can understand them not being available when shooting RAW-only, but it's a bit annoying if you shoot RAW+jpeg.

I've had this happen twice with these triggers (RF-603CII). On the first occasion I discovered that I'd accidentally changed the channel setting when I changed the batteries. On the second occasion (and I sometimes still do this!) I hadn't fully pushed the transmitter into the camera's hotshoe (it's deceptive: you think it's fully inserted, but it needs an extra push for the last few millimetres). Apologies if you've already checked all this!

I suspect that you DO need to buy the Canon model, EttVenter. The instruction book for the YN560-TX has diagrams of the contacts on the Canon and Nikon models, showing clearly the different configuration of pins on each. It then says: "When this controller is used for non-dedicated cameras, it won't support waking the flash up from the camera, and the triggering function will be unrestricted." I take this as meaning that if, for example, you put a Nikon model on a Canon (or Fuji) camera, it will act as a simple triggering device without giving you the various control functions like flash power, zoom etc. Nor will it wake the remote flash up from sleep when the camera shutter is half depressed. Best go for the Canon model. (I'm very pleased with mine, which I'm using on the X-T1 and X100T with a couple of YN-560III flashes.)